Does your clutch pedal "pop" during return travel? Read on...
11-08-2009, 02:53 AM
#1
Track Day
Thread Starter
Does your clutch pedal "pop" during return travel? Read on...
Howdy folks - I recently solved a small yet irksome trait my 997 was exhibiting and wanted to share my results in case this is plaguing anyone else.
I'm lucky enough to have a 987 S as well, which has proven quite handy when tracing issues on either car - the Boxster is a 2007 and nearly brand new while my C2S is a 2005 and has many miles. Both cars are nearly identical from the doors forward (excepting the bumper and some other minor things).
The small issue was simple - at the very end of the clutch pedal return, the pedal would pop suddenly - not much, but perhaps 5mm or so of distance that felt abrupt. My 987 does not do this and they share identical clutch pedal and assembly part #s. I began to dig into things and discovered that there are two small rubber stops within the clutch pedal cage, where the top of the clutch pedal rests when engaged (that is, not pushed in).
One of these little rubber pads is very soft, and the other is firm, more like plastic than rubber. They are also slightly different thicknesses. The very fact that these two little rubber stops are so similar yet so different told me I was on the right path - there is a design here that is very intentional.
My original rubber/plastic stops were grooved...so much so that that the clutch pedal was traveling up into these grooves in the pads enough that the helper spring assembly was popping a bit, and this is what you feel in the clutch pedal as a pop. This happens in the last 1/2 inch of travel if you have it. Essentially, I no longer had these stops - they were there, but ineffective and worn out.
Replacing these two little pads fixed it entirely - here are the part #s in case you too have this issue.
997 423 695 00
997 423 697 00
The softer pad goes on the inboard side (closest to the center console) and the hard pad goes on the outboard (closest to the drivers door) side.
To replace these, you will have to temporarily remove the clutch helper spring. If you are a 996->997 owner, you may have removed the clutch spring on your 996 in the past and know what to do. If not, you need to research removing the clutch spring in various 996 forums. It's simple, but the key thing is to lock the spring FIRST before removing it by inserting a sturdy nail, pin or small screwdriver in the eye hole located on the metal extension behind the spring. I used a heavy duty cotter pin and it worked, but a thin hanging nail for instance will not - it will bend, allowing the spring to extend too much. This spring, while small, is very strong.
Not locking this spring first will result in the spring coming apart violently, which you don't want. It's also easier to complete if you disconnect the push rod for the clutch master itself from the back of the clutch pedal - this too is held in place with a simple dowel pin and clip. Removing this allows for easy manipulation of the clutch pedal, as well as an extra mm or so for space to work. If you do not do this, the clutch pedal will be VERY hard to modulate with your hands as you no longer have the clutch spring assisting you during this procedure. Once you have the helper spring "locked" with the aforementioned nail or pin, you can simply depress the clutch pedal and gently pry the helper spring eyelet and dowel pin end from the clutch pedal.
You can remove the old rubber and plastic stops with a small but long screwdriver or pliers. To install the new ones, I used a long slender screwdriver with a wadded up Benda-a-roo kindly borrowed from my wee daughter (though double sided tape or something like this will work) and the new stop stuck to the end of it. There isn't enough space for to push them into place with your fingers or a pliers. Be sure not to push too hard to get it into place or you can damage the new stop, negating the fix. Just get it seated in the hole, then something with a square or round head so as not to gouge or dig into the new stop to seat it (I was able to just wiggle my index finger up to press it home firmly).
While you have things apart, it's a good idea to lube the two dowel pins as well - the source if 99% of clutch pedal squeak (to me it's much more of a creak during disengagement) is due to the main dowel pin that secures the helper spring to the clutch pedal itself. This is the dowel pin you will want to lube very well, and in sticking with what works, I'm using OEM grease which is rather fancy, but is what Porsche uses on the clutch pedal bits (I imagine you can use any decent grease but I stuck with a known quantity).
Part # for the grease is 000 043 206 17
If anyone would like some help with this, don't hesitate to PM me - I will write up a "how-to" if there is enough demand. Please note that I will be on 2 wheels for some much needed alone time for the next week so if I don't respond to you don't worry - I will when I return.
