how do we check clutch oil and pdk transmission oil?
#1
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has anybody actually checked the clutch oil and the pdk oil? i dont think anybody has ever asked this question. how do we do it? can we just go to a gas station and look whether the level is correct or not or do we need the piwis to do this simple procedure?
#2
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So far as I know there is no check for them period. Not even on PIWIS (presumably you would get a fault if the levels were way off and PIWIS and would show that).
If you really need to check the level for some reason, you can just unscrew the fill plug. The transmission oil level should be right below where it would flow out the fill plug.
If you really need to check the level for some reason, you can just unscrew the fill plug. The transmission oil level should be right below where it would flow out the fill plug.
#3
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cbzzoom i realize that this is a difficult one as you were the only who gave an idea. i think this is my first post that went this slow with our brother. iguess it is a procedure that is not done. the factory fil should be considered right and if no leaks show should not even be considered checked. i just thought of it as one of my 997's went back to the dealer because of a humming noise and they said they checked transmission lubricant and added some. hmmm? bs?
#4
Burning Brakes
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Clutch is fed through the brake system, so if you have clean brake fluid then you have good clutch fluid too. Be sure to bleed the clutch when you bleed the brakes.
I don't know where the fill is for the PDK transmission but I have my manual trans fluid changed every 30k miles or so even if not required. Independent service for me, no dealers get to touch my Porsche any more.
I don't know where the fill is for the PDK transmission but I have my manual trans fluid changed every 30k miles or so even if not required. Independent service for me, no dealers get to touch my Porsche any more.
#5
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was referring to the wet clutch system of the pdk and the transmission box of the pdk itself. we know that these are two seperate systems. the transmission box probably a simple sae 90 synthetic gear oil but im prety sure the clutch has some special oil...
#6
Drifting
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From the owners manual
PDK transmission oil - approx. 3.12 quarts / 2.95 liters ATF transmission oil Mobilube PTX Formula A (SAE 75W-90) GL 4.5 - change at 120K miles or 12 years
PDK clutch oil - approx. 5.49 quarts / 5.2 liters Pentosin Gear Oil FFL 3 - change at 60 K miles or 6 years
Looks like you need the PIWIS to perform the check. This is from the 2009 Technik Service information book:
Oil filling
The correct hydraulic oil level is important for operating the transmission without
running into problems. The following preconditions must be met in order to check or
correct the oil level:
• Engine must be idling
• Vehicle must be horizontal in both longitudinal and transverse axis
• Hydraulic oil temperature between 86° F. and 104° F. (30° C and 40° C)
• Selector-lever position “P”
• Clutch cooling volume flow must be switched off (using PIWIS Tester in Oil fill
mode)
• Retain the described states for approx. 1 minute to allow the oil to settle
• Open screw plug on oil overflow bore and collect emerging oil until only drops of
oil are emerging
• Once there is no more oil emerging, top up the clutch fluid until oil emerges at
the oil overflow bore
• To avoid damaging the clutches, the procedure must be completed within 5 minutes
(PIWIS Tester exits Oil fill mode automatically after 5 minutes)
The correct oil level is also important to avoid damaging the gear wheels in the
transmission. There is also an overflow bore for this, which is located on the opposite
side. The oil level can be checked in the usual way here.
That's all the information I have right now. If I run across more, I will add it to this thread
Hope it helps
PDK transmission oil - approx. 3.12 quarts / 2.95 liters ATF transmission oil Mobilube PTX Formula A (SAE 75W-90) GL 4.5 - change at 120K miles or 12 years
PDK clutch oil - approx. 5.49 quarts / 5.2 liters Pentosin Gear Oil FFL 3 - change at 60 K miles or 6 years
Looks like you need the PIWIS to perform the check. This is from the 2009 Technik Service information book:
Oil filling
The correct hydraulic oil level is important for operating the transmission without
running into problems. The following preconditions must be met in order to check or
correct the oil level:
• Engine must be idling
• Vehicle must be horizontal in both longitudinal and transverse axis
• Hydraulic oil temperature between 86° F. and 104° F. (30° C and 40° C)
• Selector-lever position “P”
• Clutch cooling volume flow must be switched off (using PIWIS Tester in Oil fill
mode)
• Retain the described states for approx. 1 minute to allow the oil to settle
• Open screw plug on oil overflow bore and collect emerging oil until only drops of
oil are emerging
• Once there is no more oil emerging, top up the clutch fluid until oil emerges at
the oil overflow bore
• To avoid damaging the clutches, the procedure must be completed within 5 minutes
(PIWIS Tester exits Oil fill mode automatically after 5 minutes)
The correct oil level is also important to avoid damaging the gear wheels in the
transmission. There is also an overflow bore for this, which is located on the opposite
side. The oil level can be checked in the usual way here.
