Question about ZAINO use
#1
Three Wheelin'
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Hi guys - After many recommendations from friends on "rennlist," i decided to purchase these products. I bought the ZAIO and clear seal, and would like to apply them this coming weekend to my 2008 Porsche CarreraS. I don't have any sort of clear bra or film on the car, but as you know, there is that stock film on the rear of the car, on the fenders in front of each rear tire. Are these products generally also supposed to be applied to this area / film? Any advice would be appreciated. Thanks
#4
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Zaino will make your Basalt Black Carrera S look amazing.
Don't give a second thought to using it on the factory film.
I've got a couple of Black cars and have used Zaino stuff for years, but I've recently tried and liked Rejex, a similar product but actually easier to use.
Don't give a second thought to using it on the factory film.
I've got a couple of Black cars and have used Zaino stuff for years, but I've recently tried and liked Rejex, a similar product but actually easier to use.
#5
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1) Wash cars finish with an alkaline detergent such as Dawn, Meguiars APC diluted etc. This will strip any wax.
2) Clay the finish
3) polish the finish, you want it to be free of any marring period.
4) If using Z5-Pro and or Z2-Pro use ZFX with it. Mix up 1 oz of Z5-Pro or Z2-Pro and 5 drops of ZFX in mixing bottle. Shake really well. For added effects, I add a small "spritz" of Z8 Grand Finale detail spray to the mix. Mix well, let site for a few minutes.
5) spray the finish with Z6 detail spray prior to application.
6) Apply mix with cotton applicator VERY VERY VERY thin. Let haze/cure fully, then wipe off. If you have streaks, you put on too much.
7) Spray again with Z6 between each coat (up to three a day).
8) Finish with Z8 Grand finale spray, very thin as well. Mist on fine. Wipe off.
9) Or, Use Zaino CS (Clear Seal). Apply, walk away, no buffing.
10) Maintain with Z7 wash.
11) QD with Z6 and for added effects on a day you want that deeper look, use Z8.
Z-CS is easier, a "wax on, walk away" application.
Z5/Z2 Pro as well as CS can be layered for more deeper, longer lasting protection.
Don't forget your wheels. Protects very well from brake dust.
Read tips and application techniques from Zaino website, or you can also see one website mostly dedicatd to Zaino at DETAILERSCLUB.COM
Regards,
Deanski
2) Clay the finish
3) polish the finish, you want it to be free of any marring period.
4) If using Z5-Pro and or Z2-Pro use ZFX with it. Mix up 1 oz of Z5-Pro or Z2-Pro and 5 drops of ZFX in mixing bottle. Shake really well. For added effects, I add a small "spritz" of Z8 Grand Finale detail spray to the mix. Mix well, let site for a few minutes.
5) spray the finish with Z6 detail spray prior to application.
6) Apply mix with cotton applicator VERY VERY VERY thin. Let haze/cure fully, then wipe off. If you have streaks, you put on too much.
7) Spray again with Z6 between each coat (up to three a day).
8) Finish with Z8 Grand finale spray, very thin as well. Mist on fine. Wipe off.
9) Or, Use Zaino CS (Clear Seal). Apply, walk away, no buffing.
10) Maintain with Z7 wash.
11) QD with Z6 and for added effects on a day you want that deeper look, use Z8.
Z-CS is easier, a "wax on, walk away" application.
Z5/Z2 Pro as well as CS can be layered for more deeper, longer lasting protection.
Don't forget your wheels. Protects very well from brake dust.
Read tips and application techniques from Zaino website, or you can also see one website mostly dedicatd to Zaino at DETAILERSCLUB.COM
Regards,
Deanski
#7
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Deanski knows of what he speaks. To avoid repetition, I deleted his list in my quote-reply above, but I have followed his advice in the past and love the results. So thanks Deanski for the listing again, I've wanted to PM you many times but refrained so as to not where out any welcome.
