I agree that it pays to be cautious about shorter springs, but, the success seems to vary a lot with different applications. I think there are a couple of problems: given a spring of generally equal rate, the damper is placed in an operating range that might be outside its design parameters. If the spring is substanially stiffer, then the damper might not operate much in that extreme compression range, since the spring is not allowing as much movement. But, in that scenario, the damper is likely not strong enough to control the spring, so it seems to me, long-term success with shorter springs is not going to be very good. I know that lots of folks are reporting success, and I believe them. But, a good high-performance shock or strut, even with casual track use, ought to last 30K miles, and I haven't read any such testimonials yet. I've pretty much decided, either leave it stock, or build a track car. I know there are good mods available that are effective, durable, and street-car compatible, but it can be a long, frustrating, and expensive road to find them.

 

I agree, I think the formula is how low can you really go (?), because lowering the P-car too much will cause issues (what is too much?)... A couple of years ago I lowered my mechanically perfect 993 to HR springs. I changed the springs and reused the OEM struts to get that low down perfect look. However, after three thousand miles with the lowered suspension it started to leak around the struts and steering assembly.

In order to make things better, I purchased (4) new struts (Bilst. adjustable) and further raised the P-car ½ inch from the lowest setting in order to prevent future strut damage and provide unrestrictive travel. After many miles with the new ride height no issues with the struts or steering assembly unit. The struts MUST travel within their designed limits.

What I learned:

1) I will never lower a car without knowing the facts/issues first (how low can I go without causing future damage to the struts).

2) If you need to lower the P-car, it should be minimal so that the struts can work within acceptable tolorance causing minimal stress to components.

3) I will never lower my 997 (period).

 

This is pretty much what my dealer has told me. He is very honest with me and of course I ask the correct questions. I would love to have my 2006 c2s Cab just a little lower but I do not want to have problems in the next 3 years either. The dealer said with the springs they use chances are I would not have shock damage but they will not garuntee it.

 

Hans is correct. Didn't mean to imply anything Hans. My point was that I should have known better than to put lower springs on without changing the shocks.

 

So my dealer is correct that you need to change shocks if you use aftermarket lower springs?

 

It ALL depends on how low you want to take her... lowering half inch from stock with the oem struts is probably okay. However, one inch IMO is asking for problems without replacing the struts.

 

There are a number of us who have had no problems with our lowered cars.

 

If you purchase the correct Springs you should have no Problems, we have done about 10 Cars with PSAM and had no Problems at all, Steve's Car is the only 997 we experienced Problems with, due to the fact he was sold incorrect Springs by another Company

 

I have PASM, I have the correct springs, and I have a major problem. I am well aware of problems that can occur to the shocks after lowering, I would expect that these problems would occur way down the line, 30000 miles, 40000 miles, but in this case the car was lowered and before any miles where put on it, the error code came up.

At this point my car is back to stock height, and the error is still present. I will be taking my car in next week to get the shocks replaced, and I am uncertain if I will attept to do it again. I really want the look of the lowered suspension, but I am not sure I want to deal with this BS again.

IMO I think the installer made a mistake and is not admitting to it. I am not an expert but if the error codes indicate no circuit (Codes are 000C front left shock absorber open circuit and 000D front right shock absorber open circuit) then I would say the electrical portion of the shock was fried. If the springs did it then why wouldn't it have done the same to the rear shocks, same load was added to them as the front ones.

BTW if anyone is curious the shocks are about $500 (cdn) or around $425 (us) plus labour per corner (front, I am not sure about the rear). My car has 6000 KM ((3750 miles) on it.

 

I'm sorry to hear about all of your issues. I hope you're able to resolve everything. Please keep us updated on what comes of everything.

 

+1. Almost 2k on my H&R PASM-compatible springs, 5 track days, no problems. It's a great solution for those who want their street car a little stiffer, a little more communicative at the track. That they make the car look better is a bonus (no pun intended).

 

what about lowering on a non s , non pasm car, does any body see an issue that i will have with the longitivity of the shocks and driveability. H&R springs drop it to 1.2 inches. any feed back??

 

You can have my Eibach for $200! Only installed once and never driven on.

 

MrBonus...do you have any more pics of your car....those LMs look outstanding with the lowered stance.

 

I do.

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