Matrix Micro Coatings Review
03-19-2007 | 06:49 PM
#1
Thread Starter
Rennlist Member
Joined: Dec 2004
Posts: 1,282
Likes: 5
From: Athens, Greece
Matrix Micro Coatings Review
Applied the Matrix Micro Coating system to my car this weekend (www.matrixmicrocoatings.com), and I wanted to share some of the experience with you. As before buying the product I had searched many forums both for p-cars as well as detailing, and had not found anything, I think it may answer some questions.
Thanks a million to Dr. Shine Dino for all his help in my research, as well as his recommendations, and to Darague at smartcarcare.ie in Ireland, who was my source for not only some stuff (which I had to get through the EU for customs reasons) , but also with great insight and info about Matrix Micro , with whom he has worked extensively apparently. (I have no affiliation with him yada yada... just a good guy worth a plug for other European rennlisters).
As most of you know I purchased my car used, about 1 year old a few months ago. The color was in a bit of a bad shape, as the car had been washed carelessly, being a dealer car. So the finish had lots of micro scratches on it. The basic idea behind the nanotechnology of Matrix Micro is that its a sealant, which bonds over the paint and seals the pores. Obviously, as it coats, it coats the paint AS IS! And that isn't good, unless your car is brand new, and not dealer detailed! Matrix sends you a bucket with 2+2 bottles with decontaminating soaps (more follows), and 1+1 bottles of their two step product, HyperGloss and HyperSeal. Also, 1 wash mitt, 5 microfiber towels, 2 microfiber applicators, and 3 pairs of latex gloves so you feel like a doctor. Their site also has a video which shows the process step by step.
So the process began with taking out the micro scratches with a polish. Now, as the Matrix Micro process begins with two washes which decontaminate and strip the paint, it was essential that the polishing actually took out the scratches and not just fill them with was to hide them, as during the stripping, all defects would show again. So we wanted a polish that was silicone and wax free. Dino suggested Menzerma, I did some reading up on it and agreed. In discussions with Darague we said make it a two step polish, one was with Menzerma Intensive polish, and the other with Final Polish. Effectively the first one is a bit more abrasive, both are cutting pastes, the former is a medium shine, the latter a stronger shine.
So that took care of the small scratches. Took it to my detailer, as it was too risky to do on my own, have only used elbow grease to wax cars, never an orbital waxer. First shots here:
Next step was to prep the finish, by decontaminating (not that it had any contamination left on it) and wax stripping, anti oxidation and all that jazz. Bit like claying the car, only with a liquid. Although Menzerma has no wax and silicones, there is a bit of an oily residue, so don't think that polishing the car can save you those steps of the Matrix System. As Darague put it, 80% of the end result of the Matrix system is the prep work.
So, two washes done, one with each bottle. They resemble soap, and foam up just fine. Good rinses in between, remember these are strong products you don't want them under your seals. Final wash with regular soap to take all the chemicals off. Comment: Not massively happy with the mitt that comes with the Matrix Micro bucket, I have seen softer ones. In retrospect, for my just polished mirror like finish I would have used another, as I did see some tiny tiny scratches after the process was all complete, which I believe came from the washing. I have softer mitts at home, should have used one of those.
Then we move into the drying phase. Car needs to be 100% dry, as when applying HyperGloss and HyperSeal there should be absolutely no water involved. So here we are, out to dry, all doors open, spoilers, boots, everything that traps water which will come running down once you move the car again. And watch those mirrors, blow them out if you can, they tend to hold a lot.
Next step is taping. Paper tape EVERYTHING. Matrix says that the product is good to use on plastic lights and stuff, Perspex etc, but I didn't want to risk it in case they haze up. And it also discolors the seals I was told, so didn't want to risk that either. So I taped everything as you can see. That takes some time, so budget accordingly. I wanted to tape the clear plastic sticker on the rear quarter panel, you know the stone guards, but I forgot, so I made sure I didn't go over it with the product later. Taped the carrera 4S logo, tapped the rear brake light, the little black stripe around the sunroof (open, tape, close).
