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Do you use detail clay? (If not, why you should.)

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Old 01-24-2022, 02:22 PM
  #46  
cbredesen
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Originally Posted by Mike in CA
So, have you ever used detail clay on your car? If not, maybe you should; you might be very pleasantly surprised by the results.
I do not do any protectant/sealant without clay first. It is a game changer especially for vehicles a few years old. When I was younger I never understood why even with fastidious maintenance, my car's paint would get gritty and not smooth over time. CLAY is a big part of resolving that. Also a clayed surface becomes that much easier to wax, polish or protect.

I have used a reusable clay mitt for the last few years and find it as good as actual clay without the danger of dropping it or having to replace it every couple uses. The end result is the same though I do have a wad of clay for harder to reach places that might need repair (crevices, folds, etc).

In short, yes. Spread the Good News. Hear the word. Enjoy amazing smooth paint.
Old 01-24-2022, 03:12 PM
  #47  
fourthirteen
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I always figured clay was a gimmick until I read this thread, but you all have convinced me otherwise so I just now ordered a bar/lube.
Old 01-24-2022, 03:30 PM
  #48  
cbredesen
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Originally Posted by fourthirteen
I always figured clay was a gimmick until I read this thread, but you all have convinced me otherwise so I just now ordered a bar/lube.
You're in for a real treat unless your paint is absolutely pristine. Things adhere to it and get embedded in it. Clay fixes almost all of that (polishing the rest, if needed). Make sure you don't drop it and if you do, it must be discarded. Once it hits the ground, you've created a 50 grit sanding block.
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Old 01-24-2022, 03:53 PM
  #49  
850tgul
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Originally Posted by fourthirteen
I always figured clay was a gimmick until I read this thread, but you all have convinced me otherwise so I just now ordered a bar/lube.
A fun test is to put your hand inside plastic bag and run your fingertips over the paint. Even if you think you have clean paint, the amount of contaminants embedded in your paint that you will now feel will be eye opening. As mentioned above, clay is a vital step in any serious paint correction.
It is step 2 in my process, right after a de-con wash.

Last edited by 850tgul; 01-24-2022 at 05:46 PM.
Old 01-24-2022, 04:24 PM
  #50  
Bruce In Philly
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2009 C2S 178K miles

I don't use clay and did damage to my Boxster with it. Never again. You are literally wet sanding your car. They are roughly 5000 grit but will differ. Yes, I am in the minority in the car world but I think it is not only unnesscary, there are easier and safer ways to get a glass finish. Clay is not a gimmick, it was invented to remove overspray at paint shops.... how it got into the car care world is a mystery to me.

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Last edited by Bruce In Philly; 01-24-2022 at 04:28 PM.
Old 01-24-2022, 05:11 PM
  #51  
Esoteric_Detail
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Originally Posted by Bruce In Philly
2009 C2S 178K miles

I don't use clay and did damage to my Boxster with it. Never again. You are literally wet sanding your car. They are roughly 5000 grit but will differ. Yes, I am in the minority in the car world but I think it is not only unnesscary, there are easier and safer ways to get a glass finish. Clay is not a gimmick, it was invented to remove overspray at paint shops.... how it got into the car care world is a mystery to me.

https://rennlist.com/forums/997-foru...ather-dye.html

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Bruce in Philly (now Atlanta)
Indeed...clay is an abrasive. It certainly has a place in the decontamination process but only if polishing after using it.

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Old 01-25-2022, 02:03 AM
  #52  
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Everything that touches the paint mars it in some way, just like every time we start our cars some metal is shed. It’s not something you do every week, but for when some stuff is embedded in the paint, I haven’t found a better alternative including chemical washes. These can do wonders on iron residue from brakes, but not all contaminants are iron (the residue from DFI motors on the back bumper, for example). Used properly, I have not noticed undue hazing or swirls using clay. Maybe under a microscope you can see it, but if I can’t see any swirls or they are so minor a coat of wax fills them until the next every couple years’ polish, that’s good enough for me.

Last edited by jayzbird; 01-25-2022 at 02:05 AM.
Old 01-25-2022, 08:53 AM
  #53  
63mercedes
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Any of those guys who your paying a couple grand (professional paint correction) are not going to wash a car, clay it, and then wash it again before they start to polish. They're not gonna add another wash and dry to an already 12-20 plus hour job. What would you wash off? The lubricant gets absorbed in the waffel towel leaving a prepared surface for step 3.

Anyone whos clayed a car knows with their eyes and feel its ready for polish as soon as your wiping off the lubricant you used. Smooth as glass and clean.

Thats's the point any bonded contaminants left after washing get picked up in the clay. I've been using it forever I've never once washed after clay. If the clay does give you some light scratches it doesn't matter the next step is polish but there's nothing to wash off. If the clay streaks you need more lube. The rubber mitts work good for lighter stuff.

I've even had great results washing the car, rinsing, then taking a rubber mitt to it white still wet and then rinsing and drying as usual. It's even possible to combine the steps. It's a ton of work. If you want it perfect you start with light non metallic cars lol.

The best clay I found is the meguiars aggressive and mild pro line. Our rule was if you accidentally drop it, its trashed. Or after 2-3 nasty cars you pitch it. Garage kept porsches with regular washing...clay lasts a long time.

And the main thing is, clay is to prep a surface to hold wax not remove scartches and water spots. I still occasionally put a drop of scratchX on a microfiber and use my finger.







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