Changing pads at the track (DE)
#1
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Those of you (997.1) who change brake pads for each DE, do you generally use new vibration dampers, or do you clean and put adhesive on the old ones, or do you just throw in the new pads, without putting adhesive on the old ones?
A complete set of dampers is about $100.00, adds up after a while!
Thanks
A complete set of dampers is about $100.00, adds up after a while!
Thanks
#2
Race Director
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I do not use the anti-squeal backing plates with my track pads. they will not keep the race pads from squealing anyway and with Pagid Yellows they will not fit anyway.
When I put my stock pads back in I do not use any adhesive and the stock pads are quiet.
When I put my stock pads back in I do not use any adhesive and the stock pads are quiet.
#3
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+1 no anti sqeal shims for track. If you use Pagids and have new rotors it is hard to fit the pads in with shims without binding even if you wanted to use them.
Also +1 on usually no need to use any thing like adhesive when reinstalling street pads with shims. If you want to use something, I would suggest you try Permatex Disc Brake Quiet - comes in a spray can and is a thin blue spray. Just lay pads face down on some newspaper or something and give each pad backing a light coat where the pistons will hit - works very well and you don't need much. I usually spray the pads then jack the car and get a wheel off and the spray is ready to go - dry or tacky. OK I admit I even do this to my track pads sometimes without using shims...
Also +1 on usually no need to use any thing like adhesive when reinstalling street pads with shims. If you want to use something, I would suggest you try Permatex Disc Brake Quiet - comes in a spray can and is a thin blue spray. Just lay pads face down on some newspaper or something and give each pad backing a light coat where the pistons will hit - works very well and you don't need much. I usually spray the pads then jack the car and get a wheel off and the spray is ready to go - dry or tacky. OK I admit I even do this to my track pads sometimes without using shims...
#4
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I agree with the above--when I tracked my 01 Turbo, I eliminated the shims both for street and for my track pads. My understanding is that unless they are stuck to the pads, the shims do nothing as far as preventing brake squeal. So unless you're gluing the old shims to the pads in some way, there's no point in reusing them.
The shims when new may stay "glued" in street use, but run on the track (even if you can get them in there with the Pagids) and they won't stay glued very long. In fact, in all my Porsches, when I go to change the original set of pads, the shims have broken loose from the pads long ago. That's another reason why I say eliminate them when you change your pads.
The shims when new may stay "glued" in street use, but run on the track (even if you can get them in there with the Pagids) and they won't stay glued very long. In fact, in all my Porsches, when I go to change the original set of pads, the shims have broken loose from the pads long ago. That's another reason why I say eliminate them when you change your pads.
#5
Rennlist Member
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We manufacture a Brake Tool which greatly eases the process of removing the retaining pin so you can change pads. It does this by compressing the spring clip for you and holding it so you have both hands free to complete the task. $49.95
And we offer a Brake Pad Spreader, which is an essential tool for anyone doing pad replacement. $39.95
Check them out at http://Traqjunk.com
And we offer a Brake Pad Spreader, which is an essential tool for anyone doing pad replacement. $39.95
Check them out at http://Traqjunk.com
#6
Race Director
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We manufacture a Brake Tool which greatly eases the process of removing the retaining pin so you can change pads. It does this by compressing the spring clip for you and holding it so you have both hands free to complete the task. $49.95
And we offer a Brake Pad Spreader, which is an essential tool for anyone doing pad replacement. $39.95
Check them out at http://Traqjunk.com
And we offer a Brake Pad Spreader, which is an essential tool for anyone doing pad replacement. $39.95
Check them out at http://Traqjunk.com
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#8
Race Director
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Yep..... or better yet get some old sensors ( your dealer will give them to you) and clip the wires 1" from the plug and solder the 2 ends together and shrink wraped them and plug them in....nice and clean, no need for sensors since I monitor my pads myself.
#9
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I am a little lost about these tools. I do a ton of DE's...a few a month it seems and I swap my pads out when I change my wheels before I go to the track. All I do is use a hole punch and lightly hammer out the pin and the clip falls right off. I use Channel Lock pliers with a towl so I do not mark the red paint on the caliper to compress the pads....you know the little lip on the caliper and matched the pad where the pin goes through?
And I could not resist, but that pad spreader looks about worthless. If one were inclined to spend money on a pad spreader, there are better ones out there.
#10
Rennlist Member
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All,
It has to do with the Brembo brakes. You CAN'T just push the retaining pin out, no matter how hard you try (on the fronts) because the spring fits into a depression on the pin. You have to compress the spring to get it to drop below the depression on the pin -- that's where our Brake Tool comes to the rescue.![Cool](https://rennlist.com/forums/images/smilies/cool.gif)
(In my former '84 911, the pin came out so easily -- just a whack with a punch and it was out! It's a completely different story with the 'improved' [ie, more difficult] Brembo design.)![Mad](https://rennlist.com/forums/images/smilies/mad.gif)
Take a look at TraqJunk.com to see what we've designed for the Brembo-style brakes.
It has to do with the Brembo brakes. You CAN'T just push the retaining pin out, no matter how hard you try (on the fronts) because the spring fits into a depression on the pin. You have to compress the spring to get it to drop below the depression on the pin -- that's where our Brake Tool comes to the rescue.
![Cool](https://rennlist.com/forums/images/smilies/cool.gif)
(In my former '84 911, the pin came out so easily -- just a whack with a punch and it was out! It's a completely different story with the 'improved' [ie, more difficult] Brembo design.)
![Mad](https://rennlist.com/forums/images/smilies/mad.gif)
Take a look at TraqJunk.com to see what we've designed for the Brembo-style brakes.
#11
Three Wheelin'
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All,
It has to do with the Brembo brakes. You CAN'T just push the retaining pin out, no matter how hard you try (on the fronts) because the spring fits into a depression on the pin. You have to compress the spring to get it to drop below the depression on the pin -- that's where our Brake Tool comes to the rescue.![Cool](https://rennlist.com/forums/images/smilies/cool.gif)
(In my former '84 911, the pin came out so easily -- just a whack with a punch and it was out! It's a completely different story with the 'improved' [ie, more difficult] Brembo design.)![Mad](https://rennlist.com/forums/images/smilies/mad.gif)
Take a look at TraqJunk.com to see what we've designed for the Brembo-style brakes.
It has to do with the Brembo brakes. You CAN'T just push the retaining pin out, no matter how hard you try (on the fronts) because the spring fits into a depression on the pin. You have to compress the spring to get it to drop below the depression on the pin -- that's where our Brake Tool comes to the rescue.
![Cool](https://rennlist.com/forums/images/smilies/cool.gif)
(In my former '84 911, the pin came out so easily -- just a whack with a punch and it was out! It's a completely different story with the 'improved' [ie, more difficult] Brembo design.)
![Mad](https://rennlist.com/forums/images/smilies/mad.gif)
Take a look at TraqJunk.com to see what we've designed for the Brembo-style brakes.
BTW, I like your seat belt 'tool' for harness use..