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Help...New Garage Flooring

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Old 01-02-2008, 09:56 AM
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mzn50
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Default Help...New Garage Flooring

Hello.. I have built a new garage for his and her's P-Cars.. the Garage is 24x26ft .
Although part of the garage will be used for storage.. I wanted to do at least 20ft of length x 2 cars.

The Garage will be used to store the 2 cars in Ottawa's deep winter freeze. Although I am putting foam insulation under the poured concrete, I also want to put some type of flooring to add even more protection.. worried that humidity can play a factor.

I once saw roll out flooring.. can not remember where !
Any recommendations ?

I did see the puzzle flooring.. not sure I want to venture with those.. expensive.. and I do not need a colour or checkered design.
thanks !
Old 01-02-2008, 10:28 AM
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cole328
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I just installed swisstrax www.swisstrax.com so easy and looks great if youw ant the roll-out stuff, I was in cotco this weekend and they had a large display of something that looked pretty good
Old 01-02-2008, 10:31 AM
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FotoVeloce
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Here is the site to get some really awesome info on garages.

http://www.garagejournal.com/forum/index.php

There is one dude that poasted a $250,000 garage build he did... including tunnel to house...

http://www.garagejournal.com/forum/s...ad.php?t=12234

I was going to floor my garage last year when I bought my place.. still have not decided (I have 3 gallons of floor epoxy paint still sitting on the shelf unused )
Old 01-02-2008, 11:15 AM
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Curt P
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I used the Costco flooring. It is the same as
Race Deck. I did a checker board pattern
and I find that the white tiles get dirty and can
not be cleaned easily.
Also if you live in a snowy area the water gets under
the tiles and it does not dry very well. In the
spring I removed the floor to clean underneath.
If I were to do it again I would probably use
an epoxy product but the pro installed kind are
much more expensive than the Costco flooring
Curt
Old 01-02-2008, 11:50 AM
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mzn50
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Thanks for the links and thanks for the tip on spring wetness Curt.. very good point..
I will look at epoxy as well..
Old 01-02-2008, 11:56 AM
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MrBonus
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I used Bigfoot tiles which are substantially cheaper than Racedeck. I've had them down for about a year and there is no real apparent wear to them.

http://www.gregsmithequipment.com/Ru...ile-p/htrt.htm
Old 01-02-2008, 02:22 PM
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blake
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+1 for Epoxy. I went with a black/brown/white speckled look, and it works great at is conceles dirt during the winter months. I really like how easy it is to clean. It can also handle lots of fluids - oil, coolant, brake - without staining.

Every garage that I own from this point forward will have epoxy flooring. It cost about $1K for a 1 car garage and took 2 days to "install" as several layers need to dry. It looks great finished.

Below is a picture from when it was first installed almost 3 years ago. Since then, the garage is now a room of the house.

-B
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Old 01-02-2008, 02:22 PM
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cvazquez
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I believe a good alternative solution is the industrial type vinyl tile 12X12's with an industrial strength protection sealer. It’s an alternative around $1-2.00 per tile. Again, the tile must be industrial approved for longevity. Alternative option during your flooring search...
Old 01-02-2008, 02:52 PM
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KeninBlaine
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I think it also depends on how good your concrete floor is. Mine was crappy cement that was cracked, with moisture and effluorescence coming through, causing some spalling of the surface. While I like the epoxy finishes, I knew that they would not stand up to the moisture problems I had. I went with the race deck, which cost about the same as professionally installed epoxy (about $1400 for my double garage). It looks great, and has the advantage of breathing so as not to trap moisture underneath. Plus, I can remove it if necessary to clean up any issues underneath.
Old 01-02-2008, 03:19 PM
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mzn50
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Originally Posted by keninirvine
I think it also depends on how good your concrete floor is. Mine was crappy cement that was cracked, with moisture and effluorescence coming through, causing some spalling of the surface. While I like the epoxy finishes, I knew that they would not stand up to the moisture problems I had. I went with the race deck, which cost about the same as professionally installed epoxy (about $1400 for my double garage). It looks great, and has the advantage of breathing so as not to trap moisture underneath. Plus, I can remove it if necessary to clean up any issues underneath.
Mine is not even poured yet !
Moving from this ...to this... 24 x 26 ... so lots of room to breath.. my thinking now after hearing from you folks and reading.. is perhaps letting the poured concrete breath and cure for a few months ?.. or better to put sealer asap ?

Last edited by mzn50; 02-07-2013 at 01:18 PM.
Old 01-02-2008, 03:25 PM
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KeninBlaine
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I'd give the concrete time to fully cure, as you suggested, especially if you plan to use a surface that is fixed to the concrete (such as epoxy or glued tiles). To avoid my problems, make sure you install a good vapor barrier under the slab (and under your insulation). Good luck with your project. Any plans for a hoist?
Old 01-02-2008, 04:25 PM
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cello
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If it is not poured you may want to consider having the floor machine finished. Generally the top is 'burned in' with a machine trowel (it looks like a fan on end with an engine on top) so that it becomes very smooth and almost glass like. The best part is there is no dust (like an epoxy). I clean mine by using a leave blower.

A friend of mine went with a professionally installed epoxy. Unfortnately it immediately lifted from the stuff they salt/sand the roads with here in NJ. I saw the floor before and after and that is what convinced me to stay simple. I did seal mine after curing.

Here's a pic of the flooring - the P car gets parked Tee-d off to the Audi (you can see the race track).

Others do swear by the epoxy (as there are many diiferent types and applications). Just research it throughly first.
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Old 01-02-2008, 06:19 PM
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968PORSCHE
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Ok, I thought from the pics that you had poured already. I did the machine finish, told him to make it as smooth as he could. The cement guy protested and said it would be too slipery, but did as I asked. It is really great as the guy above pointed out. Just make sure you cut a couple of grooves for expansion cracks to follow. I also put radiant heat tubes under it. Since you are in Canada, this should be a no brainer. It isn't really very expensive. Hot water heater, little pump and a thermostat to turn the pump on. At least put the tubing in before you pour. Check out U tube under radiant heat. Heck I even have a bunch of the tubing left over if you really get serious about it. I'll try to send you a picture of the pump, it's about the size of a 1/ gallon of milk at the most.
Old 01-02-2008, 07:54 PM
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cello
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Originally Posted by 968PORSCHE
Just make sure you cut a couple of grooves for expansion cracks to follow.
Use what is called a 'key' way for the expansion joint. You can see the (very) tiny crack in the pic which is the joint. Rad heat is the way to go.



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