misfires in 3 cylinders (4,5,6)
#61
I had this problem with mine a few months ago, tester showed misfires on cyl's 4,5,6.
The actuators are interchangeable between banks, so to prove it was the VVS Actuator (which I suspected it was), I swapped it over to the other bank and sure enough the fault codes switched to cyl's 1,2,3.
The actuators are interchangeable between banks, so to prove it was the VVS Actuator (which I suspected it was), I swapped it over to the other bank and sure enough the fault codes switched to cyl's 1,2,3.
#62
Misfire in cylinder 1/2/3
Same problem flashing management light recording misfire on cylinders 1/2/3 recent coils replaced and also replaced plugs but still same issue was advised by a specialist to swap camshaft solinoids to the opposite side and hopefully misfire would swap to 4/5/6 which it did so replaced the smaller solonoid which apparently is the most common one to go faulty .easy replacement at a cost of just over £100 for the part Glad to say it's sorted
#64
Solenoid part number
Hi there are 2 solenoids which are slightly different from each other I was advised this one part number 99710530100 was the most common one to go faulty . Instead of buying the 2 I tried this one and it worked car is running like a dream cost was £104 other one is £119 hope this helps
#65
Racer
Cayman3.4, What year is your vehicle? What were your symptoms? Did you do this yourself? Which side did you replace? Front or rear (on the side you replaced)?
I'd PM but doesn't look like you can receive yet
I'd PM but doesn't look like you can receive yet
#66
Misfire in 3 cylinders
2009 model . car engine management light came on more so when vehicle was idling in traffic . It went from on to flashing . It was noted it was misfiring in 3 cylinders 1-2-3. I was advised to swap solenoid aviators from either side on to each other and clear codes . Car then misfired on opposite side 4-5-6 then advised the acuator in the middle of the block is the most common one to go faulty so I replaced that and it's been trouble free since .repair was carried out by a friend Bmw specialist but I was kindly advised by a Porsche specialist as to what to look for . Hope this helps
#67
Misfiring cylinders
Spoddle - I recently encountered the exact issue you wrote about on my ‘05 997 C2S. We’re you able to figure out the root cause, and what fixed it?
Thanks, Jeff
QUOTE=Spoddle;10807346]Bringing this thread back from the dead to thank Macster. I just ran into this fault on my 997 and am hoping to diagnose it using your posts.
Upon startup the check engine light came on, flashed, then stayed on. I'm hoping it's just bad gas.
Bosch Digital Motor Electronics Motronic 7.8.1
Fault Codes
P0300:Misfiring checksum error
P0301:Misfiring cylinder 1
P0303:Misfiring cylinder 3
P0305:Misfiring cylinder 5[/QUOTE]
Thanks, Jeff
QUOTE=Spoddle;10807346]Bringing this thread back from the dead to thank Macster. I just ran into this fault on my 997 and am hoping to diagnose it using your posts.
Upon startup the check engine light came on, flashed, then stayed on. I'm hoping it's just bad gas.
Bosch Digital Motor Electronics Motronic 7.8.1
Fault Codes
P0300:Misfiring checksum error
P0301:Misfiring cylinder 1
P0303:Misfiring cylinder 3
P0305:Misfiring cylinder 5[/QUOTE]
#68
Hot weather caused misfire in cyl 3,4,5,6
Hey folks,
My area hit hot weather topping 108 F when I heard a phssssssst sound in my 997.2 base carrera driving in town. Suddenly idle would walk up and down 1000 rpms. I ran diagnostics and got theses error codes.
P0303
P0304
P0305
P0306
P0300
P0174
P0171
Also complained about too lean fuel on banks 1 and 2.
Plugs and coils replaced about 8 months ago and car ran great. Something with the hot weather "tripped" this symptom. I did notice oil temp was at 225ish(normally 200ish)
but water was a solid 175 when this all happened . Cold start next morning resulted in same symptoms.....
Is this variocam craziness going on?
Thanks
HH
My area hit hot weather topping 108 F when I heard a phssssssst sound in my 997.2 base carrera driving in town. Suddenly idle would walk up and down 1000 rpms. I ran diagnostics and got theses error codes.
P0303
P0304
P0305
P0306
P0300
P0174
P0171
Also complained about too lean fuel on banks 1 and 2.
Plugs and coils replaced about 8 months ago and car ran great. Something with the hot weather "tripped" this symptom. I did notice oil temp was at 225ish(normally 200ish)
but water was a solid 175 when this all happened . Cold start next morning resulted in same symptoms.....
Is this variocam craziness going on?
Thanks
HH
#69
Rennlist Member
If you heard an air hiss, my guess is something intake/air or vacuum related failed. Too lean means some air is getting in behind the MAF. AOS maybe?
#70
Hey folks,
My area hit hot weather topping 108 F when I heard a phssssssst sound in my 997.2 base carrera driving in town. Suddenly idle would walk up and down 1000 rpms. I ran diagnostics and got theses error codes.
P0303
P0304
P0305
P0306
P0300
P0174
P0171
Also complained about too lean fuel on banks 1 and 2.
