I looked into this when I did my GT3 lower arms but I receive good advice not to do solid bushing if I plan on useing the car a lot on the street. My 09 997S is a true dual purpose street and track car so I did not do solid bushings.

 

Roger that, I don't want anymore understeer.

 

Bruse I should add that for the street and beginning DE's you will be fine with the change in the cars track width but through the years as you get better and better you will not want this much track at the rear. At least that is my take on things and what I've been told and see from studying GT3 race car set ups.

 

Based on your and Mdrums opinions I reverted work order to do LCAs install instead of upper mounts. Parts will come at $750 total. Labor is comparable to yours.

So, you still advice on -2.3/-2 front/rear camber as good for street/race? Or would -2.7/-2.2 be better?

 

really depends on the track you run, tires you use and sometimes driving style. The best way would be something like my set up or Ron's and then go take tire temps next time you are at the track.

My set up is:

FRONT -per side-
-2 camber
.02 toes

REAR -per side-
-1.8 camber
.12 toe

 

My alignment is posted elsewhere, a search will find it. -2.3 front, -2.1 rear if I remember correctly. Perfect street / track. I do about 50/50 miles and in 21000 miles on 3 Porsche 997 cars with that alignment the wear was perfect, steering was crisp, understeer was in check (just a little for safety valve), etc.

 

You guys are priceless, thanks a bunch - will keep you posted, hopefully will bring in my car to get this LCA set installed next Friday.

I am still nursing an idea to get also PSS 10 set installed and buy new set of rims with R-comps, but it is a bit too much for now. Probably will let this rest until end or mid next season.

BTW, will 996 LCAs allow me to use 9" front rims? Do they actually increase available clearance allowing wider front rims to be used or are they essentially same as stock ones?

 

Yes you can use 9" wide fronts...either stock or with LCA's. I have been useinf 9x18 and 12x18 for years. I totally understand how this can get expensive but for wheels and tires look into a set of CCW's, these cost new around $2800 or you will see used pop up on the forums for around $2000 and Frisby Race tire has a deal on Toyo RA1's 245-40-18 and 305-35-18's for $791.

 

yep, money printing machine would be quite handy to have... It`s close to $7-8K total to get proper suspension done with proper tires. It will take some time to stash so much dough away from my wifey so she would not notice.

 

Yep I know how that works.
$1400 LCA's
$2800 new wheels
$799 tires
$800 Pagid Pads
There is $5800 right there.....arrrrgh!

 

Right now is not such a bad time to be buying. RA1s are half price at Frisby for about $850 shaved and delivered and you can get a nice set of 18" OZ wheels (very light) at Tire Rack for about $1500.

 

I also thought about Alleggeritas but all tirerack has is 18x8.5 and 18x11. Or may be it is what their selection web page only shows. Go figure. Very annoying stuff.

 

You can get 12" rears, you just have to trick their system and ask for GT3 wheels. I prefer the 8.5 front and 11 rear and find them just right for the 245/305 tires I run.

 

BTW, what about shaving on RA-1 tires - is it really required for them only? I do not thin k I heard if people shave off Toyos R888? Why to do it to RA-1?

 

Lots of posts on shave vs. not. Basically, the RA1 performs better shaved from 8/32 to 5/32. If using as a rain tire, keep at 8/32.