Camber Plates?
03-20-2011, 10:31 PM
#1
Registered User
Thread Starter
Camber Plates?
I'm going over my planned suspension mods, and one thing I can't find in any searches is opinions on camber plates. I know most people going for more front camber are doing the GT3 LCA's. Okay, I might do that, but has anyone done camber plates?
So far as I can tell camber plates are :
1. Somewhat cheaper, roughly $500 vs $900 for LCA's (plus shims, xenon levelers, etc)
2. Only provide 1 degree more neg camber. I got -1.3 on stock, so getting to -2.3 is probably plenty for me but maybe not enough for hard trackers.
3. Generally replace stock rubber strut mount with monoball. This might make steering crisper, might make ride harsher, might reduce toe out under hard braking. I'm particularly interested if anyone has impressions on this.
So far as I can tell camber plates are :
1. Somewhat cheaper, roughly $500 vs $900 for LCA's (plus shims, xenon levelers, etc)
2. Only provide 1 degree more neg camber. I got -1.3 on stock, so getting to -2.3 is probably plenty for me but maybe not enough for hard trackers.
3. Generally replace stock rubber strut mount with monoball. This might make steering crisper, might make ride harsher, might reduce toe out under hard braking. I'm particularly interested if anyone has impressions on this.
03-21-2011, 09:56 AM
#2
Rennlist Member
I have both, if you can call GT3 upper mounts 'camber plates'.
Major benefit you gain from using stock GT3 upper mounts is that they do have same steel monoballs as cheaper 'race' copies but are much better protected from elements so they will last longer if your car is not moving around on a trailer 100% of time.
having steel instead of rubber helps to maintain same camber in turn, also with rotation of upper mount you can move shocks a bit inward that allows more clearance for bigger front wheels - i would say about of 14mm of additional space. i run 9" wide 18" track rims but I think 9.5" would fit too probably.
But I would not do upper mounts alone without LCAs. Do both if you want to redo front suspension. At same time on stock C2 or C2s car you also need to replace front fork arms and put in GT3 front swaybar.
Major benefit you gain from using stock GT3 upper mounts is that they do have same steel monoballs as cheaper 'race' copies but are much better protected from elements so they will last longer if your car is not moving around on a trailer 100% of time.
having steel instead of rubber helps to maintain same camber in turn, also with rotation of upper mount you can move shocks a bit inward that allows more clearance for bigger front wheels - i would say about of 14mm of additional space. i run 9" wide 18" track rims but I think 9.5" would fit too probably.
But I would not do upper mounts alone without LCAs. Do both if you want to redo front suspension. At same time on stock C2 or C2s car you also need to replace front fork arms and put in GT3 front swaybar.
03-21-2011, 04:07 PM
#4
Rennlist Member
those.
http://www.tarett.com/items/996-997-...010-detail.htm
they are most needed in front to adjust castor.
http://www.tarett.com/items/996-997-...010-detail.htm
they are most needed in front to adjust castor.
03-21-2011, 06:10 PM
#5
Registered User
Thread Starter
http://www.rennline.com/Sealed-Front...oductinfo/S21/
"Note: When using factory non adjustable struts with factory spring seats, weather seal must be removed. "
03-21-2011, 11:35 PM
#7
Rennlist Member
cbbzoom,
I just received a set of Tarett camber plates and F/R adjustable drop links. I'll have them on the car along with a set of Damptronics by 3/28 PM. I started to order the GT3 LCAs but went the camber plate route. I was able to get -2.4 front on a 996 with a similar setup and a bit of grinding on the top mounting holes.
I'll post some photos and the alignment results after I get it aligned.
I just received a set of Tarett camber plates and F/R adjustable drop links. I'll have them on the car along with a set of Damptronics by 3/28 PM. I started to order the GT3 LCAs but went the camber plate route. I was able to get -2.4 front on a 996 with a similar setup and a bit of grinding on the top mounting holes.
I'll post some photos and the alignment results after I get it aligned.
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03-22-2011, 09:39 AM
#9
Moderator
Rennlist Member
Rennlist Member
My philosophy, especially while my car is under warranty, is to stick with well proven Porsche OEM parts, such as the lower control arms. I've got -2.4 degrees up front, just enough to almost eliminate all understeer. There's just a little bit left as a safety net. And the install and alignment was a piece of cake, no grinding holes or any other modification to the car. If I decide to sell this car, as I've done with others, it's a simple removal of the LCAs and return to stock without leaving a trace.
