Hardwire DIY: Escort Redline RADAR Detector
04-04-2011, 03:09 AM
#1
Drifting
Thread Starter
Hardwire DIY: Escort Redline RADAR Detector
Mission: install the hardwire kit from Escort and eliminate the ackward bungy cord connecting the RADAR detector to the lighter socket in the ash tray.
Estimated Time: 30-45mins... add 30mins for the write up
Results: cleaner looking interior, less visual and physical obstruction. Found my wife holding the bungy cord to the side so that my shifting would not hit it. Annoying...
Before the job
Attachment 525469
End Result
Attachment 525468
Parts:Redline RADAR detector with bungy style power cord
[Attachment 525470
New hardwire kit from Escort
Attachment 525467
Note that this looks to be a simple RJ-45 connector with a ground and a hot 12v line.
Tools Required: thumb nail, phillips screw driver, and sand paper.
Instructions:
Step 1 - start by removing the sliding roof/cabin light console so that you may tap into a 12v wire.
a. Remove the two homelink buttons. I used my thumb nail to get under these buttons and pot them out. They are held in place via small tabs towards the front of the vehicle. Attachment 525471Attachment 525472
b. Pop the underlining homelink button circuit board module off using your thumb nail... no need to disconnect their electrical connectors as you will be able to get to the two screws (1 under each module) now.
Attachment 525482
c. Remove the two screws under the homelink circuit board modules with a phillips screw driver.
d. Now you can pull down on the rearward most part of the console. It is held there by two tabs.
Attachment 525473
These attach to the metal catches in the headliner.
Attachment 525474
Push the console towards the front of the car and it should come off. Note the wiring harenesses will continue to hold the console up.
Step 2 - Now we can connect the hardwire lines.
a. I attached the ground wire to metal bracket which is where we removed the screw from in step 1c. Note that I had to sand back a bit of paint to create a good contact point...
Attachment 525476
looks fine afterwards as the metal bracket covers up the sanded part.
Attachment 525477
b. Feed the excess wire and fuse holder into the right side under the headliner.Attachment 525478
c. Now you can connect the 12v line to a live wire. Don't make the mistake I did initially. I spliced into a 12v line for the homelink buttons, however, it was too small and could not sustain the draw from the RADAR detector.
Attachment 525479
Instead use the thicker hot lines towards the front of the car which powers the light console.
Attachment 525480
The 12v line I spliced into was Brown and Blue... make sure you check the voltage before splicing into any lines.
Step 3 - Test the RADAR detector
a. Seems an obvious step but don't close things up until you've successfully tested the RADAR detector out. As I mentioned in step 2c... some 12v lines will not support the draw from the RADAR detector so it is not good enough to just find a live wire.
b. Make sure you test the RADAR with the ignition key out, in, and engine turned on to ensure proper function throughout all conditions. Note that I could only find a permanently line 12v line so I have to actively turn off the RADAR detector so that it does not drain the battery even though the ignition key is out. Some vehicles like our Toyotal Tundra have a towing package and the light console has a 12v lines which only tursn on when the ignition key is turned on... I prefer this as it lets me get away without having to actively turn on/off the detector.
Step 4 - reverse the process of removing the light/sliding roof console.
Step 5 - Be patient... allocate 2 hrs so you don't rush the job. Looks easy enough but I had to do a bit of troubleshooting to figure out the 12v draw issue. Hope this helps and "enjoy the ride."
Attachment 525481
Estimated Time: 30-45mins... add 30mins for the write up
Results: cleaner looking interior, less visual and physical obstruction. Found my wife holding the bungy cord to the side so that my shifting would not hit it. Annoying...
Before the job
Attachment 525469
End Result
Attachment 525468
Parts:Redline RADAR detector with bungy style power cord
[Attachment 525470
New hardwire kit from Escort
Attachment 525467
Note that this looks to be a simple RJ-45 connector with a ground and a hot 12v line.
Tools Required: thumb nail, phillips screw driver, and sand paper.
Instructions:
Step 1 - start by removing the sliding roof/cabin light console so that you may tap into a 12v wire.
a. Remove the two homelink buttons. I used my thumb nail to get under these buttons and pot them out. They are held in place via small tabs towards the front of the vehicle. Attachment 525471Attachment 525472
b. Pop the underlining homelink button circuit board module off using your thumb nail... no need to disconnect their electrical connectors as you will be able to get to the two screws (1 under each module) now.
Attachment 525482
c. Remove the two screws under the homelink circuit board modules with a phillips screw driver.
d. Now you can pull down on the rearward most part of the console. It is held there by two tabs.
