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porsche extended warranty worth it?

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Old 05-29-2014, 05:40 PM
  #31  
fbfisher
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#1: If you have to ask "is it worth it?" It probably is. Kind of like if you have to ask what it costs, you can't afford it.

#2: This issue of "I'd rather put it in the bank rather than prepaying expenses that may never occur" is an interesting one, given that you'd probably earn less than 0.05% on your money in the bank, but inflation has been running at 2%-3% so it could be argued that paying in advance is a better deal.

#3: CPO does not mean that the car has been certified to have been pre-owned and passed an inspection. It means that it comes with a factory warranty. Porsche CPO is 6 years/100,000 miles from the original in-service date, or 2 years/100,000 miles, which ever is greater.

#4: If/when something needs to be fixed, it can get very expensive, very quick. Do you financially care? If so, you need protection.

#5: I bought an aftermarket extended warranty on my 993. Given that it paid for my engine to be completely rebuilt by a Porsche dealer ($22K), along with all of the other smaller issues (steering rack, etc.) I was happy with my decision to buy the warranty - which was sold to me by the same Porsche dealer. In the 13 months and 8,000 miles I drove my GTS, I didn't get to test the CPO because it was also covered by the original factory warranty - and the issues were so minor I can't remember what they were.

#6: The best way to know if the extended warranty will pay is to talk to the service manager where you intend to have your car repaired. They will tell you which is the best one to use.

#7: See #1.
Old 05-29-2014, 06:07 PM
  #32  
bgrpph
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i bought fidelity platinum for former 02 996C2- few minor items covered + RMS which was a big cost- it also helped with re-sale-
got same Fidelity coverage for wife's 07 BoxsterS few yrs back- from Sunset in Oregon at good price- addt'l 6yrs- so far only used for few minor items- nice not worrying about RMS or IMS issues on her car-
just got Fidelity Platinum coverage for my 07 997TT - again from Sunset Porsche in Oregon at decent discount. Debated on it for TT, decided having coverage for addt'l 6 yrs was worth $4300 cost.
I would go for much more than 2 yr coverage if buying AM warranty- i'd go for 5 or 6 yr coverage with $250 ded- it may help with resale if you don't keep car beyond few yrs.
Old 05-29-2014, 08:26 PM
  #33  
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I upgraded from an '07 C4s to a '10 C2s last Jul. The factory warranty ended on Nov 10 2013. In Feb a member here had a PDK failure. $12-14k but he had insurance. I promptly bought a Platinum coverage thru my dealership. One month later my $2500 PCM Locked up and became unusable. The warranty has almost paid for it self. I sleep well, drive it like I stole it, don't worry about center radiator (don't have one) or anything else really. Very reliable cars but when they break it is $$$! I highly recommend one if you don't have CPO.
Old 05-31-2014, 12:59 AM
  #34  
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I just bought an Endurance exclusionary policy for $2,884.00/$200 deductible. The warranty is good until 61k miles or 4 more years. I currently have a 2009 C2S with 35k miles. I drive my car less than 5k miles a year. For me, the time frame is more important than the miles. Is this a good deal? I have 30 days for a full refund.

BTW: My car is still under CPO warranty until Dec 2014
Old 05-31-2014, 10:14 AM
  #35  
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Originally Posted by Robocop305
I just bought an Endurance exclusionary policy for $2,884.00/$200 deductible. The warranty is good until 61k miles or 4 more years. I currently have a 2009 C2S with 35k miles. I drive my car less than 5k miles a year. For me, the time frame is more important than the miles. Is this a good deal? I have 30 days for a full refund.

BTW: My car is still under CPO warranty until Dec 2014
Just curious - if you are under CPO till December, why would not wait till December to buy it? Or does it start as the CPO expires?
Old 05-31-2014, 11:06 AM
  #36  
Robocop305
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Originally Posted by shammerman
Just curious - if you are under CPO till December, why would not wait till December to buy it? Or does it start as the CPO expires?
It's usually cheaper to get an extended warranty when you have existing warranty. It may be more expensive in December since the car will have more miles, older and you never know if they would even cover our cars. I contacted a few companies and they didn't cover my car. I still need to wait 30 days or 1000 miles before I'm able to used the warranty. I only drive my car less than 4000 miles a year.
Old 05-31-2014, 12:36 PM
  #37  
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Originally Posted by Robocop305
It's usually cheaper to get an extended warranty when you have existing warranty. It may be more expensive in December since the car will have more miles, older and you never know if they would even cover our cars. I contacted a few companies and they didn't cover my car. I still need to wait 30 days or 1000 miles before I'm able to used the warranty. I only drive my car less than 4000 miles a year.
I have to pull the trigger on mine soon as well. Have plenty of time, but miles are getting close to 40K. Most likely going with CNA. About 3K for four years 75K miles with $200 deductible.
Old 05-31-2014, 01:24 PM
  #38  
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So far so good. Purchased a $4k, $250 deductible, 3yr/36k Fidelity platinum warranty and a 2008 Mercedes G500 with 55k miles from Stevens Creek Porsche. I got the Fidelity warranty based on Rennlist recommendations. Cost of insurance seemed high but I was happy with the combined vehicle purchase price and warranty for this higher mileage g-wagon.

