aggie57

Apologies - I got the term wrong. That's what mine says as well.

When you get close to a turn there is a small vertical bar that appears next to the arrow that starts out as an outline and as you get closer to the turn progressively fills in, bottom to top. I find that useful as it also shows you any side roads between where you currently are and the turn.

So if, for example, you're a couple of hundred metres (sorry, yards) from the turn and there are 2 small side roads they will show as small lines off to the side. As you pass each of those side roads they dissappear of the screen.

There must be some room buried down in a building somewhere full of dudes thinking through all these use cases!

Fin Fever

thanks much for your response Ken

I asked the dealer what I should do about tire pressures, because my digital gauge reads different from the dash display in my 997. The service manager told me that the dash display is 100% accurate, and my digital display must be out of calibration. He said that I should go by the numbers on the dash display. I now see that the opposite is true, which is what I suspected all along. I think I will try a few different digitals, and see if I can get any of them to agree. that should be the most precise readily available solution.

Da Hapa

No offense intended to your dealer but he is dead wrong. My dealer even showed me how the tire gauges they use in their shop read differently that the TPMS reading in the cars.

I bought a reasonably priced, nearly unbreakable "Intercomp" tire pressure gauge from Pegasus racing a long time ago and would recommend them all day long to anyone interested in a good, reasonably priced, but high quality gauge.

Bijan

Could not find the specs on the Beru but the Hella TUV tests are available:
http://www.hella.com/hella-com-en/as...eetTPMS_en.pdf

At 2.5 bar (250 kpa or 36 psi) the accuracy is almost minus 3 % or around 1 psi

A good dial type 60 psi gauge has an accuracy of +/- 1.2 psi
Here is an example:
http://www.getagauge.com/faq.cfm

So a discrepency of up to 3 psi is possible even with a good tire gauge

KeninBlaine

Update to my PCM issues. I took my car into the dealer today. My service rep had (surprisingly) abided by my request to obtain the enabling codes from PCNA yesterday. However, it turns out not to be an enabling code issue, but a faulty PCM unit. The Service Rep needs to obtain the Service Manager's approval before replacing it due to it being a $2400 item. So I'll need to go back on a week day so he can sign off on the replacement. My car has 1 month to go on the factory warranty, and despite being recently CPO'd, I didn't want to take any chances.

I solved my courtesy light issue. It turns out I had set the rocker switches to center position for the left and right overhead courtesy lights, but had overlooked the rocker for the center light. Once set to center position, on came the footwell lights. So it turns out you can't have footwell lights on without the center overhead light. I'm sure the designer had some logical reason for that!

Thanks again for all the suggestions.

KeninBlaine

OK, another update. I'm only continuing this post to make everyone aware of the complexity of the electronics on these cars.

I took my car into the Dealer today to have the PCM replaced, based on their assessment on Feb 6. Well, it turned out that the PCM wasn't defective after all. However, apparently the instrument cluster had been replaced in May 2009, and settings/codes hadn't been properly uploaded. So it is apparent that electronics in the instrument cluster can impact the PCM.

So I picked up my car a while ago. I now have individual settings that were previously missing, but the "daytime running lights" is dark, not active. WTF?? I thought, oh well, I'll deal with it later.

Then on the way home, I thought the car was riding quite rough, so checked to make sure the sport setting hadn't been activated. It wasn't lit up, but when I hit the button, it didn't light up either! Same result for the shock setting button. Neither would light up, but it felt like I was in the firm setting. I just went and started the car in the garage, and now the shock button lights up when activated, but the sport button won't turn on. Anyone ever experience this phenomenon?

So it looks like another trip to the Dealer is required. Will it ever end?

John Velasco

Time to talk rather harshly to the dealer.

Da Hapa

Ken - this was what I suspected. Your symptoms mirror what I experienced when my cluster was replaced... see posts above.

That's just nonsense. You'd think the dealer would do some sort of QC to makes sure things were back in order.

Sorry to hear you're having all of these issues.

What dealer are you working with? I hope they're at least being accomodating with a loaner, etc. given all this craziness.

KeninBlaine

I'm not sure what posts you were referring to regarding cluster replacement. I've booked another appointment next week at Newport Auto, with a loaner this time. They seem to be trying their best. They re-loaded all the enabling codes, yet it is still quirky.

Da Hapa

#8 and #37 above.

Hopefully Newport takes care of you.

schwartzwest

I will be replacing my cluster soon. Is there anything anyone can tell me to help me avoid these gremlins?

KeninBlaine

Joel: Just make sure the shop loads all the right codes so the systems communicate properly. I picked my car up today from my 3rd visit to the dealer to get things working right. I suggest you go through all the PCM menus (at least those that you care about) to make sure all the menu items are there, and that they all work.

In the middle of all this, I discovered my Sport button wasn't working. Today they determined that it is faulty and have to order one in. So I get to make another trip on Saturday morning. Luckily they can replace it while I wait.

All this reinforces why warranties are important. In my experience lately, it is the electronics that are more troublesome than mechanicals.

Good luck with your cluster replacement.

Ken