Attachment 525473
These attach to the metal catches in the headliner.
Attachment 525474
Push the console towards the front of the car and it should come off. Note the wiring harenesses will continue to hold the console up.
Step 2 - Now we can connect the hardwire lines.
a. I attached the ground wire to metal bracket which is where we removed the screw from in step 1c. Note that I had to sand back a bit of paint to create a good contact point...
Attachment 525476
looks fine afterwards as the metal bracket covers up the sanded part.
Attachment 525477
b. Feed the excess wire and fuse holder into the right side under the headliner.Attachment 525478
c. Now you can connect the 12v line to a live wire. Don't make the mistake I did initially. I spliced into a 12v line for the homelink buttons, however, it was too small and could not sustain the draw from the RADAR detector.
Attachment 525479
Instead use the thicker hot lines towards the front of the car which powers the light console.
Attachment 525480
The 12v line I spliced into was Brown and Blue... make sure you check the voltage before splicing into any lines.
Step 3 - Test the RADAR detector
a. Seems an obvious step but don't close things up until you've successfully tested the RADAR detector out. As I mentioned in step 2c... some 12v lines will not support the draw from the RADAR detector so it is not good enough to just find a live wire.
b. Make sure you test the RADAR with the ignition key out, in, and engine turned on to ensure proper function throughout all conditions. Note that I could only find a permanently line 12v line so I have to actively turn off the RADAR detector so that it does not drain the battery even though the ignition key is out. Some vehicles like our Toyotal Tundra have a towing package and the light console has a 12v lines which only tursn on when the ignition key is turned on... I prefer this as it lets me get away without having to actively turn on/off the detector.
Step 4 - reverse the process of removing the light/sliding roof console.
Step 5 - Be patient... allocate 2 hrs so you don't rush the job. Looks easy enough but I had to do a bit of troubleshooting to figure out the 12v draw issue. Hope this helps and "enjoy the ride."
Attachment 525481
Last edited by USMC_DS1; 03-20-2012 at 03:34 AM.
04-04-2011, 03:23 AM
#2
Three Wheelin'
I like this method - no alterations to the car, and maybe a bit easier:
http://www.teamspeed.com/forums/997-...smartcord.html
http://www.teamspeed.com/forums/997-...smartcord.html
04-04-2011, 12:27 PM
#3
Drifting
Thread Starter
Ahh, yes... I did review that method and I liked how it leverages the existing fuse box for power... but I wanted to try something less visible... less routed wires to see under the headliner and A pillar. BTW, I leveraged the dome light removal method illustrated in the p-user's manual - emergency operation for closure of the sliding roof on p181 if anyone has an '08 C2S manual.
04-09-2014, 06:49 PM
#4
Mission: install the hardwire kit from Escort and eliminate the ackward bungy cord connecting the RADAR detector to the lighter socket in the ash tray.
Estimated Time: 30-45mins... add 30mins for the write up
Results: cleaner looking interior, less visual and physical obstruction. Found my wife holding the bungy cord to the side so that my shifting would not hit it. Annoying...
Before the job
Attachment 525469
End Result
Attachment 525468
Parts:Redline RADAR detector with bungy style power cord
[Attachment 525470
New hardwire kit from Escort
Attachment 525467
Note that this looks to be a simple RJ-45 connector with a ground and a hot 12v line.
Tools Required: thumb nail, phillips screw driver, and sand paper.
Instructions:
Step 1 - start by removing the sliding roof/cabin light console so that you may tap into a 12v wire.
a. Remove the two homelink buttons. I used my thumb nail to get under these buttons and pot them out. They are held in place via small tabs towards the front of the vehicle. Attachment 525471Attachment 525472
b. Pop the underlining homelink button circuit board module off using your thumb nail... no need to disconnect their electrical connectors as you will be able to get to the two screws (1 under each module) now.
Attachment 525482
c. Remove the two screws under the homelink circuit board modules with a phillips screw driver.
d. Now you can pull down on the rearward most part of the console. It is held there by two tabs.
Attachment 525473
These attach to the metal catches in the headliner.
Attachment 525474
Push the console towards the front of the car and it should come off. Note the wiring harenesses will continue to hold the console up.
Step 2 - Now we can connect the hardwire lines.
a. I attached the ground wire to metal bracket which is where we removed the screw from in step 1c. Note that I had to sand back a bit of paint to create a good contact point...
Attachment 525476
looks fine afterwards as the metal bracket covers up the sanded part.