So now we are all set. Soak the round microfiber applicator well with HyperGloss, wearing the gloves (trust me you want to), and start on the car, in small circular motion, medium to light pressure, like u are applying wax. Cover the whole car. You are covering all the pores, you want that thing to soak in. Everywhere. However, the more you put the longer it will take to dry, so use enough but not too much. I think I may have used something like 15-20% of the bottle for the whole car. It was nice 20 degrees Celsius Saturday, but as I was working indoors at my detailers shop which was washing plenty of cars, it was a bit humid indoors, so drying time was significantly longer than the 15 mins they say. The product is supposed to haze, the video shows it on a black car, and it becomes white, but in my Cobalt color, it was never as obvious. It took I figure about 1 hour to dry. And it doesn't dry out completely, it was a bit oily to the touch, it just hazed up. Smells quite strong, so make sure you are not in small indoors space. I figure you dont want to be doing this outside for reasons of dust, but also not inside a closed garage. Make sure doors and windows are open, and you have adequate ventilation.
Here seen drying but not yet dried...
Then comes the next step. The square microfiner applicator comes out, so that signifies that your motion is not supposed to be round-circular like the previous step. New gloves on, a good soak with bottle number 4, HyperSeal and off we go. Motion this time follows the panel. Nice long strokes on the bonnet back to front, and the roof, and up and down on the doors. You want light pressure. One pass makes the haziness from HyperGloss disappear, and one more over it to leave a nice coat of the product. Now this is supposed to dry quicker, and it barely hazes, but it did a bit. Darague suggested I do a few panels at a time, as if it dries out too much, the haze is difficult to polish out. So, do a few panels wait 15-20 minutes and polish with the microfiber cloths provided. It takes minimal effort, no real buffing like you would after a wax job with carnauba based products. Make sure you go over all spots you have covered with HyperGloss, like around the fender lips, between the exhaust, under and inside the front bumper. As u cant really see it when it hazes make sure you don't forget spots.
I was removing the tape after the application of HyperSeal before buffing it out, as the tape was a pain to keep in place with the microfiber cloth. So once a panel had dried, I removed the tape first and then buffed it.
It is very important that water doesn't come in contact with the products when applying them. So make sure you have a towel for your face - you don't want to be sweating on the car!!! About an hour after application, car should be driveable without having to worry about hitting a puddle. Avoid rain on the first day of application, and if its sunny leave in the sun it helps the curing process. Avoid washing it for a week to give the products a good chance to cure.
Final result but sunlight not as strong
The process although lengthy is not really tiring. Yes I was only sore for 1 day (but then again I am not in top physical condition - far from it I would say hehehehe). I took 5 hours or so, including drying times between washes and stages, after the polish which I don't consider part of the same process.
The result is spectacular. Well actually, its only as spectacular as the car was after it had been polished. I mean the product doesn't enhance the shine I believe, it just coats it. So to properly evaluate the product, I want to see it in three months! Water is supposed to sheet on it, but I haven't washed it to report, and I want to see what kind of tolerance paint will have to micro scratches, although I certainly wont be taking it to a car wash to test that. Matrix Micro Coating is supposed to protect the paint form contaminants, bird droppings which mar the paint (but I don't expect to be testing that either :-) ). I wanted to protect the paint using a method that would need little attention afterwards, as I know myself and I wont be waxing it as often as I should. And the theory behind the Matrix product I like very much. Sounds like something that I believe Ben had wished for? A diamond hard coating to protect the paint? Read more here: http://www.matrixmicrocoatings.com/ Also, for questions, talk to John Suerth at Martix, he is really nice and helpful, and will guide you through the process I am sure. I just had to look for a contact in Europe, for reasons of time difference alone!
"Matrix Micro-CoatingsTM applied to the paint finish form a genuine film of nanometer dimensions with adhesion supported at the molecular level. Instead of resting on the pores of the surface, Matrix Micro-CoatingsTM form molecular attractions between atoms of the coating resins and those of the surface. Within minutes a chemical bond is formed with the surface that fills in the porous voids. An entirely new surface is formed, one that increases all of the physical and chemical properties of the paint finish, enhancing and protecting it for years.
The results are remarkable. Immediately upon application, Matrix Micro-Coatings™ begin to transform into very thin, crystal clear, ceramic-like films. Within minutes a chemically inert, diamond-hard, glossy membrane is formed along with an extremely low surface energy that allows for the easy release of all kinds of grime and contaminates, from insects to acid rain."