I'm lucky enough to have a 987 S as well, which has proven quite handy when tracing issues on either car - the Boxster is a 2007 and nearly brand new while my C2S is a 2005 and has many miles. Both cars are nearly identical from the doors forward (excepting the bumper and some other minor things).
The small issue was simple - at the very end of the clutch pedal return, the pedal would pop suddenly - not much, but perhaps 5mm or so of distance that felt abrupt. My 987 does not do this and they share identical clutch pedal and assembly part #s. I began to dig into things and discovered that there are two small rubber stops within the clutch pedal cage, where the top of the clutch pedal rests when engaged (that is, not pushed in).
One of these little rubber pads is very soft, and the other is firm, more like plastic than rubber. They are also slightly different thicknesses. The very fact that these two little rubber stops are so similar yet so different told me I was on the right path - there is a design here that is very intentional.
My original rubber/plastic stops were grooved...so much so that that the clutch pedal was traveling up into these grooves in the pads enough that the helper spring assembly was popping a bit, and this is what you feel in the clutch pedal as a pop. This happens in the last 1/2 inch of travel if you have it. Essentially, I no longer had these stops - they were there, but ineffective and worn out.
Replacing these two little pads fixed it entirely - here are the part #s in case you too have this issue.
997 423 695 00
997 423 697 00
The softer pad goes on the inboard side (closest to the center console) and the hard pad goes on the outboard (closest to the drivers door) side.
To replace these, you will have to temporarily remove the clutch helper spring. If you are a 996->997 owner, you may have removed the clutch spring on your 996 in the past and know what to do. If not, you need to research removing the clutch spring in various 996 forums. It's simple, but the key thing is to lock the spring FIRST before removing it by inserting a sturdy nail, pin or small screwdriver in the eye hole located on the metal extension behind the spring. I used a heavy duty cotter pin and it worked, but a thin hanging nail for instance will not - it will bend, allowing the spring to extend too much. This spring, while small, is very strong.
Not locking this spring first will result in the spring coming apart violently, which you don't want. It's also easier to complete if you disconnect the push rod for the clutch master itself from the back of the clutch pedal - this too is held in place with a simple dowel pin and clip. Removing this allows for easy manipulation of the clutch pedal, as well as an extra mm or so for space to work. If you do not do this, the clutch pedal will be VERY hard to modulate with your hands as you no longer have the clutch spring assisting you during this procedure. Once you have the helper spring "locked" with the aforementioned nail or pin, you can simply depress the clutch pedal and gently pry the helper spring eyelet and dowel pin end from the clutch pedal.
You can remove the old rubber and plastic stops with a small but long screwdriver or pliers. To install the new ones, I used a long slender screwdriver with a wadded up Benda-a-roo kindly borrowed from my wee daughter (though double sided tape or something like this will work) and the new stop stuck to the end of it. There isn't enough space for to push them into place with your fingers or a pliers. Be sure not to push too hard to get it into place or you can damage the new stop, negating the fix. Just get it seated in the hole, then something with a square or round head so as not to gouge or dig into the new stop to seat it (I was able to just wiggle my index finger up to press it home firmly).
While you have things apart, it's a good idea to lube the two dowel pins as well - the source if 99% of clutch pedal squeak (to me it's much more of a creak during disengagement) is due to the main dowel pin that secures the helper spring to the clutch pedal itself. This is the dowel pin you will want to lube very well, and in sticking with what works, I'm using OEM grease which is rather fancy, but is what Porsche uses on the clutch pedal bits (I imagine you can use any decent grease but I stuck with a known quantity).
Part # for the grease is 000 043 206 17
If anyone would like some help with this, don't hesitate to PM me - I will write up a "how-to" if there is enough demand. Please note that I will be on 2 wheels for some much needed alone time for the next week so if I don't respond to you don't worry - I will when I return.
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Goose 993 (11-30-2023)
12-21-2011, 07:27 PM
#4
Three Wheelin'
Thanks for posting, I had this same issue years ago with my 1995, 993 the clutch was replaced and symptom continued until. Finally, someone told me about a lever on the clutch pedal that required replacing, so nothing to loose made the change and this took care of this annoying issue for under $20.00.
03-03-2012, 05:20 AM
#5
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I just replaced these two rubber stoppers tonight. It completely fixed my clutch popping at the top of the pedal stroke. Thanks, I would have never known about this if I didn't find your thread.