Attachment 525477
b. Feed the excess wire and fuse holder into the right side under the headliner.Attachment 525478
c. Now you can connect the 12v line to a live wire. Don't make the mistake I did initially. I spliced into a 12v line for the homelink buttons, however, it was too small and could not sustain the draw from the RADAR detector.
Attachment 525479
Instead use the thicker hot lines towards the front of the car which powers the light console.
Attachment 525480
The 12v line I spliced into was Brown and Blue... make sure you check the voltage before splicing into any lines.
Step 3 - Test the RADAR detector
a. Seems an obvious step but don't close things up until you've successfully tested the RADAR detector out. As I mentioned in step 2c... some 12v lines will not support the draw from the RADAR detector so it is not good enough to just find a live wire.
b. Make sure you test the RADAR with the ignition key out, in, and engine turned on to ensure proper function throughout all conditions. Note that I could only find a permanently line 12v line so I have to actively turn off the RADAR detector so that it does not drain the battery even though the ignition key is out. Some vehicles like our Toyotal Tundra have a towing package and the light console has a 12v lines which only tursn on when the ignition key is turned on... I prefer this as it lets me get away without having to actively turn on/off the detector.
Step 4 - reverse the process of removing the light/sliding roof console.
Step 5 - Be patient... allocate 2 hrs so you don't rush the job. Looks easy enough but I had to do a bit of troubleshooting to figure out the 12v draw issue. Hope this helps and "enjoy the ride."
Attachment 525481
Estimated Time: 30-45mins... add 30mins for the write up
Results: cleaner looking interior, less visual and physical obstruction. Found my wife holding the bungy cord to the side so that my shifting would not hit it. Annoying...
Before the job
Attachment 525469
End Result
Attachment 525468
Parts:Redline RADAR detector with bungy style power cord
[Attachment 525470
New hardwire kit from Escort
Attachment 525467
Note that this looks to be a simple RJ-45 connector with a ground and a hot 12v line.
Tools Required: thumb nail, phillips screw driver, and sand paper.
Instructions:
Step 1 - start by removing the sliding roof/cabin light console so that you may tap into a 12v wire.
a. Remove the two homelink buttons. I used my thumb nail to get under these buttons and pot them out. They are held in place via small tabs towards the front of the vehicle. Attachment 525471Attachment 525472
b. Pop the underlining homelink button circuit board module off using your thumb nail... no need to disconnect their electrical connectors as you will be able to get to the two screws (1 under each module) now.
Attachment 525482
c. Remove the two screws under the homelink circuit board modules with a phillips screw driver.
d. Now you can pull down on the rearward most part of the console. It is held there by two tabs.
Attachment 525473
These attach to the metal catches in the headliner.
Attachment 525474
Push the console towards the front of the car and it should come off. Note the wiring harenesses will continue to hold the console up.
Step 2 - Now we can connect the hardwire lines.
a. I attached the ground wire to metal bracket which is where we removed the screw from in step 1c. Note that I had to sand back a bit of paint to create a good contact point...
Attachment 525476
looks fine afterwards as the metal bracket covers up the sanded part.
Attachment 525477
b. Feed the excess wire and fuse holder into the right side under the headliner.Attachment 525478
c. Now you can connect the 12v line to a live wire. Don't make the mistake I did initially. I spliced into a 12v line for the homelink buttons, however, it was too small and could not sustain the draw from the RADAR detector.
Attachment 525479
Instead use the thicker hot lines towards the front of the car which powers the light console.
Attachment 525480
The 12v line I spliced into was Brown and Blue... make sure you check the voltage before splicing into any lines.
Step 3 - Test the RADAR detector
a. Seems an obvious step but don't close things up until you've successfully tested the RADAR detector out. As I mentioned in step 2c... some 12v lines will not support the draw from the RADAR detector so it is not good enough to just find a live wire.
b. Make sure you test the RADAR with the ignition key out, in, and engine turned on to ensure proper function throughout all conditions. Note that I could only find a permanently line 12v line so I have to actively turn off the RADAR detector so that it does not drain the battery even though the ignition key is out. Some vehicles like our Toyotal Tundra have a towing package and the light console has a 12v lines which only tursn on when the ignition key is turned on... I prefer this as it lets me get away without having to actively turn on/off the detector.
Step 4 - reverse the process of removing the light/sliding roof console.
Step 5 - Be patient... allocate 2 hrs so you don't rush the job. Looks easy enough but I had to do a bit of troubleshooting to figure out the 12v draw issue. Hope this helps and "enjoy the ride."
Attachment 525481
TIA.
