redduck996

Has anyone done this? Would it be as simple as peeling off the tape or would I have to take it to a pro? I'm sure the residue or film under the brawl will need to be rubbed off right?

I'm not feeling the look, especially on the entire hood. I might leave the bumper alone since it appears to be beat up the most. Heck, I should remove that as well.. Gives me an excuse to get the gt3 bumper.


thanks

JohnnyBahamas

I've done it. It's as simple as peeling tape... actually easier. And, at least in my case, there was no residue at all. Surface was simply as clean as new.

SirPzalot

Same for me, peeled off clean. It does require high effort to pull i off ,but anyone can do it. Try it in the sun so everything is warm.

Popolou

Recommended method is to either leave the car in strong sunlight or take a hairdrier to the film and warm it up prior to peeling it back slowly. Have heard many stories on people pulling off the clear coat, especially off the front PU.

Regards

Popolou

redduck996

i think i'm gonna try it tomorrow and it it goes well i'll peel off the film on the bumper as well.

THe 3m is suppose to protect the paint from rock chips but not for fair size rocks right?

why did yopu guys decide to remove the 3m?

I also notice that with the plexus or gloss cleaner, the 3m collects alot more dust. Do you guys get that too or am I just using the wrong products?

Stephenkng

Plexus should be O.K.. However, waxing it will result in collecting a lot of dust.

Deanski

Film removal requires a heatgun to fully release the adhesive from the finish. Failure to do that will result in possible damage to the finish.

Heat a small area and keep the heat even as you peel it off. If you feel resistance, stop pulling until the heatgun has time to heat up the adhesive, then start pulling it off again.

Removal of adhesive is best done with 3M Prep-Sol paint finish cleaner, then when that is dry, use clay to remove any small leftover adhesive.

Follow right away with wax or sealant if you are not replacing the film with new film.

Regards,
Deanski

redduck996

do you guys know where I can get the 3m paint cleaner and plexus? I dont think advance auto parts has it. Perhaps target or walmart?

thanks

YA911Fan

Plexus is available at motorcycle shops. You might also try Honda Spray Cleaner and Polish which is also available at motorcycle shops.

Deanski

3M Prep-Sol is sold under consumer labels as well. Most sell a product called: 3M General Adhesive Cleaner number 08984 and is in a red labeled quart can.

For adhesive removal, use the 08984 first. You can find it in most auto supply shops. That also make the same product in aerosol number 08987.

3M Prep Sol or Prep Solvent 70 is a water based cleaner. Mostly used prior to painting a finish, it removes oils, wax, silicone.

I had to go to the shop and look at the cans again to give you the correct answer.

Regards,
Deanski

redduck996

I was not able to fine the 3m product, but home depot had an adhesive remover that is water base and is safe for paint. Its use to remove stickers, bugs, tar, etc..

I didnt use a heat gun but the car was sitting outside in the heat today and the hood was quit hot. I was able to peel away but it left alot of sticky residue.

I sprayed the car with the solution and started to wife away all the sticky stuff with a clothe. I then remembered someone saying something about using a clay bar. So I started using a claybar. I think I messed up the paint or clearcoat with the claybar. The top of the hood is ok because I didnt use the claybar. The bottom of the hood is really dull and hazy, I think its due to the claybar. I even tried waxing the hood but its still hazy and has a lot of swirls. Kinda wishing I left the 3m clear brawl on.

Any advise on what I should do?

DrPeter

Intuitively you will want to pull at a 180 degree angle, however, when removing, pull at a 30-45 degree angle up from the hood, It torques less on the paint.

redduck996

i think that is where i went wrong.. I was pulling at 90 - 140 degrees because it was so hard.. I got a little impatient bc the 3m was on the entire hood.

The 3m is off now but will i ever be able to get that nice silky gloss on the paint or did I strip away the clearcoat with the 3m and the claybar?

Can a claybar is used without water be harmful to the paint? I know when using a claybar i'm suppose to dip it in water or get the car wet.

Deanski

To use a clay bar, you need a lube with it. It can be a quick detailing spray, car wash in a more concentrated mix. You DO NOT use a clay bar dry, with water alone etc. Most sell the bar with a lube together. Mothers does as well as others. Meguiars sells their clay bar alone mostly. Just make sure it's not an aggressive clay bar! Those are only used for overspray.

Next, the finish has to be cool, use a fresh clean clay bar, cut it in thirds. Use latex gloves when working with it. If you drop the clay, throw it out. Lube a small area you need to work on your finish. Flatten the clay to a size of a half dollar or so and glide it over the finish. You should feel it grab any surface dirt, then it should glide freely after the area is clean. Use plenty of lube while claying a finish. After doing a small area, fold the clay you used to get a fresh face on the clay. As you fold it and it seems very dirty or if at any times it feels gritty, toss it and get a new piece. Read the following link to show what I mean.

http://autopia.org/forum/guide-detai...-cleaning.html

Once done claying the finish, wash the area down with car wash soap/detergent. Or, to strip wax and oils, a good alkaline dish detergent will do the job. Remember, it will remove any and all wax, so don't do the entire car unless you want to wax or use sealant after washing.

Dry the area. If it still look like a haze, it may still have a bit of adhesive on it or the product you used may have left a slight haze.

Next step, paintwork cleanser such as P21S, or other very mild paint cleaner, not a polish. Use a terrycloth applicator and apply until cleaner breaks down (powders). Do small areas at a time unless you have a "PC" or Porter Cable polisher and pads. It CAN be done by hand, just takes more time.

Check the area you just did. If it is looking better, continue the same area until it's clean and free from any haze. COntinue to the next. You can go right to wax or sealant at this point.

If it does not remove any haze, you need to bring the car to a good detailing shop so they can correct the finish for you.

As for removing paint film, it should have been done with a heat gun as the adhesive reacts to the heat and mostly does not leave any behind when don correctly.

In the future, you may want to research detailing tips, tricks, product reviews etc over at Autopia.org, detailersclub.com or detailcity.org. These websites can provide a wealth of info if you can read through some of the BS or shills. Another one is Griots. Most sites can direct you to obtain the tools (PC, pads, applicators, bottles mitts etc) if you choose to polish you car yourself. Once learned, it can be a rewarding effort and with a "PC" you cannot hurt the finish as you could with a rotary.

Regards,
Deanski

gota911

Put a few drops of Dawn in a spray bottle and then add water. Spray the section ant then use the clay bar. Like all good things, it needs some lubrication to work best!