Brake Disc / Pad Change
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Folks,
Can't find anything specific so figured I'd ask:
I'm going to change the front discs / pads on the 05 Carrera (non-S) this coming weekend. I've changed disc's / pads before on many bimmers and my old 944 Turbo so feel more-or-less comfortable with the overall level of difficulty. However, just as a heads-up, are there any special tools I would need? Anything to watch out for specifically? Moreover, are there any guides / write-up's out there that could help?
The dealer cost to change seems dis-proportionally high vs. the cost of the parts (albeit sourcing online for OEM) so just wondering if I'm missing something or they're just outrageously expensive per hour here in Switzerland.
Thanks for any advice or comment,
Gary.
Can't find anything specific so figured I'd ask:
I'm going to change the front discs / pads on the 05 Carrera (non-S) this coming weekend. I've changed disc's / pads before on many bimmers and my old 944 Turbo so feel more-or-less comfortable with the overall level of difficulty. However, just as a heads-up, are there any special tools I would need? Anything to watch out for specifically? Moreover, are there any guides / write-up's out there that could help?
The dealer cost to change seems dis-proportionally high vs. the cost of the parts (albeit sourcing online for OEM) so just wondering if I'm missing something or they're just outrageously expensive per hour here in Switzerland.
Thanks for any advice or comment,
Gary.
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Best,
Gary.
Edit : To be specific though - no, I haven't physically measured the run-off.
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Perhaps I asked the wrong question or the right question in the wrong way so ... ![Smilie](https://rennlist.com/forums/images/smilies/smile.gif)
Do I need any special Porsche tools to change the discs and pads?
I've order the discs/pads and they should be here in the coming days - looking forward to changing them since the dashboard has now signaled they need doing and it's beginning to bug me!
Gary.
![Smilie](https://rennlist.com/forums/images/smilies/smile.gif)
Do I need any special Porsche tools to change the discs and pads?
I've order the discs/pads and they should be here in the coming days - looking forward to changing them since the dashboard has now signaled they need doing and it's beginning to bug me!
Gary.
car has 122K (Kms); I've owned it for 2 months and don't know if the rotors have been changed before (doubt it to be honest). I could probably get away with just pads since I'm not tracking it / riding hard or anything but a local friend / mechanic has confirmed that the rotors should be replaced when he put my new PS2's on it.
Best,
Gary.
Edit : To be specific though - no, I haven't physically measured the run-off.
Best,
Gary.
Edit : To be specific though - no, I haven't physically measured the run-off.
#5
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The components of the brake pads are in order from the rotor out.
1. pad
2. backing plate glued to pad, thin metal.
3. disc that is glued to backing plate, also thin metal. has fingers that push into the piston
4. piston with indentation for disc fingers.
Pads can not be taken out without seperating the disc from the backing plate.
Turn the wheel so as to see the inside of the caliper assembly.
take a thin metal blade, ( not a screwdriver, too thick )a gasket remover tool is good, and slide it between the disc and the backing plate. Careful not to get behind the disc and get the fingers.
Seperate the two. there are 2 discs per wheel/per side of rotor.
After seperating, pull the pads out and reassemble using new discs and pads.
Beware the discs fingers on the rear are different sizes top and bottom of the caliper. Outer demensions are the same.
Good luck , sorry I have no pictures.
Mark
1. pad
2. backing plate glued to pad, thin metal.
3. disc that is glued to backing plate, also thin metal. has fingers that push into the piston
4. piston with indentation for disc fingers.
Pads can not be taken out without seperating the disc from the backing plate.
Turn the wheel so as to see the inside of the caliper assembly.
take a thin metal blade, ( not a screwdriver, too thick )a gasket remover tool is good, and slide it between the disc and the backing plate. Careful not to get behind the disc and get the fingers.
Seperate the two. there are 2 discs per wheel/per side of rotor.
After seperating, pull the pads out and reassemble using new discs and pads.
Beware the discs fingers on the rear are different sizes top and bottom of the caliper. Outer demensions are the same.
Good luck , sorry I have no pictures.
Mark
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Thanks very much for this Mark
Didn't realise the backing plates had to be seperated before pad withdrawal. Hope that won't cause an issue putting the pads back in (especially since I will be changing the rotors also hence maximum thickness all round) ...
