DIY oil change/cabin filter change
#1
DIY oil change/cabin filter change
After reading several posts here on the DIY oil change, I decided to give it a shot. The members who said it was easy were wrong. It is extremely easy. You do not even have to jack the car up. Just let the rear end hang off the top of a steep driveway.(This also avoids the arguments I noticed on here about ramps plus jackstands plus etc etc etc.) Only a few special tools are needed(8mm hex, oil filter wrench and a torque wrench). You do not have to remove any tricky underside body panels etc.
Can someone direct me to a DIY link for replacing the cabin filter? I believe this is the only other thing that is actually done at the first service(besides lubing hinges and looking things over).
Everyone has to agree that it just feels good to do this stuff ourselves. My car ran smoother after I poured in the golden liquid(0W-40 Mobil 1). Ok Ok Ok, it just seemed like it ran smoother.
Can someone direct me to a DIY link for replacing the cabin filter? I believe this is the only other thing that is actually done at the first service(besides lubing hinges and looking things over).
Everyone has to agree that it just feels good to do this stuff ourselves. My car ran smoother after I poured in the golden liquid(0W-40 Mobil 1). Ok Ok Ok, it just seemed like it ran smoother.
#2
Mark-
Lift the front hood, remove the plastic top panels that are farthest back toward the windshield-twist the ***** half turn to unlock them-pull up plastic paneling on your left that goes down the side of the "trunk" area. This is attached by velcro. As you remove these panels, you'll see the filter there. And you'll also see how it is inserted and removed.
Sorry I don't have pictures or a link, but this too is very straight forward. I think that once you take a look, and pull off one panel, you'll see the others that have to be removed.
HTH
Lift the front hood, remove the plastic top panels that are farthest back toward the windshield-twist the ***** half turn to unlock them-pull up plastic paneling on your left that goes down the side of the "trunk" area. This is attached by velcro. As you remove these panels, you'll see the filter there. And you'll also see how it is inserted and removed.
Sorry I don't have pictures or a link, but this too is very straight forward. I think that once you take a look, and pull off one panel, you'll see the others that have to be removed.
HTH
#3
Burning Brakes
Join Date: Feb 2006
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Mark: my M30-engined BMW _always_ seems to run better after an oil change... no doubt that the 911 will feel "smoother" too...
Regardless of the fact that the drained oil was "in spec", it still has reduced lubricity due to its in-service time. I'm glad that Porsche has reduced oil drain intervals from 20k miles; regardless of the chemical stability of synthetics over time, I just believe that shorter replacement cycles are better for the car.
Please don't flame me re: this comment; this is not based on engineering fact, it's based on a combination of old-wives tales and personal agita regarding 9 liters of "dirty" Mobil 1 sloshing around in the engine of my $100,000 car... :-)
Regardless of the fact that the drained oil was "in spec", it still has reduced lubricity due to its in-service time. I'm glad that Porsche has reduced oil drain intervals from 20k miles; regardless of the chemical stability of synthetics over time, I just believe that shorter replacement cycles are better for the car.
Please don't flame me re: this comment; this is not based on engineering fact, it's based on a combination of old-wives tales and personal agita regarding 9 liters of "dirty" Mobil 1 sloshing around in the engine of my $100,000 car... :-)
#4
I agree.
I have replaced my oil twice in less than 12,000 miles. Regardless of what the experts say it always feels like it is running smoother.
Slapping the dirt out of the A/F makes a slight difference too.
I have replaced my oil twice in less than 12,000 miles. Regardless of what the experts say it always feels like it is running smoother.
Slapping the dirt out of the A/F makes a slight difference too.
#5
Pro
Join Date: Nov 2006
Location: SAN CARLOS, CALIFORNIA
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Hi,
Here is a write up on replacing the pollen filters
on a 996. The 997 is very close to the same procedure.
http://www.renntech.org/forums/index.php?showtopic=7058
Paul
Here is a write up on replacing the pollen filters
on a 996. The 997 is very close to the same procedure.
http://www.renntech.org/forums/index.php?showtopic=7058
Paul
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#8
Drifting
doesn't the Tip have a lifetime fill?
#9
Pro
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Hi,
Here are the instructions for the transmission fluid. I am
still looking for the right fluid.
http://www.renntech.org/forums/index.php?showtopic=6203
Paul
Here are the instructions for the transmission fluid. I am
still looking for the right fluid.
http://www.renntech.org/forums/index.php?showtopic=6203
Paul
#10
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Lifetime Member
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Originally Posted by dstrimbu
I'm glad that Porsche has reduced oil drain intervals from 20k miles; regardless of the chemical stability of synthetics over time, I just believe that shorter replacement cycles are better for the car.
#11
Obvious to most guys but: Just be sure to replace the crush washer with a new one. Though you can re-anneal copper washers (not sure about aluminum alloy) by heating them red hot and cooling slowly I'd still say never re-use an old washer. Plug can loosen because old washer isn't doing it's job with all that expansion and contraction and vibration.
#12
What synthetics offer is that they flow very well at low temperatures. All motor oils depend of dispersant/inhibitor additives ( DI package) to protect the engine from the oil (as it gets dirty and oxidized)... and to protect the oil from the engine ( combustion process, acids, water, elevated temperature ..these can degrade the oil). Whether the oil is sythetic or mineral based, these DI packages lose their effectiveness and the oil needs to be changed eventually. Bye the way, a good reason to top-off the crankcase when a bit of oil is cosumed is that you are also adding more D/I.
#13
Instructor
Just had oil change at dealer
Wow, not doing that again if I can avoid it. $235 for the oil change is a bit steep, even for this car.
I will be doing the change myself, as well as the brake flush in the future. However, I was prompted by the vehicle to have the service done. "Service Recommeded in 29 days". Do anyone know how to reset the service reminder after the DYI oil change?
BTW, ditto on the washer change. They are not re-usable.
I will be doing the change myself, as well as the brake flush in the future. However, I was prompted by the vehicle to have the service done. "Service Recommeded in 29 days". Do anyone know how to reset the service reminder after the DYI oil change?
BTW, ditto on the washer change. They are not re-usable.