Brake Fluid
10-22-2008, 02:44 PM
#1
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Brake Fluid
I'm going to bleed the brakes. The Porsche manual, of course, says use only Porsche brake fluid. On searching, I see many people use others: e.g., ATE Gold, ATE Blue, Motul 600, Castrol SRF, etc. Questions:
1) Are these compatible with the factory fill fluid, so that a complete, total purge of the original fluid is not required (cuz without a PIWIS, some fluid remains in the ABS)?
2) If I don't plan on tracking the car (but, you never know), is there any reason to NOT use a higher boiling point fluid? Seems like a higher boiling point fluid would be better than a lower BP fluid. Other than Castrol SRF, price of all these is not much different from Porsche fluid. In other words, are there any disadvantages (other than cost) to using a higher boiling point fluid in a daily driver?
Thanks,
Jim
1) Are these compatible with the factory fill fluid, so that a complete, total purge of the original fluid is not required (cuz without a PIWIS, some fluid remains in the ABS)?
2) If I don't plan on tracking the car (but, you never know), is there any reason to NOT use a higher boiling point fluid? Seems like a higher boiling point fluid would be better than a lower BP fluid. Other than Castrol SRF, price of all these is not much different from Porsche fluid. In other words, are there any disadvantages (other than cost) to using a higher boiling point fluid in a daily driver?
Thanks,
Jim
10-22-2008, 03:28 PM
#2
Rennlist Member
If you're not going to track the car I would stick with the OEM fluid as its unlikely to get hot enough to make a difference. For track work with threshold breaking, there is nothing better than SRF. I personally use Motul as it is much cheaper and still has very high wet and dry boiling points.
10-22-2008, 06:06 PM
#4
Rennlist Member
There is no problem using another brand of brake fluid as long as it's DOT 4 approved. I too use ATE 200, but have switched over from the super blue to the gold. Same formula, just easier to see the bubbles when bleeding.
10-22-2008, 09:54 PM
#5
Race Director
If you're not going to track the car I would stick with the OEM fluid as its unlikely to get hot enough to make a difference. For track work with threshold breaking, there is nothing better than SRF. I personally use Motul as it is much cheaper and still has very high wet and dry boiling points.
Stay away for Super Blue..it is junk and for the price you can't beat the Motul.
10-22-2008, 10:28 PM
#6
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Let's put it this way, you're gonna flush and refill the brake system right?
You may as well use the higher-end brake fluids at this point. Use the SRF or other "track-type" fluids and you'll be happy.
I've flushed systems with 90+% IPA (alcohol) prior to adding fluid, this way, it's as clean as can be.
I've heard the "blue" will stain the brake reservoir.
Regards,
Deanski
You may as well use the higher-end brake fluids at this point. Use the SRF or other "track-type" fluids and you'll be happy.
I've flushed systems with 90+% IPA (alcohol) prior to adding fluid, this way, it's as clean as can be.
I've heard the "blue" will stain the brake reservoir.
Regards,
Deanski
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10-23-2008, 02:18 PM
#9
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FWIW, the Ford Heavy Duty Brake Fluid is as good as Motul if you can't find Motul. Yes, Ford.
I have been using Motul for a very long time. No need for SRF since its price of my kidney.
I have been using Motul for a very long time. No need for SRF since its price of my kidney.
10-23-2008, 02:51 PM
#10
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I'm going to bleed the brakes. The Porsche manual, of course, says use only Porsche brake fluid. On searching, I see many people use others: e.g., ATE Gold, ATE Blue, Motul 600, Castrol SRF, etc. Questions:
1) Are these compatible with the factory fill fluid, so that a complete, total purge of the original fluid is not required (cuz without a PIWIS, some fluid remains in the ABS)?
2) If I don't plan on tracking the car (but, you never know), is there any reason to NOT use a higher boiling point fluid? Seems like a higher boiling point fluid would be better than a lower BP fluid. Other than Castrol SRF, price of all these is not much different from Porsche fluid. In other words, are there any disadvantages (other than cost) to using a higher boiling point fluid in a daily driver?
Thanks,
Jim
1) Are these compatible with the factory fill fluid, so that a complete, total purge of the original fluid is not required (cuz without a PIWIS, some fluid remains in the ABS)?
