PSE Plug/Switch Hack - Directions?
I finally pulled the orange plug in the engine compartment today (actually a brown plug on my 997S) activating my PSE fulltime.
Like everyone said, I now have PSE throughout the rpm range without the "touchy" throttle that comes with turning on PSE via the Sport Mode switch. And, PSE stays on all the time.
I've read about the switch-in-the-ashtray hack - but is there a more complete explanation of how to DIY? I have factory installed PSE with Sport Chrono so, I have the Sport Mode Switch.
My intention is to be able to turn the fulltime PSE on-and-off independent of the sport mode. Can anyone point me to the directions of how to wire up a switch to accomplish that? Thanks.
PSE sounds better with the orange plug pulled than it does switched on via sport mode.
(OC Ben, I searched and I searched, couldn't find the answer. Maybe I need the search hack, too?)
Like everyone said, I now have PSE throughout the rpm range without the "touchy" throttle that comes with turning on PSE via the Sport Mode switch. And, PSE stays on all the time.
I've read about the switch-in-the-ashtray hack - but is there a more complete explanation of how to DIY? I have factory installed PSE with Sport Chrono so, I have the Sport Mode Switch.
My intention is to be able to turn the fulltime PSE on-and-off independent of the sport mode. Can anyone point me to the directions of how to wire up a switch to accomplish that? Thanks.
PSE sounds better with the orange plug pulled than it does switched on via sport mode.
(OC Ben, I searched and I searched, couldn't find the answer. Maybe I need the search hack, too?)
Last edited by Leader; Feb 15, 2007 at 01:38 AM.
I think the biggest challenge is running the wire. I would like to do this sometime myself and here's how I intend to go about it.
(1) Put a multimeter on the electrical point (and to ground) in the engine where most people merely pull the plug. Find out what sort of signals are going on, at various speeds (vehicle velocity,--not RPMs). You'll have to rig up something, running the wire to the back directly for now into the engine area.
(2) As you drive the car record for yourself various test 'points, e.g., what the voltage or ohms are at the meter when SPORT is selected and when not selected, and at varying speeds (while underway).
(3) Ascertain the values the device expects to see in the engine area. Run the same multimeter test points with the SPORT switch not connected as well,--also, under speed.
How to proceed from here is based upon what the test values tell you.
Let's assume that the SPORT switch on the console affects the signal value at the solenoid switch on the engine.
Somewhere along the line between the console and that engine point you will need to intercept the wire and install that switch. The location of choice so far appears to be the ashtray area. (Personally, I'm thinking of buying the exhaust switch buttom that is found on PSE equiped cars that don't have the SPORT CHRONO option, and installing it in the console). Afterall, you will have to dig into the console anyway to find the correct wire that is doing all this,--or simply follow the wire from the engine forward and intercept it somewhere inbetween,--and then install a simple switch.
Here's the switch logic that I'm considering:
(1) PSE is on with the SPORT switch on. (normal factory setting)
(2) PSE is off with the SPORT switch on. (keeps the steeper acel. curve but with muted engine).
(3) PSE is off with SPORT switch off. (the other normal factory setting).
(4) PSE is on with the SPORT switch off. (The exhaust is loud with the regular acel. curve.)
You get 1 and 3 without doing a thing. You want to get 4 and perhaps 2. (I want 2 as I want to keep the aggressive throttle, but with a quieter engine many times).
If the solenoid in the back needs a certain value in order to keep the valve open then you may have to emulate that value in such a way that regardless of the SPORT siwtch position the engine gets that signal.
If you want to retain the SPORT throttle without the noise then you will have to ensure that proper value goes to the engine solenoid regardless of the SPORT switch position.
This is the way I see this rewire job.
(1) Put a multimeter on the electrical point (and to ground) in the engine where most people merely pull the plug. Find out what sort of signals are going on, at various speeds (vehicle velocity,--not RPMs). You'll have to rig up something, running the wire to the back directly for now into the engine area.
(2) As you drive the car record for yourself various test 'points, e.g., what the voltage or ohms are at the meter when SPORT is selected and when not selected, and at varying speeds (while underway).
(3) Ascertain the values the device expects to see in the engine area. Run the same multimeter test points with the SPORT switch not connected as well,--also, under speed.
How to proceed from here is based upon what the test values tell you.
Let's assume that the SPORT switch on the console affects the signal value at the solenoid switch on the engine.
Somewhere along the line between the console and that engine point you will need to intercept the wire and install that switch. The location of choice so far appears to be the ashtray area. (Personally, I'm thinking of buying the exhaust switch buttom that is found on PSE equiped cars that don't have the SPORT CHRONO option, and installing it in the console). Afterall, you will have to dig into the console anyway to find the correct wire that is doing all this,--or simply follow the wire from the engine forward and intercept it somewhere inbetween,--and then install a simple switch.
Here's the switch logic that I'm considering:
(1) PSE is on with the SPORT switch on. (normal factory setting)
(2) PSE is off with the SPORT switch on. (keeps the steeper acel. curve but with muted engine).
(3) PSE is off with SPORT switch off. (the other normal factory setting).
(4) PSE is on with the SPORT switch off. (The exhaust is loud with the regular acel. curve.)
You get 1 and 3 without doing a thing. You want to get 4 and perhaps 2. (I want 2 as I want to keep the aggressive throttle, but with a quieter engine many times).
If the solenoid in the back needs a certain value in order to keep the valve open then you may have to emulate that value in such a way that regardless of the SPORT siwtch position the engine gets that signal.
If you want to retain the SPORT throttle without the noise then you will have to ensure that proper value goes to the engine solenoid regardless of the SPORT switch position.
This is the way I see this rewire job.
Dan, you get #4 simply by disconneting the orange plug in the engine bay. I just want to "select" whether that plug is connected or not, but I want to do that from the driver's seat.
I think a simple ON/OFF switch in the hot wire to that plug will do the trick. I'd just like to tap into the wire from inside the car, not the engine compartment.
I want the mod to be invisible.
I think a simple ON/OFF switch in the hot wire to that plug will do the trick. I'd just like to tap into the wire from inside the car, not the engine compartment.
I want the mod to be invisible.
Here you go! I found it on Rennteam.
http://www.rennteam.com/showflat.php...&page=0#319320
A very good discussion of what is going on electrically.
D
http://www.rennteam.com/showflat.php...&page=0#319320
A very good discussion of what is going on electrically.
D
Thanks, Dan. That's enough info for me to have a go at it myself.
If I'm driving Pam's Boxster at the PCA March breakfast, you'll know I fried my 997's wiring harness. (I'm laughing, now.)
If I'm driving Pam's Boxster at the PCA March breakfast, you'll know I fried my 997's wiring harness. (I'm laughing, now.)