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#8
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#9
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Deanski knows of what he speaks. To avoid repetition, I deleted his list in my quote-reply above, but I have followed his advice in the past and love the results. So thanks Deanski for the listing again, I've wanted to PM you many times but refrained so as to not where out any welcome.
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Zaino full treatment can be a bit of an undertaking, but the results speak for themselves. The new Z-CS now removes the mixing of a product with ZFX. Just apply and walk-away.
On the other hand, black cars with a full Zaino application look just spectacular. Only problem as with most any sealants is that the finish HAS to be as free from defects as possible Most sealants will bring out the defect or highlight them due to the very clear nature of a sealant as opposed to a wax which can also fill and looks more warmer, muted look.
Some other sealants are very reflective and are great on silver or other light color finishes, but on dark finishes, it's way too reflective at least of my taste.
Which brings me to another point. Everyone may see a finish when a LSP (Last Step Product) in a different way. Some may not like the effect of a sealant or some do not like the wax look. To each his own. So please respect those that may have their own personal opinion as to how it looks.
What does reflect on whichever LSP you use (wax or sealant) is the finish prep and polish. The better and glossy the finish after polishing, the better the LSP will look.
I tell most everyone that finishes cars to spend the most time perfecting their polishing technique as anyone can apply a LSP. The better you can get the finish to look on it's own, the better the end results will be.
For show cars, this is what makes or breaks the chance of winning. Poor prep, both exterior and interior is when points get taken off for improper finishing techniques or sloppy skills. DOn't forget the other items that they judge besides the "look".
Regards,
Deanski
#10
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Deanski knows of what he speaks. To avoid repetition, I deleted his list in my quote-reply above, but I have followed his advice in the past and love the results. So thanks Deanski for the listing again, I've wanted to PM you many times but refrained so as to not where out any welcome.
I second that!!!!
#12
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OK, now you're all wondering about polishing and what to use etc.
First, if you do not do this often, you can do it two ways; one is by hand and the other my machine. By hand is more time consuming and can also be not as effective as machine.
However, a machine can also get you into trouble quicker as well.
So, for a novice, one can use a "PC" or Porter Cable random orbital polisher or and "real" random orbital polisher and not the ones you see with the big round fixed pads that use terry cloth bonnets.
Always learn on a junk part first. Obtain a hood and fender from a junk yard to hone your technique with both the machine, the pads used and the polishes and how they effect one another. You'll need pads ranging from cutting pads, polishing pads, finishing pads and LSP pads if using glaze/wax.
There are many outlets for "training": Autopia has a video CD, Griots also has one as well as Meguiars. Meguiars also holds detailing clinics for those on the west coast. I'm sure others will offer training as well.
As with most anything, start mild, work your way up.
A mild paint cleanser can be used both by hand or machine with good results on very mild marring or defects. I know one person that has done cars all by hand for many years with stunning results.
More swirls will take more aggressive polishes and pads to correct/remove these. And when you do this, you are abrading your clearcoat. You want to do this in a minimum fashion so not to get a polishing haze, which has to then be polished out to a high gloss.
Polishes are also subjective as well. Some work better than others, some cut faster then break down to a polish. Some clean, then polish, some just cut and some are finishing polishes.
One thing you need to stay away from are glazes if using a sealant as they are ONLY to be used if applying a wax. Most glaze contain oils and kaolin clay to fill any marring which works well for wax, but once the wax wears off, the glaze then starts to wear off and tada... there are those swirls again.
For myself since I use both a rotary and a "PC" for finish work, I use Menzerna polishes from Germany. Others like Mequiars, some use Optimum and others use some private label product. It's all in how you work the machine, pad and polish to get the results. There's not one miricle polish per se, but some do finish better than others.
So, start to practice on some other clearcoat panel on a junk part, before you touch the Porsche finish, which by the way is very soft and easy to correct any marring as opposed to much harder finishes.
Regards,
Deanski
First, if you do not do this often, you can do it two ways; one is by hand and the other my machine. By hand is more time consuming and can also be not as effective as machine.
However, a machine can also get you into trouble quicker as well.