2) If I don't plan on tracking the car (but, you never know), is there any reason to NOT use a higher boiling point fluid? Seems like a higher boiling point fluid would be better than a lower BP fluid. Other than Castrol SRF, price of all these is not much different from Porsche fluid. In other words, are there any disadvantages (other than cost) to using a higher boiling point fluid in a daily driver?
Thanks,
Jim
10-23-2008, 03:57 PM
#11
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Yes, the Ford DOT 3 Heavy Duty fluid is decent in terms of dry boiling point, but it drops quickly in terms of wet boiling point.
Briefly, for others, dry boiling point is the temperature in F when the brake fluid starts boiling when the fluid is fresh, without moisture. However, because brake fluid is hydroscopic, it will absorb moisture (thus why we change it frequently). When the fluid absorbs moisture, its effective boiling point is now referred to as the wet boiling point.
It should be presumed that unless the fluid has just been installed, the car is operating with moisture in its brake fluid and thus the wet boiling point needs to be strongly considered.
Comparing the Ford fluid with the Motol 600, you'll see the dry boiling points are very close to each other, however the wet boiling point of the Ford fluid is considerably lower:
Ford Heavy Duty DOT 3 -- 550/290
ATE Super Blue Racing -- 536/392
ATE TYP 200 -- 536/392
Motul Racing 600 -- 585/421
Castrol SRF -- 590/518
Considering the pricing of the Motul 600, I don't think you can go wrong using it.
Just FYI.
10-24-2008, 05:39 PM
#12
Rennlist Member
Well, this needs to be clarified a bit.
Yes, the Ford DOT 3 Heavy Duty fluid is decent in terms of dry boiling point, but it drops quickly in terms of wet boiling point.
Briefly, for others, dry boiling point is the temperature in F when the brake fluid starts boiling when the fluid is fresh, without moisture. However, because brake fluid is hydroscopic, it will absorb moisture (thus why we change it frequently). When the fluid absorbs moisture, its effective boiling point is now referred to as the wet boiling point.
It should be presumed that unless the fluid has just been installed, the car is operating with moisture in its brake fluid and thus the wet boiling point needs to be strongly considered.
Comparing the Ford fluid with the Motol 600, you'll see the dry boiling points are very close to each other, however the wet boiling point of the Ford fluid is considerably lower:
Ford Heavy Duty DOT 3 -- 550/290
ATE Super Blue Racing -- 536/392
ATE TYP 200 -- 536/392
Motul Racing 600 -- 585/421
Castrol SRF -- 590/518
Considering the pricing of the Motul 600, I don't think you can go wrong using it.
Just FYI.
Yes, the Ford DOT 3 Heavy Duty fluid is decent in terms of dry boiling point, but it drops quickly in terms of wet boiling point.
Briefly, for others, dry boiling point is the temperature in F when the brake fluid starts boiling when the fluid is fresh, without moisture. However, because brake fluid is hydroscopic, it will absorb moisture (thus why we change it frequently). When the fluid absorbs moisture, its effective boiling point is now referred to as the wet boiling point.
It should be presumed that unless the fluid has just been installed, the car is operating with moisture in its brake fluid and thus the wet boiling point needs to be strongly considered.
Comparing the Ford fluid with the Motol 600, you'll see the dry boiling points are very close to each other, however the wet boiling point of the Ford fluid is considerably lower:
Ford Heavy Duty DOT 3 -- 550/290
ATE Super Blue Racing -- 536/392
ATE TYP 200 -- 536/392
Motul Racing 600 -- 585/421
Castrol SRF -- 590/518
Considering the pricing of the Motul 600, I don't think you can go wrong using it.
Just FYI.
10-28-2008, 09:17 PM
#14
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I like and use Motul this is the cheapest place I can find 13.95 a btl. http://www.oneidasuzuki.com/store/pa...ake-fluid.html
No affiliation, just a interested consumer.
No affiliation, just a interested consumer.
10-28-2008, 11:48 PM
#15
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Check with your service department. SRF and other high end fluids can erode the seals (and void warranty)
If you use the brakes properly, then the OEM fluid should do the job. If you need more braking, you need a Cup Car, because you are beyond the limits of the whole car!
If you use the brakes properly, then the OEM fluid should do the job. If you need more braking, you need a Cup Car, because you are beyond the limits of the whole car!