Lets see how it lasts given time. Overall the experience with the product was positive. Oh and use the gloves, I didn't when I was doing some touchups, and I cant tell you my skin liked it too much, dried up after a few hours. Nothing that some cream didn't fix, but at the beginning the gloves felt like overkill, they aren't.
Once again no affiliation yada yada, just trying to share some info. Oh and semi permanent tire dressing to be available soon, that sounds nice as well...
Thanks a million to Dr. Shine Dino for all his help in my research, as well as his recommendations, and to Darague at smartcarcare.ie in Ireland, who was my source for not only some stuff (which I had to get through the EU for customs reasons) , but also with great insight and info about Matrix Micro , with whom he has worked extensively apparently. (I have no affiliation with him yada yada... just a good guy worth a plug for other European rennlisters).
As most of you know I purchased my car used, about 1 year old a few months ago. The color was in a bit of a bad shape, as the car had been washed carelessly, being a dealer car. So the finish had lots of micro scratches on it. The basic idea behind the nanotechnology of Matrix Micro is that its a sealant, which bonds over the paint and seals the pores. Obviously, as it coats, it coats the paint AS IS! And that isn't good, unless your car is brand new, and not dealer detailed! Matrix sends you a bucket with 2+2 bottles with decontaminating soaps (more follows), and 1+1 bottles of their two step product, HyperGloss and HyperSeal. Also, 1 wash mitt, 5 microfiber towels, 2 microfiber applicators, and 3 pairs of latex gloves so you feel like a doctor. Their site also has a video which shows the process step by step.
So the process began with taking out the micro scratches with a polish. Now, as the Matrix Micro process begins with two washes which decontaminate and strip the paint, it was essential that the polishing actually took out the scratches and not just fill them with was to hide them, as during the stripping, all defects would show again. So we wanted a polish that was silicone and wax free. Dino suggested Menzerma, I did some reading up on it and agreed. In discussions with Darague we said make it a two step polish, one was with Menzerma Intensive polish, and the other with Final Polish. Effectively the first one is a bit more abrasive, both are cutting pastes, the former is a medium shine, the latter a stronger shine.
So that took care of the small scratches. Took it to my detailer, as it was too risky to do on my own, have only used elbow grease to wax cars, never an orbital waxer. First shots here:
Next step was to prep the finish, by decontaminating (not that it had any contamination left on it) and wax stripping, anti oxidation and all that jazz. Bit like claying the car, only with a liquid. Although Menzerma has no wax and silicones, there is a bit of an oily residue, so don't think that polishing the car can save you those steps of the Matrix System. As Darague put it, 80% of the end result of the Matrix system is the prep work.
So, two washes done, one with each bottle. They resemble soap, and foam up just fine. Good rinses in between, remember these are strong products you don't want them under your seals. Final wash with regular soap to take all the chemicals off. Comment: Not massively happy with the mitt that comes with the Matrix Micro bucket, I have seen softer ones. In retrospect, for my just polished mirror like finish I would have used another, as I did see some tiny tiny scratches after the process was all complete, which I believe came from the washing. I have softer mitts at home, should have used one of those.
Then we move into the drying phase. Car needs to be 100% dry, as when applying HyperGloss and HyperSeal there should be absolutely no water involved. So here we are, out to dry, all doors open, spoilers, boots, everything that traps water which will come running down once you move the car again. And watch those mirrors, blow them out if you can, they tend to hold a lot.
Next step is taping. Paper tape EVERYTHING. Matrix says that the product is good to use on plastic lights and stuff, Perspex etc, but I didn't want to risk it in case they haze up. And it also discolors the seals I was told, so didn't want to risk that either. So I taped everything as you can see. That takes some time, so budget accordingly. I wanted to tape the clear plastic sticker on the rear quarter panel, you know the stone guards, but I forgot, so I made sure I didn't go over it with the product later. Taped the carrera 4S logo, tapped the rear brake light, the little black stripe around the sunroof (open, tape, close).