Plugs and coils replaced about 8 months ago and car ran great. Something with the hot weather "tripped" this symptom. I did notice oil temp was at 225ish(normally 200ish)
but water was a solid 175 when this all happened . Cold start next morning resulted in same symptoms.....
Is this variocam craziness going on?
Thanks
HH
My area hit hot weather topping 108 F when I heard a phssssssst sound in my 997.2 base carrera driving in town. Suddenly idle would walk up and down 1000 rpms. I ran diagnostics and got theses error codes.
P0303
P0304
P0305
P0306
P0300
P0174
P0171
Also complained about too lean fuel on banks 1 and 2.
Plugs and coils replaced about 8 months ago and car ran great. Something with the hot weather "tripped" this symptom. I did notice oil temp was at 225ish(normally 200ish)
but water was a solid 175 when this all happened . Cold start next morning resulted in same symptoms.....
Is this variocam craziness going on?
Thanks
HH
#71
Solenoid failure symptoms
Throwing another experience out there in case it helps others diagnose in the future. 2009 C2 with 82k miles on it.
I first got a check engine light and "Visit Workshop" message while driving fairly casually around probably 3k rpms, with no drama or change in behavior from the car. When I got home and pulled the codes I had misfires on 4, 5, 6, and the generic misfire code for bank 2. Because I needed other work done I had an indy shop do some basic diagnosis and they found.. pretty much nothing in looking it over. They ended up suggesting coils/plugs even though they're only a few years old, but I was pretty suspicious about the whole side was having misfires and had them just do the other work and skip doing any more for the misfires.
When I picked up the car and started it up, it was immediately obvious something was wrong. The car started alright, but after 20-30 seconds of idling it went lumpy, sounded down a cylinder, and threw the check engine light and workshop message again. I shut the car down and let it sit a minute, then started and drove off. It drove fine (though it felt a bit down on power) until I got to a light. Once I stopped and sat, the idle again went lumpy after a short while. I tried to drive off when the light changed and it felt awful and barely wanted to drive - no power, shaking the whole car, making some pretty bad sputtering and clunking noises - basically like the engine had failed. I stopped quickly and shut it down and let it sit a minute again. Then started up and drove away. I made it home by restarting the car any time I was at a light, and with repeat check engines/workshop messages any time the revs were below 2k/3k. It drove pretty much fine when the revs were up, though still felt less responsive and somewhat down on power.
Based on lots of posts here I ended up ordering the solenoid (9A110530803) when I got home, and once it arrived I swapped it in. I chose to skip diagnosing by swapping the part from one bank to the other because frankly that would have been more work than just changing it out for a new one and I'm lazy. It's a pretty easy swap if your muffler isn't rusted on, like doing the plugs but simpler since its just the one part. Pulling the old solenoid out while working around the bung on top of the cat right there is a bit of a PITA but vicegrips did the trick. If your muffler hasn't been off recently... that's probably going to be a whole thing, I'm sorry. The bad solenoid didn't show any obvious visual issue when I looked it over.
Startup after reassembling yielded normal running/behavior, and I haven't been able to reproduce any issues in the few days since. Did an oil change tonight, and no metal or bits in the filter/oil so no damage done it would seem.
If anyone is looking for the solenoid, I actually had a tough time finding one. After trying 3-4 places, and being told it was "backordered with no ETA" I found some on carID.com. I ended up with what seems like it might be one revision old (9A110530803, vs 9A110530804)? But the ..04 part isn't as well documented so I'm not sure, and I just sorta made my peace with it. The one in my car was 9A110530802, so the original part I suspect, and if so lasted 82k miles.
Thanks to ya'll for putting me down the right path on this one
I first got a check engine light and "Visit Workshop" message while driving fairly casually around probably 3k rpms, with no drama or change in behavior from the car. When I got home and pulled the codes I had misfires on 4, 5, 6, and the generic misfire code for bank 2. Because I needed other work done I had an indy shop do some basic diagnosis and they found.. pretty much nothing in looking it over. They ended up suggesting coils/plugs even though they're only a few years old, but I was pretty suspicious about the whole side was having misfires and had them just do the other work and skip doing any more for the misfires.
When I picked up the car and started it up, it was immediately obvious something was wrong. The car started alright, but after 20-30 seconds of idling it went lumpy, sounded down a cylinder, and threw the check engine light and workshop message again. I shut the car down and let it sit a minute, then started and drove off. It drove fine (though it felt a bit down on power) until I got to a light. Once I stopped and sat, the idle again went lumpy after a short while. I tried to drive off when the light changed and it felt awful and barely wanted to drive - no power, shaking the whole car, making some pretty bad sputtering and clunking noises - basically like the engine had failed. I stopped quickly and shut it down and let it sit a minute again. Then started up and drove away. I made it home by restarting the car any time I was at a light, and with repeat check engines/workshop messages any time the revs were below 2k/3k. It drove pretty much fine when the revs were up, though still felt less responsive and somewhat down on power.