That's all the information I have right now. If I run across more, I will add it to this thread
Hope it helps
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Last edited by wwilliams88; 03-13-2011 at 10:29 AM. Reason: Correct change interval
#7
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Here's another way to check PDK oil/fluid levels: Put the car on a lift, look underneath the transmission. If there's slippery liquid visible- YOU NEED THE TRANS REPLACED. It happened to me yesterday. I had no sign of trouble, no warning lights, and no drips on my garage floor. I took my C2S to dealer for a pre-AutoX tech inspection. Imagine my surprise when they said I need a whole new PDK!
The AutoX is this Saturday - dealer thinks car will be ready in time. I'll believe it when I see it. In the meantime they gave me a lovely rental car, a bright red Toyota Corolla. I drove it straight home and hid it in my garage!
PS: Car has 20K miles. Mostly street/highway, with 3 days HPDE and 1 day AutoX.
DMoore
'09 C2S PDK
'10 P4S
The AutoX is this Saturday - dealer thinks car will be ready in time. I'll believe it when I see it. In the meantime they gave me a lovely rental car, a bright red Toyota Corolla. I drove it straight home and hid it in my garage!
PS: Car has 20K miles. Mostly street/highway, with 3 days HPDE and 1 day AutoX.
DMoore
'09 C2S PDK
'10 P4S
Last edited by DMoore; 10-13-2010 at 12:35 PM.
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#9
Burning Brakes
#10
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My dealer hasn't mentioned any price, and I haven't signed any estimate, only an authorization to repair. So it appears my dealer thinks it's covered and they know how the car is being used. Based on what I've been told by the dealer, I'm not at all convinced that I actually NEED a new transmission. It's just started leaking fluid but still performing perfectly. Doesn't that sound like a seal or something similar? Potentially expensive to rebuild, but far cheaper than a replacement?
I have the impression they've been told that if it's anything worse than a very minor problem, just pull and replace. Didn't I read somewhere a while back that if they had PDK issues they'd just pull the tranny and send it back to PCNA (or Germany) for inspection? It would be interesting if they tried to charge the full replacement price under those circumstances. Time will tell.
DMoore
'09 C2S
'10 P4S
#11
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Though technically they can only deny claims if they can show that the fault is due to track use, track use cannot automatically void the warranty (though they represent it that way to you, it's not legal).
IMO if it's a slow leak, just drive it and don't sweat it, or have an indy take a glance. If it comes to a rebuild, GBox has a very good rep.
#12
Drifting
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http://www.suncoastparts.com/product//PNA91102109.html
Or you can make a contribution to www.renntech.org (if you havent already) and download a copy from the contributing members section. Its just an introductory book, doesn't go into the details as to how to make repairs. But it is better than the owners manual as far as providing info.
Last edited by wwilliams88; 10-13-2010 at 09:13 AM.
#14
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Ugh, don't remind me, I'm trying to keep my anger at PCNA to a low simmer!
Though technically they can only deny claims if they can show that the fault is due to track use, track use cannot automatically void the warranty (though they represent it that way to you, it's not legal).
IMO if it's a slow leak, just drive it and don't sweat it, or have an indy take a glance. If it comes to a rebuild, GBox has a very good rep.
Though technically they can only deny claims if they can show that the fault is due to track use, track use cannot automatically void the warranty (though they represent it that way to you, it's not legal).
IMO if it's a slow leak, just drive it and don't sweat it, or have an indy take a glance. If it comes to a rebuild, GBox has a very good rep.
DMoore
'09 C2S PDK
'10 P4S
#15
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Thread Starter
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williams88 i decided to contriubute to our forum on renntech. im sure more will benefit with this than buying a hard copy at suncoast....thanks again for telling me.