So now we are all set. Soak the round microfiber applicator well with HyperGloss, wearing the gloves (trust me you want to), and start on the car, in small circular motion, medium to light pressure, like u are applying wax. Cover the whole car. You are covering all the pores, you want that thing to soak in. Everywhere. However, the more you put the longer it will take to dry, so use enough but not too much. I think I may have used something like 15-20% of the bottle for the whole car. It was nice 20 degrees Celsius Saturday, but as I was working indoors at my detailers shop which was washing plenty of cars, it was a bit humid indoors, so drying time was significantly longer than the 15 mins they say. The product is supposed to haze, the video shows it on a black car, and it becomes white, but in my Cobalt color, it was never as obvious. It took I figure about 1 hour to dry. And it doesn't dry out completely, it was a bit oily to the touch, it just hazed up. Smells quite strong, so make sure you are not in small indoors space. I figure you dont want to be doing this outside for reasons of dust, but also not inside a closed garage. Make sure doors and windows are open, and you have adequate ventilation.
Here seen drying but not yet dried...
Then comes the next step. The square microfiner applicator comes out, so that signifies that your motion is not supposed to be round-circular like the previous step. New gloves on, a good soak with bottle number 4, HyperSeal and off we go. Motion this time follows the panel. Nice long strokes on the bonnet back to front, and the roof, and up and down on the doors. You want light pressure. One pass makes the haziness from HyperGloss disappear, and one more over it to leave a nice coat of the product. Now this is supposed to dry quicker, and it barely hazes, but it did a bit. Darague suggested I do a few panels at a time, as if it dries out too much, the haze is difficult to polish out. So, do a few panels wait 15-20 minutes and polish with the microfiber cloths provided. It takes minimal effort, no real buffing like you would after a wax job with carnauba based products. Make sure you go over all spots you have covered with HyperGloss, like around the fender lips, between the exhaust, under and inside the front bumper. As u cant really see it when it hazes make sure you don't forget spots.
I was removing the tape after the application of HyperSeal before buffing it out, as the tape was a pain to keep in place with the microfiber cloth. So once a panel had dried, I removed the tape first and then buffed it.
It is very important that water doesn't come in contact with the products when applying them. So make sure you have a towel for your face - you don't want to be sweating on the car!!! About an hour after application, car should be driveable without having to worry about hitting a puddle. Avoid rain on the first day of application, and if its sunny leave in the sun it helps the curing process. Avoid washing it for a week to give the products a good chance to cure.
Final result but sunlight not as strong
The process although lengthy is not really tiring. Yes I was only sore for 1 day (but then again I am not in top physical condition - far from it I would say hehehehe). I took 5 hours or so, including drying times between washes and stages, after the polish which I don't consider part of the same process.
The result is spectacular. Well actually, its only as spectacular as the car was after it had been polished. I mean the product doesn't enhance the shine I believe, it just coats it. So to properly evaluate the product, I want to see it in three months! Water is supposed to sheet on it, but I haven't washed it to report, and I want to see what kind of tolerance paint will have to micro scratches, although I certainly wont be taking it to a car wash to test that. Matrix Micro Coating is supposed to protect the paint form contaminants, bird droppings which mar the paint (but I don't expect to be testing that either :-) ). I wanted to protect the paint using a method that would need little attention afterwards, as I know myself and I wont be waxing it as often as I should. And the theory behind the Matrix product I like very much. Sounds like something that I believe Ben had wished for? A diamond hard coating to protect the paint? Read more here: http://www.matrixmicrocoatings.com/ Also, for questions, talk to John Suerth at Martix, he is really nice and helpful, and will guide you through the process I am sure. I just had to look for a contact in Europe, for reasons of time difference alone!
"Matrix Micro-CoatingsTM applied to the paint finish form a genuine film of nanometer dimensions with adhesion supported at the molecular level. Instead of resting on the pores of the surface, Matrix Micro-CoatingsTM form molecular attractions between atoms of the coating resins and those of the surface. Within minutes a chemical bond is formed with the surface that fills in the porous voids. An entirely new surface is formed, one that increases all of the physical and chemical properties of the paint finish, enhancing and protecting it for years.
The results are remarkable. Immediately upon application, Matrix Micro-Coatings™ begin to transform into very thin, crystal clear, ceramic-like films. Within minutes a chemically inert, diamond-hard, glossy membrane is formed along with an extremely low surface energy that allows for the easy release of all kinds of grime and contaminates, from insects to acid rain."