So, for a novice, one can use a "PC" or Porter Cable random orbital polisher or and "real" random orbital polisher and not the ones you see with the big round fixed pads that use terry cloth bonnets.
Always learn on a junk part first. Obtain a hood and fender from a junk yard to hone your technique with both the machine, the pads used and the polishes and how they effect one another. You'll need pads ranging from cutting pads, polishing pads, finishing pads and LSP pads if using glaze/wax.
There are many outlets for "training": Autopia has a video CD, Griots also has one as well as Meguiars. Meguiars also holds detailing clinics for those on the west coast. I'm sure others will offer training as well.
As with most anything, start mild, work your way up.
A mild paint cleanser can be used both by hand or machine with good results on very mild marring or defects. I know one person that has done cars all by hand for many years with stunning results.
More swirls will take more aggressive polishes and pads to correct/remove these. And when you do this, you are abrading your clearcoat. You want to do this in a minimum fashion so not to get a polishing haze, which has to then be polished out to a high gloss.
Polishes are also subjective as well. Some work better than others, some cut faster then break down to a polish. Some clean, then polish, some just cut and some are finishing polishes.
One thing you need to stay away from are glazes if using a sealant as they are ONLY to be used if applying a wax. Most glaze contain oils and kaolin clay to fill any marring which works well for wax, but once the wax wears off, the glaze then starts to wear off and tada... there are those swirls again.
For myself since I use both a rotary and a "PC" for finish work, I use Menzerna polishes from Germany. Others like Mequiars, some use Optimum and others use some private label product. It's all in how you work the machine, pad and polish to get the results. There's not one miricle polish per se, but some do finish better than others.
So, start to practice on some other clearcoat panel on a junk part, before you touch the Porsche finish, which by the way is very soft and easy to correct any marring as opposed to much harder finishes.
Regards,
Deanski
#13
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Here's more on the Porter-Cable along with pads etc from a known good detail supply house:
http://properautocare.com/porcabpolac.html
Menzerna Finishing Polish for "Ceramiclear" finishes PO85RD, by far my favorite:
http://www.detailersdomain.com/index...ROD&ProdID=102
Menzerna 106FF, a bit more cut that 85RD, but finishes high gloss:
http://www.detailersdomain.com/index...PROD&ProdID=17
A little background on Menzerna from CMA: http://properautocare.com/aboutmenzerna.html
Need a good "German" pad for that polisher? :http://properautocare.com/grgipopadfor.html
Thought you all would like a bit more info. And no, I do not have any relation with any of these sites at all. Just use these to refer to for those starting out as they saved me the trouble of finding my documents.
Enjoy some reading!
Regards,
Deanski
http://properautocare.com/porcabpolac.html
Menzerna Finishing Polish for "Ceramiclear" finishes PO85RD, by far my favorite:
http://www.detailersdomain.com/index...ROD&ProdID=102
Menzerna 106FF, a bit more cut that 85RD, but finishes high gloss:
http://www.detailersdomain.com/index...PROD&ProdID=17
A little background on Menzerna from CMA: http://properautocare.com/aboutmenzerna.html
Need a good "German" pad for that polisher? :http://properautocare.com/grgipopadfor.html
Thought you all would like a bit more info. And no, I do not have any relation with any of these sites at all. Just use these to refer to for those starting out as they saved me the trouble of finding my documents.
Enjoy some reading!
Regards,
Deanski
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"Some other sealants are very reflective and are great on silver or other light color finishes..."
For us folks with these light colors.. from which brand have you seen the best results?
Deanski: nice tutorial. Even if you have every chemical, machine and type of rag, it's always good to review proper process.
For us folks with these light colors.. from which brand have you seen the best results?
Deanski: nice tutorial. Even if you have every chemical, machine and type of rag, it's always good to review proper process.
#15
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Picture taken with Sony Cybershot and no touch up.
When I use it all up I am going to try the Zaino.
Deanski what is you feeling about what towels to use?
Cheers
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