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Replacing Sidemarkers Without Busting Something?

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Old 02-23-2007, 06:01 PM
  #16  
OCBen
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Originally Posted by tkids
Listen to OCBEN, takes patience. One side took me 30 seconds of poking around and the otherside took 5 minutes. Look at your new side marker to get a hint of what you are aiming for in that little hole. I lightly applied outward pressure with my thumb so when it released I knew. Good luck.
Excellent!

Old 02-23-2007, 06:12 PM
  #17  
Coochas
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Originally Posted by DrDrilZ
i looked through these threads when installing mine as well. the best advice i got was "just yank the b*tch out". and it worked.
I hope you're not a dentist as your name might imply !!!!! Hey Doc, do you think I need a root canal? Naw, we'll just yank the bitch out !
Old 02-23-2007, 06:18 PM
  #18  
OCBen
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^^ Just make sure to open wide!!!
Old 02-23-2007, 07:06 PM
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D.D.
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Originally Posted by OCBen
^^ Just make sure to open wide!!!
Dentist???? I thought this was a Gynocologist!!!
Old 02-23-2007, 07:14 PM
  #20  
mglobe
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When I traded my 05 for the 06 (I'm not that rich, the 05 was in an accident), I told the salesman that I wanted to switch the side markers on the cars, as I had the clear ones on my 05. He said ok, and I said well let me go get my screwdriver. He said "oh, you don't need one", and just yanked them out before I could "no don't do that". He was right, there was no problem. I'm sure you run some risk of screwing them up, but it didn't happen to me, and others have found the same thing.
Old 02-23-2007, 07:18 PM
  #21  
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Originally Posted by D.D.
Dentist???? I thought this was a Gynocologist!!!
That would be:
"Here I am, at your cervix."
Old 02-23-2007, 11:07 PM
  #22  
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Originally Posted by D.D.
Dentist???? I thought this was a Gynocologist!!!
i do both. when a female patient tells me they'd rather have a baby than have dental work, i tell her to make up her mind so i can adjust the chair properly.
Old 02-24-2007, 08:12 AM
  #23  
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I replaced mine using by deftly using a periosteal elevator and cowhorns!
Old 02-24-2007, 12:05 PM
  #24  
OCBen
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Originally Posted by OCBen
Okay, take a close look at how the clip is shaped on the new ones. When you insert the screwdriver make sure the blade is horizontal (parallel to the ground, thus parallel to the plane of action of the spring clip). That way you increase the contact area of the blade to the clip and increase the likelihood that you are pushing the clip properly.

If the blade is "vertical" or perpendicular to the plane of action there is the possibility of making contact right below the curved part of the clip, which if that happens (as it sounds like in your case) you'll be pressing as far as you possibly can but the clip still won't disengage.

You need to be pressing against the outermost curved part of the clip, and the best way to ensure that is with the blade positioned as I described. Use the contour of the clip on the new ones as your guide.
Looks like SYMA has figured it out and is enjoying his new look, but for those who are looking at this thread for guidance in doing it yourself and for future reference, a few clarifications need to be made.

tkids did such an excellent job with his graphics work on the pic he posted that I didn't want to rain on his parade by making this clarification. I have taken his pic and drawn the white arrow to show what I was referring to in my post above when I said that you need to be pressing against the outermost part of the clip.

If you press down below where he has indicated, the screwdriver shank will be in the way of that "elbow" part of the clip when you try to swing it out. And I think that is what was happening to SYMA as he encountered resistance after depressing the spring clip with the screwdriver blade.

But if you make sure the blade is perpendicular to that bend line of the "elbow" (as I have crudely attemped to indicate in yellow outline) you'll be able to depress the clip fully without the screwdriver being in the way when you pull out the side marker. If the blade is parallel to that bend line you can see how it could easily slide off and down to where he has marked as the target and potentially get in the way when you try to pull it out.
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Old 02-24-2007, 12:10 PM
  #25  
MrBonus
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Why are you replacing them? They look better stock.




















Oh yes, I went there.
Old 02-24-2007, 12:21 PM
  #26  
jrgordonsenior
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Originally Posted by MrBonus
Why are you replacing them? They look better stock.

Oh yes, I went there.
The man has a set......
Old 02-24-2007, 01:32 PM
  #27  
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I actually like the orange markers.....



....what? Ohh shut up!! LOL
Old 04-11-2007, 01:50 AM
  #28  
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Originally Posted by SYMA
Hi Everyone,
This has been discussed in detail even with a few pictures. I have removed the tiny plug in the wheel well, I have a plethora of small screwdrivers but I am very unclear (no pun) on exactly what angle the screwdriver goes in and in what direction you pry to remove the amber markers. Mine are in tight as hell and I am pulling gently as I maneuver the screwdriver around.

This is similar to using a coat hanger and trying to find the part you need to grab to unlock a door...

Thanks
You don’t need a screw driver, you don’t need to turn your wheels and you don’t need to remove the plastic cap in the wheel well. All you need to do is apply rearward pressure to the lens to compress the flat spring enough to clear the tab on the front of the lens that slides into the fender. You can easily change out both lenses in less than a minute.
Old 04-11-2007, 02:44 AM
  #29  
Edgy01
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Concur. I did mine in the driveway at the dealer when they handed me two clear lenses. Took maybe a minute at best on each side...
Old 04-11-2007, 11:53 PM
  #30  
neil.schneider
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Originally Posted by Edgy01
I actually did this without any tools. Just with my hands.
Me too, I just pulled them out, no screw driver used.


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