Lets see how it lasts given time. Overall the experience with the product was positive. Oh and use the gloves, I didn't when I was doing some touchups, and I cant tell you my skin liked it too much, dried up after a few hours. Nothing that some cream didn't fix, but at the beginning the gloves felt like overkill, they aren't.
Once again no affiliation yada yada, just trying to share some info. Oh and semi permanent tire dressing to be available soon, that sounds nice as well...
06-05-2008 | 01:48 PM
#3
Rennlist Member
Joined: Jul 2007
Posts: 168
Likes: 6
From: Bellevue, WA
Dianic,
Could you give a long term report on the Matrix coating you applied? I'm thinking about trying it, myself. Was there any issue with the coating as a result of your minor rear end accident? Do you still wax occassionally to maitain a shine? Looking back, any lessons learned or advice on this product? Thanks, and by the way, your Cobalt is a great color for a 997.
Could you give a long term report on the Matrix coating you applied? I'm thinking about trying it, myself. Was there any issue with the coating as a result of your minor rear end accident? Do you still wax occassionally to maitain a shine? Looking back, any lessons learned or advice on this product? Thanks, and by the way, your Cobalt is a great color for a 997.
06-05-2008 | 11:06 PM
#4
Three Wheelin'
Joined: Dec 2005
Posts: 1,853
Likes: 0
From: Norwalk,CT
Glad I could help!
You hit the nail on the head... Polishing the finish is the MPOST importnat part of any detailing work. You could cover a finish with glaze and wax and it may look good now, but in a week or so, it starts to wear off and you'll see all those fine marring swirls etc. It's very important to fully polish a finish no matter what your LSP (Last Step Product) is.
Yes Menzerna polishes are the best out there and some leave a little oily residue which is used as a lube for the abrasive and to keep them in suspension. It's best to wash down the finish with Dawn or other wash to remove all oils prior to a sealant. Zaino Z7 wash works very well, but I save that for weekly washes.
I hope the coating system went well and it works as it claims it will. There are many commercial sealants out there and these are mostly used by dealers as pure profit. Most require a "maintenance" spray/application for a fee to keep the "warranty" active. Some of the coatings are snake oil.
Sure does look good, but only time will tell. Also, close-up under HID lamps will also tell as well as to the correction prior to coating. I'm sure the coating fills to a degree.
Post more pics whenever you get a chance!!!
Regards,
Deanski
You hit the nail on the head... Polishing the finish is the MPOST importnat part of any detailing work. You could cover a finish with glaze and wax and it may look good now, but in a week or so, it starts to wear off and you'll see all those fine marring swirls etc. It's very important to fully polish a finish no matter what your LSP (Last Step Product) is.
Yes Menzerna polishes are the best out there and some leave a little oily residue which is used as a lube for the abrasive and to keep them in suspension. It's best to wash down the finish with Dawn or other wash to remove all oils prior to a sealant. Zaino Z7 wash works very well, but I save that for weekly washes.
I hope the coating system went well and it works as it claims it will. There are many commercial sealants out there and these are mostly used by dealers as pure profit. Most require a "maintenance" spray/application for a fee to keep the "warranty" active. Some of the coatings are snake oil.
Sure does look good, but only time will tell. Also, close-up under HID lamps will also tell as well as to the correction prior to coating. I'm sure the coating fills to a degree.
Post more pics whenever you get a chance!!!
Regards,
Deanski
06-06-2008 | 06:41 AM
#5
Racer
Joined: Feb 2007
Posts: 257
Likes: 0
From: Ex SE London now SW France
How much was it?? I'm considering a similar product here (in France) called ProTech but thought it a bit pricey at 600 euros! (but that cost includes labour at a Protech centre - not a D I Y job).
06-07-2008 | 08:22 AM
#6
Thread Starter
Rennlist Member
Joined: Dec 2004
Posts: 1,282
Likes: 5
From: Athens, Greece
well I wrote it and then lost it... so here goes again.
Its been over a year since I applied MMC on the car, and this is long overdue, so thanks for reminding me. Porsche67T you must be thinking of someone else I havent had a rear end accident or any other in my car knock on wood. But more on the accident issue later...