I presume that since I'm changing the rotors also, I'll have to unbolt and hang the calipers too - would this make the pad removal easier or should I just do the pads first as you describe before going anywhere near the caliper?
Best,
Gary.
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I presume that since I'm changing the rotors also, I'll have to unbolt and hang the calipers too - would this make the pad removal easier or should I just do the pads first as you describe before going anywhere near the caliper?
Best,
Gary.
The components of the brake pads are in order from the rotor out.
1. pad
2. backing plate glued to pad, thin metal.
3. disc that is glued to backing plate, also thin metal. has fingers that push into the piston
4. piston with indentation for disc fingers.
Pads can not be taken out without seperating the disc from the backing plate.
Turn the wheel so as to see the inside of the caliper assembly.
take a thin metal blade, ( not a screwdriver, too thick )a gasket remover tool is good, and slide it between the disc and the backing plate. Careful not to get behind the disc and get the fingers.
Seperate the two. there are 2 discs per wheel/per side of rotor.
After seperating, pull the pads out and reassemble using new discs and pads.
Beware the discs fingers on the rear are different sizes top and bottom of the caliper. Outer demensions are the same.
Good luck , sorry I have no pictures.
Mark
1. pad
2. backing plate glued to pad, thin metal.
3. disc that is glued to backing plate, also thin metal. has fingers that push into the piston
4. piston with indentation for disc fingers.
Pads can not be taken out without seperating the disc from the backing plate.
Turn the wheel so as to see the inside of the caliper assembly.
take a thin metal blade, ( not a screwdriver, too thick )a gasket remover tool is good, and slide it between the disc and the backing plate. Careful not to get behind the disc and get the fingers.
Seperate the two. there are 2 discs per wheel/per side of rotor.
After seperating, pull the pads out and reassemble using new discs and pads.
Beware the discs fingers on the rear are different sizes top and bottom of the caliper. Outer demensions are the same.
Good luck , sorry I have no pictures.
Mark
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you don't have to remove the backing plates - but the vibration dampeners glued to the backing plates. the dampeners need to be wedged off with something like a putty knife. you have to work at them and when you think it doesn't seem like the best way to do it, you'll know you're doing it correctly
i did not replace the dampeners on my car since i swap pads for track days and they're a pain and i don't notice they're missing.
in summary, it's very straightforward, you shouldn't have any problems. hope this helps.
![Smilie](https://rennlist.com/forums/images/smilies/smile.gif)
i did not replace the dampeners on my car since i swap pads for track days and they're a pain and i don't notice they're missing.
in summary, it's very straightforward, you shouldn't have any problems. hope this helps.
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Thanks Brendorenn
This means that if I wanted to put the dampeners back on, I'd have to glue them? The Brake Kit I've bought comes with anti-vibration dampers but didn't mention glue or bonding material of any sort ...
Gary.
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Gary.
you don't have to remove the backing plates - but the vibration dampeners glued to the backing plates. the dampeners need to be wedged off with something like a putty knife. you have to work at them and when you think it doesn't seem like the best way to do it, you'll know you're doing it correctly
i did not replace the dampeners on my car since i swap pads for track days and they're a pain and i don't notice they're missing.
in summary, it's very straightforward, you shouldn't have any problems. hope this helps.
![Smilie](https://rennlist.com/forums/images/smilies/smile.gif)
i did not replace the dampeners on my car since i swap pads for track days and they're a pain and i don't notice they're missing.
in summary, it's very straightforward, you shouldn't have any problems. hope this helps.
Last edited by Gary; 05-20-2009 at 08:27 AM.
#10
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You can take the caliper off with the rotors but if the lip on the rotor is too deep this will not work.
The disc come with adhesive backing
Before assembly take a large channel lock pliers and push the pistons back into the caliper.
peel off the adhesive cover and place the discs in the piston indentations. Remember the discs are different
put the pads in and then use the brake pedal to set the pads against the discs
The disc come with adhesive backing
Before assembly take a large channel lock pliers and push the pistons back into the caliper.
peel off the adhesive cover and place the discs in the piston indentations. Remember the discs are different
put the pads in and then use the brake pedal to set the pads against the discs
#11
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Reinstalling the old dampeners with new pads has resulted in some bad situations - IE wrinkled/jammed to the point the pad turned white and the caliper brown.
Just be careful and if installing track pads - use only the pads and no damping stuff.
Just be careful and if installing track pads - use only the pads and no damping stuff.