After almost two years and less than 10k miles, I took it to RAB Motors here in Marin to address three issues. A Fidelity rep had to visit the dealer a couple times to approve the repairs. But it was all covered under warranty including a Mercedes loaner. Love RAB Motors by the way. Total repairs would have been $2k.
Old 05-31-2014, 02:34 PM
  #39  
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Originally Posted by shammerman
I have to pull the trigger on mine soon as well. Have plenty of time, but miles are getting close to 40K. Most likely going with CNA. About 3K for four years 75K miles with $200 deductible.
Where can you purchase CNA warranty? Online? dealer?
Old 05-31-2014, 05:57 PM
  #40  
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I bought a $2900 4yr/48K mile plan with a $100 deductible through my dealer. No outside approvals necessary for warranty work and they offered it with an 18 month payment plan at 0% interest. It's pretty much pain-free with automatic payments so it was a no-brainer for me.
Old 05-31-2014, 07:14 PM
  #41  
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Originally Posted by BrakingBad
I bought a $2900 4yr/48K mile plan with a $100 deductible through my dealer. No outside approvals necessary for warranty work and they offered it with an 18 month payment plan at 0% interest. It's pretty much pain-free with automatic payments so it was a no-brainer for me.
Which insurance company? name of dealership?
Old 06-01-2014, 02:24 AM
  #42  
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Originally Posted by BrakingBad
I bought a $2900 4yr/48K mile plan with a $100 deductible through my dealer. No outside approvals necessary for warranty work and they offered it with an 18 month payment plan at 0% interest. It's pretty much pain-free with automatic payments so it was a no-brainer for me.
Yes, tell us more. What year is you car? Mileage? Insurance company name? Thanks
Old 06-01-2014, 12:30 PM
  #43  
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I used to work in the extended service contract business. There are a lot of misconceptions here.
These are just insurance products. As such, the issuing companies have stats they use to determine what their average cost will be to fix any make or model. The business model is that they will pay out 100% of premiums received in claims. Read that again, 100%. Their profits come from the income they make while holding that money in between. This is regulated in most states and has to be proven to that state's insurance commission.
The premium paid in most states is actually 50% of the retail cost. Here in Florida, we are a "filed rate" state. The retail customer must be charged the filed rate by law. That rate is 50% premium and 50% profit for the seller (dealer.) it's. 100% markup. Most states follow this model.
So if you paid 2k for your extended service contract, the issuing company got $1000 as the premium, which they are betting they will have to pay out in claims over the life of the contract. The dealer pockets the other $1000 as profit.

In the case of the 997.1, I'd buy the extended service contract. I was quoted $2200 from the Porsche dealer yesterday for 3 years (up to 100k miles) coverage. One claim and it will probably pay for itself. Heck, drive it like you stole it and HOPE the IMS fails.
Old 06-01-2014, 01:40 PM
  #44  
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Originally Posted by Robocop305
Yes, tell us more. What year is you car? Mileage? Insurance company name? Thanks
No insurance company. The plan is through my local dealership network (same owner several brands). Price is based on model, mileage, and a PPI like thorough inspection. The point is to shop around. There may be better options available to you than Porsche's CPO plan.
Old 06-01-2014, 11:29 PM
  #45  
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Always remember that extended warranties are loaded in the insurance company's favor. Always. If you are really good at decyphering a contract, get ahold of the various extended warranties from Porsche dealers and go over them thoroughly. You will be amazed what they will NOT cover. If you actually DRIVE your car you may get a portion of the investment back. If you let the time period lapse before the mileage side does you got nothing for your investment.

The wiser money is on a bank account. Take every dollar that you would have put into an extended warranty and be disciplined enough to save it, and never touch it until you need it--and you will need it. And you won't have some shady extended warranty guy telling you this and that isn't covered.

I have Easy Care that was available from my dealership when I got my car and it has only paid out a little. For example, it pays for wheel and tire insurance--but the conditions under which they are obligated to pay is all in their favor. They did pick up the tab on a clutch slave recently for me, but they would absolutely not pay for things that were clearly a part failure or even a known factory assembly latent defect.

Go with the savings account route, and save yourself some headaches.


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