As Dr Shine said, and I cant stress this enough, this is a sealant. Whatever the condition of the paint finish is, thats how it will remain, locked in forever. So MAKE SURE that your paint is perfect before applying this. Get rid of all the micro scratches and swirls. The Menzerna residue is not an issue because the process includes a couple of washes with products that strip all the residue, and take the paint contamination, something like a liquid clay bar idea.
One other important note is that my car is always garaged so I cant comment on how this would react on a car that is say parked in the elements year around.
So at this stage the product is as good as the first day it was applied. The water beads and sheets amazingly even today. I am extremely pleased with the outcome. The paint seems protected from acid rain or bird droppings but of course I havent tested that...
However there are a few issues to keep in mind.
a. Apply outdoor because this is such a strong product the smell is very very strong. eljeffo64 thats why they are asking for so much money I would think!!
b. This is such a strong coat that if God forbid you had to paint something, it is likely the panel should be wet sanded to get that thing off, or the paint wont blend and wont sit on the treated areas. Now all of us I am sure dont think that our cars will be getting scratched every so often, but er... there are more accident prone groups out there... So, in our new school bus, our 08 Cayenne S I am not going to be applying it, as I am sure that bumpers and mirrors will be getting repainted annually... Lets just say I know this for a fact.. it has to do with the aforementioned groups (I dont drive our family car, the missus does most of the time).
Note however that I did apply it on the wheels of the Cayenne which are the 21's with the many spokes, as they are tough to clean from that horrid brake dust, and so far it seems to be working well. A good hose down and most of the brake dust goes away.
c. This magic coat will NOT protect your finish from swirls and scratches. Now I am a bit **** when washing my car, have several mitts to do different areas, buckets with double bottom to avoid picking up dust with the mitts and use Zaino soap only. My finish remains 90% as the day I polished and applied MMC. However, at some stage I was using one of those autoglym squeegees to dry the car after a wash, until I read that if you drag a particle of dust across with it, you will get a long mark, and I saw a couple of them so I stopped. So I repeat this is not the magic coat product that makes your finish scratch proof. Treat your paint with care if you want it to look scar free.
Finally, I have been using quick detailing spray to keep the car clean between rides, and before covering it with my gorgeous yellow cover and it has been working great. I also zaino'd the car two weeks ago with z2 and then used z8. The result was spectacular, I was really impressed that z8 really gives the incredible shine it promises so I guess MMC can be "covered" with other prodcuts to maintain the shine (and not the product itself).
Overall I am very happy with the outcome and I would do it again for this particular car. eljeffo64 check out the site of the firm, they have prices on there its significantly less than what you reffer to. I am in Europe as well, I ordered from the States, and got it here. Of course my detailer hadnt seen it before and was as always a skeptic, so I applied it myself, which was a very tiring but quite enjoyable process.
And one more thing in closing, which I didnt catch, and it cost me another pass of MMC the next day (masking all over, and 2 coats). SHAKE WELL BEFORE USE it says.. I didnt, and thus the result was not optimal so I redid it again the next day... Remember to SHAKE WELL BEFORE USE!!
Good luck and anyone who tries it add to this thread with lots of pics. As always I have no affiliation with any of the products mentioned here, I am just sharing experience for the help of others who want to try. And if you end up screwing your car, its not my fault, but yours
Its been over a year since I applied MMC on the car, and this is long overdue, so thanks for reminding me. Porsche67T you must be thinking of someone else I havent had a rear end accident or any other in my car knock on wood. But more on the accident issue later...
As Dr Shine said, and I cant stress this enough, this is a sealant. Whatever the condition of the paint finish is, thats how it will remain, locked in forever. So MAKE SURE that your paint is perfect before applying this. Get rid of all the micro scratches and swirls. The Menzerna residue is not an issue because the process includes a couple of washes with products that strip all the residue, and take the paint contamination, something like a liquid clay bar idea.
One other important note is that my car is always garaged so I cant comment on how this would react on a car that is say parked in the elements year around.
So at this stage the product is as good as the first day it was applied. The water beads and sheets amazingly even today. I am extremely pleased with the outcome. The paint seems protected from acid rain or bird droppings but of course I havent tested that...
