Removing rear Bose speaker box???
#2
Three Wheelin'
#5
Rennlist Member
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+1, i am wondering too. i might get a roll bar next season and so the box will have to go.
question: the first step above is to disconnect the battery, but the overall direcs are for removing ECU. so for a simple sound comparison only, can i just leave the batt connected, unattach/unplug the box and listen to music without it? (i'm asking because i know these finicky new cars sometimes don't like when standard electronic things suddenly go M.I.A.)
question: the first step above is to disconnect the battery, but the overall direcs are for removing ECU. so for a simple sound comparison only, can i just leave the batt connected, unattach/unplug the box and listen to music without it? (i'm asking because i know these finicky new cars sometimes don't like when standard electronic things suddenly go M.I.A.)
#7
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however, if you do research and talk to reputable shops, you'll prob find as i did: that type of protection is inferior to bars that have attachment points farther back in cabin (and/or are welded in). that being said, i am still debating on which type, as 1) it's also a daily driver and i like my music and 2) i dont plan on flipping over!
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#8
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Yeah, I also heard that the type that attach to the top of the shock towers are better than the rear seat attach points and a welded in one seems to offer the most protection. GMG Racing seem to make nice products that allow full seat movement.
#9
Burning Brakes
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Unless you're building a dedicated track car, there is no need to go back to the shock towers. The chassis isnt even seam welded so you aren't going to see much help in the way of torsional stiffness unless you tie ALL the suspension points.
On the woofer. Gently pry off the plastic port surrounds. Remove the torx bolts (one in each port). Remove the rear seat latches located on the quarter panels. Pull the enclosure forward until you can access the connector on the driver side behind the enclosure. Remove connector, remove woofer.
On the woofer. Gently pry off the plastic port surrounds. Remove the torx bolts (one in each port). Remove the rear seat latches located on the quarter panels. Pull the enclosure forward until you can access the connector on the driver side behind the enclosure. Remove connector, remove woofer.
#10
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On the woofer. Gently pry off the plastic port surrounds. Remove the torx bolts (one in each port). Remove the rear seat latches located on the quarter panels. Pull the enclosure forward until you can access the connector on the driver side behind the enclosure. Remove connector, remove woofer.
#11
Three Wheelin'
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BTW, why are you pulling the sub?
#12
Burning Brakes
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No need to disconnect the battery.
Although, it is a good practice to disconnect the neg terminal any time you work on the electrical system.
That said, I rarely do
Although, it is a good practice to disconnect the neg terminal any time you work on the electrical system.
That said, I rarely do
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#13
Rennlist Member
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well, not nece pulling it yet...kind of just want to unplug and hear the stereo sound without it. as mentioned above, i am thinking of a roll bar/seats for next track season but dont know if i want to go with a "lite" option that only bolts to the rear seat points (thereby keeping my sub) or the "official" option which bolts to shock mounts (or however the hell it bolts, but you get my drift). point is, it's a daily driver too so i'm still lamenting how far i have to trade off.