NAM VET

Like others, I am amazed at how quickly rotors on my 997 and other cars rust when washing them. Before I can even get my cars dried off, they already have red streaks on the rotors, almost like the "rusticles" on pictures of the Titanic wreck. A freshly cut apple slice doesn't "rust" as fast as iron rotors. I find the drilled rotor holes hold a lot of brake dust, so resort to blasting the holes with water to rinse them out too. To keep from sticking the pads to the rotors after parking, i back up and down the driveway a few times. Hadn't thought about the leaf blower thing, think I'll give that a try. Griot's has a sort of blowing vaccum cleaner for this problem, too.

As for comments and replies, after a dozen+ years on various forums, I have found posters need to have a bit of a thick hide when reading some replies. No matter if the forum is automotive, firearms, watches, or charcoal grills, sometimes you just have to ignore some comments.

When i can figure out how to become a paying member, I'll sign up and be more legit. I can barely use a cell phone.

all the best from Sunny Upstate SC....

billh1963

Go to the "premium membership" link on the gray bar.....it's beside the "log out" link

Dartmouth

Too many viewers - this post got out of hand. Your right, I'd be eaten alive here. I'll weigh my questions more carefully before posting here again.

_Nathan

I never thought of using a leaf blower but that's a good idea. I usually just go for a short drive after washing to dry the rotors but that always causes black stuff (water + brake dust) to sling out from the rotors onto the insides of the wheels that I just washed, which then need to be cleaned again.

9elf S

Same concept as a leaf blower, but I prefer using an air compressor with the attachment you often see car washes use (have no idea what it's called). You get the added benefit of blowing water out of tight seams and inflating your tires.

NA011

This won't help the two outsides of the rotors but it sure keeps the inside (vented) of the rotor from bleeding down the rusty water. Spray the inside of the rotor the best you can w/ Loctite® Extend Rust Neutralizer ( http://www.loctiteproducts.com/p/7/2...izer-Spray.htm ). Start spraying the edge of the rotor while you rotate the rotor. After washing use your leaf blower. Mask the outside of the rotors or after your treatment drive w/ your foot on the brake to burn off the overspray that may be on the outside of the rotor surface.

mdrums

About the leaf blower deal......I use a leaf blower too....be sure you use an electric blower or if you have to have gas be sure the blower DOES NOT vent the engine exhaust into the blower's air stream like most of them do. You don't want to blow 2cycle exhaust all over your car. I use a $100 battery pack leaf blower. I dry the car with an Absorber and get what else I can on the wheels and door jambs with a towel then I use a battery powered leaf blower to know off the water on the wheels and in all the crevis. My rotors rust up some but the next day when I drive the car the 1st application of brakes knocks off the micro layer of rust.

utkinpol

all my garden tools are electric but i went with corded ones 5 years ago and do not want to change. 100ft cord is enough to get everywhere and you do not have to care about stupid batteries anymore. makes life easier.

vexed

Does anyone have a specific recommendation for a leaf blower? I have been thinking about it for a while, it's the water in the crevices that gets me.

Domer911

I have yet to do this, but after reading this thread, I have to go with the poster who suggested using an air compressor. The effect is the same, and I happen to have a new one in my garage, with all the attachments. The attachment he couldn't name is cone-shaped, and made out of rubber, so you won't inadvertently scratch anything with it. Excellent idea!

mal28

http://www.worxtools.com/US/18V_ni-c...AIR-P1308.aspx


light weight, good battery life, downside: not that poweful, but vey useful

Zeus993

Leaf blowers? Forget about it. I'd take it as a official extra reason to drive the car post wash good and hard. Does it get any better than that?

NAM VET

OK, since i can't start an original post, here is my problem. I have set up a Pay Pal account, so I can become a paying member on this site. I can log into it fine. Then, I log into this forum, click Premium Member, click on the two (or one) year payment, click on payment by Pay Pal, then the next page says "sorry", check your email...

I have set up my security questions, can can log into Pay Pal. Is there some secret handshake to actually pay to become a supporting member here? I have no confirmatory emails, if i am supposed to get one.

Anyway, before someone "eats me alive", for participating for free, I am at least trying to pay my way. If a moderator can privately email some advice, I would appreciate it.

All the best....

simsgw

I suppose weighing a question is never a bad idea, but seriously, don't take the rough answers so seriously.

Personally, I found it interesting to read the answers from others who care. Many decades ago, we would dry and polish our rotors by hand after washing. Once, in frustration, I even removed the wheels to reach the rotors better before an event where I really wanted our MG to look pristine. Now... well, my initial response was "Hmmm. A Porsche is worth caring. Wonder how the detailer does that?"

Then I read some answers and noticed the one about the car that couldn't be moved. After each detail, ours does that. I have been assuming it was the tire blacking compound sticking the tires to the garage floor. Now I wonder.

Sometimes the simplest questions make the most entertaining threads. And there's always something new to learn about a Porsche.

Gary

niner niner seven

HILARIOUSNESS