However there are a few issues to keep in mind.
a. Apply outdoor because this is such a strong product the smell is very very strong. eljeffo64 thats why they are asking for so much money I would think!!
b. This is such a strong coat that if God forbid you had to paint something, it is likely the panel should be wet sanded to get that thing off, or the paint wont blend and wont sit on the treated areas. Now all of us I am sure dont think that our cars will be getting scratched every so often, but er... there are more accident prone groups out there... So, in our new school bus, our 08 Cayenne S I am not going to be applying it, as I am sure that bumpers and mirrors will be getting repainted annually... Lets just say I know this for a fact.. it has to do with the aforementioned groups (I dont drive our family car, the missus does most of the time).
Note however that I did apply it on the wheels of the Cayenne which are the 21's with the many spokes, as they are tough to clean from that horrid brake dust, and so far it seems to be working well. A good hose down and most of the brake dust goes away.
c. This magic coat will NOT protect your finish from swirls and scratches. Now I am a bit **** when washing my car, have several mitts to do different areas, buckets with double bottom to avoid picking up dust with the mitts and use Zaino soap only. My finish remains 90% as the day I polished and applied MMC. However, at some stage I was using one of those autoglym squeegees to dry the car after a wash, until I read that if you drag a particle of dust across with it, you will get a long mark, and I saw a couple of them so I stopped. So I repeat this is not the magic coat product that makes your finish scratch proof. Treat your paint with care if you want it to look scar free.
Finally, I have been using quick detailing spray to keep the car clean between rides, and before covering it with my gorgeous yellow cover and it has been working great. I also zaino'd the car two weeks ago with z2 and then used z8. The result was spectacular, I was really impressed that z8 really gives the incredible shine it promises so I guess MMC can be "covered" with other prodcuts to maintain the shine (and not the product itself).
Overall I am very happy with the outcome and I would do it again for this particular car. eljeffo64 check out the site of the firm, they have prices on there its significantly less than what you reffer to. I am in Europe as well, I ordered from the States, and got it here. Of course my detailer hadnt seen it before and was as always a skeptic, so I applied it myself, which was a very tiring but quite enjoyable process.
And one more thing in closing, which I didnt catch, and it cost me another pass of MMC the next day (masking all over, and 2 coats). SHAKE WELL BEFORE USE it says.. I didnt, and thus the result was not optimal so I redid it again the next day... Remember to SHAKE WELL BEFORE USE!!
Good luck and anyone who tries it add to this thread with lots of pics. As always I have no affiliation with any of the products mentioned here, I am just sharing experience for the help of others who want to try. And if you end up screwing your car, its not my fault, but yours
06-07-2008 | 11:10 AM
#7
Three Wheelin'
Joined: Dec 2005
Posts: 1,853
Likes: 0
From: Norwalk,CT
Zaino Z8 does have spectacular results for such a simple QD spray when used with Zaino sealants.
I've always wondered why Porsche never offered a Ceramiclear on any finish? Just odd seeing the benifits from such a hardened clearcoat. Only drawback is if you DO have to correct some marring which is very difficult to do on Ceramiclear, but it does happen if the finish is abused in a way.
One thing I use to dry my car with is a HH leaf blower. As long as the area is clean and the ground wet from washing, these work very well in removing water quickly and getting water out of hard to reach areas. It's advisable not to use an air compressor and air-gun due to most do not have dryers and filters that capture oil, water condensation and dust particles and can add more of an oily film from compressor oil mixed in a vapor form when you pull the trigger of the air-gun. If you want to use compressed air, make sure you have dryers and filters that have the same or better capability for use in paint application.
Water blades are fine, but have to be wiped/inspected with each wipe, or you will run the risk of some small item being dragged over the finish.
Most of these coating require maintenance and need some form of spray or other solution to be applied yearly or in some cases, monthly so take that into consideration. And yes, most really do not protect from marring, just air pollution and bird bombs. The only way to really prevent marring on such a soft paint is to shoot the whole car with Ceramiclear or other similar hardened clearcoat.
As always, polish the finish as best as you can prior to any sealant to gain the best result. Z7 wash will remove most oils from polishes. And using specific mitts for areas of the finish along with the two bucket meathod is wise. One bucket for washing, the other to rinse the mitt.
Between Menzerna FPII or 3M Ultrafina and a finishing pad, will give you the best gloss possible. There is 1Z commercial polishes that also do well, but Menzerna has always been the best polishes around seeing they mill their own abrasives and have very strict controls. Most jewelers use Menzerna polishes as well as woodworkers (different polishes though), but you get the idea.