Based on lots of posts here I ended up ordering the solenoid (9A110530803) when I got home, and once it arrived I swapped it in. I chose to skip diagnosing by swapping the part from one bank to the other because frankly that would have been more work than just changing it out for a new one and I'm lazy. It's a pretty easy swap if your muffler isn't rusted on, like doing the plugs but simpler since its just the one part. Pulling the old solenoid out while working around the bung on top of the cat right there is a bit of a PITA but vicegrips did the trick. If your muffler hasn't been off recently... that's probably going to be a whole thing, I'm sorry. The bad solenoid didn't show any obvious visual issue when I looked it over.
Startup after reassembling yielded normal running/behavior, and I haven't been able to reproduce any issues in the few days since. Did an oil change tonight, and no metal or bits in the filter/oil so no damage done it would seem.
If anyone is looking for the solenoid, I actually had a tough time finding one. After trying 3-4 places, and being told it was "backordered with no ETA" I found some on carID.com. I ended up with what seems like it might be one revision old (9A110530803, vs 9A110530804)? But the ..04 part isn't as well documented so I'm not sure, and I just sorta made my peace with it. The one in my car was 9A110530802, so the original part I suspect, and if so lasted 82k miles.
Thanks to ya'll for putting me down the right path on this one
#72
Mine had the same issue, however it was all cylinders randomly. The misfires were CEL codes, the engine wouldn't skip a beat. Went through the hassle of getting new coils, plugs, vaccum components, valve cleaning... Nothing helped.
New belt and it's all fixed. Its a 09 Cayman S
New belt and it's all fixed. Its a 09 Cayman S
#74
Adding my experience here as well. 997.1 4S, ~60k miles on it. Misfires in bank 1: cylinders 1, 2, 3.
Check engine light started to appear randomly a minute or so after I started driving. First couple of times came on, but turned off after another minute. Didn't feel anything wrong with the engine. It didn't appear again with warm engine and my local indy wasn't able to reproduce the issue. One idea they had was that battery is getting weak and during ignition some parts are not getting enough "juice" and due to that may throw errors. Battery wasn't OEM and I've managed to drain it couple of times just by leaving the car unlocked in the garage, so the idea had some merit to it. Upgraded it from 680A to 800A. Also got an oil change which was due (from 5w40 to 0w40).
The first cold start after the oil change and battery swap the CEL came on after the cold start procedure when the revs go down. This time however the engine made pretty bad noise and couldn't keep idle. Turned it off, started it again and everything worked again.
After reading and watching everything I could find on this it was clear that it had to be the solenoid issue. I also managed to avoid misfires and CEL by not letting the car finish the cold start procedure by revving it carefully right before it was about to.
Went back to the indy and instructed them to switch the solenoids on bank 1 and 2 and test the cold start again. They informed me that there are two pairs of solenoids, which ones exactly? I was pretty sure I read about camshaft solenoids from rennlist, so we started with those (solenoid for variable cam adjuster, part code 99610530306). But that didn't help and the culprit was variable valve timing (VVT) solenoid, part code 99610530104.
Good luck reader from the future.
Check engine light started to appear randomly a minute or so after I started driving. First couple of times came on, but turned off after another minute. Didn't feel anything wrong with the engine. It didn't appear again with warm engine and my local indy wasn't able to reproduce the issue. One idea they had was that battery is getting weak and during ignition some parts are not getting enough "juice" and due to that may throw errors. Battery wasn't OEM and I've managed to drain it couple of times just by leaving the car unlocked in the garage, so the idea had some merit to it. Upgraded it from 680A to 800A. Also got an oil change which was due (from 5w40 to 0w40).
The first cold start after the oil change and battery swap the CEL came on after the cold start procedure when the revs go down. This time however the engine made pretty bad noise and couldn't keep idle. Turned it off, started it again and everything worked again.
After reading and watching everything I could find on this it was clear that it had to be the solenoid issue. I also managed to avoid misfires and CEL by not letting the car finish the cold start procedure by revving it carefully right before it was about to.
Went back to the indy and instructed them to switch the solenoids on bank 1 and 2 and test the cold start again. They informed me that there are two pairs of solenoids, which ones exactly? I was pretty sure I read about camshaft solenoids from rennlist, so we started with those (solenoid for variable cam adjuster, part code 99610530306). But that didn't help and the culprit was variable valve timing (VVT) solenoid, part code 99610530104.
Good luck reader from the future.
Last edited by margus; 10-24-2022 at 01:43 PM.
#75
What is involved in changing the solenoids? Remove exhaust?
PS - NM, I read posts above. Cheers.
My indy has read misfires in the past but was not able to figure it out. I needed the car back so it was never fully fixed I guess. Couple of years ago. Runs fine.
I disconnected the battery overnight and it seemed to reset. Light is back on again and I will try to reset again. Might replace the solenoids if doesnt work.
PS - NM, I read posts above. Cheers.
My indy has read misfires in the past but was not able to figure it out. I needed the car back so it was never fully fixed I guess. Couple of years ago. Runs fine.
I disconnected the battery overnight and it seemed to reset. Light is back on again and I will try to reset again. Might replace the solenoids if doesnt work.
Last edited by BHMav8r; 10-24-2022 at 12:41 PM.