Seeing Porsche paint is so soft, even a wax applicator can leave marring if you use an old one that has residual wax. More so with those Terry Bonnets used on commercial orbital polishers, always use a freshly washed bonnet if you have to have someone polish a car, but you have better results with foam pads when it comes to polishing and even wax/sealant application.
If you dry your car with cotton towels, make sure they are 100% cotton, remove any trim and edges and wash a few times prior to remove any sizing used in mfg of the towel. Yes, you'll get loose threads once trimmed, but when folded, they can be managed by trimming them prior to use. Or dry with micro fiber WW towels. Remember, NEVER use a dryer sheet when drying cotton towels or MF towels!
Polishing towels, mostly MF type are good, but find the best quality as some are not mfg well enough for finish work and can leave marring. Wash any MF towels ALONE, no other fabric should be washed with it. During rinse, you can add white vinegar to help release any leftover washing detergents. One type of towels I like quite a bit are from DFTowels using Alpine Fiber3. http://www.dftowel.com/ordertowels.html
Just remember to coat wheels to prevent brake dust from attacking the wheel.
And.. Always budget enough time when undertaking this type of work. All too many people do not allow enough time and become rushed to finish resulting in a poor finish or protection.
Regards,
Deanski
I've always wondered why Porsche never offered a Ceramiclear on any finish? Just odd seeing the benifits from such a hardened clearcoat. Only drawback is if you DO have to correct some marring which is very difficult to do on Ceramiclear, but it does happen if the finish is abused in a way.
One thing I use to dry my car with is a HH leaf blower. As long as the area is clean and the ground wet from washing, these work very well in removing water quickly and getting water out of hard to reach areas. It's advisable not to use an air compressor and air-gun due to most do not have dryers and filters that capture oil, water condensation and dust particles and can add more of an oily film from compressor oil mixed in a vapor form when you pull the trigger of the air-gun. If you want to use compressed air, make sure you have dryers and filters that have the same or better capability for use in paint application.
Water blades are fine, but have to be wiped/inspected with each wipe, or you will run the risk of some small item being dragged over the finish.
Most of these coating require maintenance and need some form of spray or other solution to be applied yearly or in some cases, monthly so take that into consideration. And yes, most really do not protect from marring, just air pollution and bird bombs. The only way to really prevent marring on such a soft paint is to shoot the whole car with Ceramiclear or other similar hardened clearcoat.
As always, polish the finish as best as you can prior to any sealant to gain the best result. Z7 wash will remove most oils from polishes. And using specific mitts for areas of the finish along with the two bucket meathod is wise. One bucket for washing, the other to rinse the mitt.
Between Menzerna FPII or 3M Ultrafina and a finishing pad, will give you the best gloss possible. There is 1Z commercial polishes that also do well, but Menzerna has always been the best polishes around seeing they mill their own abrasives and have very strict controls. Most jewelers use Menzerna polishes as well as woodworkers (different polishes though), but you get the idea.
Seeing Porsche paint is so soft, even a wax applicator can leave marring if you use an old one that has residual wax. More so with those Terry Bonnets used on commercial orbital polishers, always use a freshly washed bonnet if you have to have someone polish a car, but you have better results with foam pads when it comes to polishing and even wax/sealant application.
If you dry your car with cotton towels, make sure they are 100% cotton, remove any trim and edges and wash a few times prior to remove any sizing used in mfg of the towel. Yes, you'll get loose threads once trimmed, but when folded, they can be managed by trimming them prior to use. Or dry with micro fiber WW towels. Remember, NEVER use a dryer sheet when drying cotton towels or MF towels!
Polishing towels, mostly MF type are good, but find the best quality as some are not mfg well enough for finish work and can leave marring. Wash any MF towels ALONE, no other fabric should be washed with it. During rinse, you can add white vinegar to help release any leftover washing detergents. One type of towels I like quite a bit are from DFTowels using Alpine Fiber3. http://www.dftowel.com/ordertowels.html
Just remember to coat wheels to prevent brake dust from attacking the wheel.
And.. Always budget enough time when undertaking this type of work. All too many people do not allow enough time and become rushed to finish resulting in a poor finish or protection.
Regards,
Deanski
