Waxing clear bra
Can you wax over the clear bras? I've heard conflicting reports as to weather to wax over the bra not. If you cannot, then how do you protect the paint from sun fading?
Originally Posted by D.D.
Can you wax over the clear bras? I've heard conflicting reports as to weather to wax over the bra not. If you cannot, then how do you protect the paint from sun fading? 

I was told by the Premier guys to wax it once a month. I use One Grand Blitz wax and it looks perfect, but I'm sure any high-quality wax will do. Plexus for scratches and blemishes, then wax. Just take care not to wax over the edge of the film, otherwise you'll end up seeing the seams. A real PITA to get the wax off the edges.
YES - that is if you have a high quality bra that has a clear coat on it such as a 3M product...
IN FACT - once you wax the whole car (to include the bra) it just disappears...
IN FACT - once you wax the whole car (to include the bra) it just disappears...
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My installer specifically said to keep the film waxed.
I'll second that comment about being careful about wax in the the edges - get some very thin masking tape and tape them off first.
I'll second that comment about being careful about wax in the the edges - get some very thin masking tape and tape them off first.
Although you can "wax" a clear paint film, it's better to use a sealant on it as most sealants are very clear, where wax has a haze to it. In time, it can start to give the film a bit of a yellow hue to it. When I removed several clear films prior to polishing the finish for another replacement, I show the customer what it looks like. Most have a yellow hue. Some faint, some very yellow.
Wax as good as it is, you have to remember, that you are adding carnuba and oils/silicones which if you put this on glass, you'll find how much of a film haze you have. This is how waxes deepens and makes the finish look wet.
Sealants, some do the opposite and make the finish look very reflective due to the clear nature of them. Sealants like Klasse, Blackfire, Werkstatt, Zaino, Optimum, Rejex etc all are good. Klasse AIO is not only a sealant, but a cleaner as well.
Better still, as others would tell you PLEXUS is the way to maintain it. It is designed for plastics. It's also wise to find out which film you have first. From there, always research with the Mfg besides the installer. Asking the Mfg will give you the best answer.
Remember to do whichever you choose to the film, that the film is cool. Films too warm will remove fibers from MF towels and leave them on the film. The film becomes soft and sticky when very warm.
As for wax/sealants between film and finish, use great care in removing it. Not only can you possibly damage the finish, but lift the film edge as well. If you did not tape or protect the edge, soak the edge qith a QD and use a brush with natural fibers that are firm, but not too stiff and lightly brush the edge while you wipe.
These films can be a big lifesaver of paint. I had a rubber flap bounce off the hood. Damage the film, but finish is perfect!!
Regards,
Deanski
Wax as good as it is, you have to remember, that you are adding carnuba and oils/silicones which if you put this on glass, you'll find how much of a film haze you have. This is how waxes deepens and makes the finish look wet.
Sealants, some do the opposite and make the finish look very reflective due to the clear nature of them. Sealants like Klasse, Blackfire, Werkstatt, Zaino, Optimum, Rejex etc all are good. Klasse AIO is not only a sealant, but a cleaner as well.
Better still, as others would tell you PLEXUS is the way to maintain it. It is designed for plastics. It's also wise to find out which film you have first. From there, always research with the Mfg besides the installer. Asking the Mfg will give you the best answer.
Remember to do whichever you choose to the film, that the film is cool. Films too warm will remove fibers from MF towels and leave them on the film. The film becomes soft and sticky when very warm.
As for wax/sealants between film and finish, use great care in removing it. Not only can you possibly damage the finish, but lift the film edge as well. If you did not tape or protect the edge, soak the edge qith a QD and use a brush with natural fibers that are firm, but not too stiff and lightly brush the edge while you wipe.
These films can be a big lifesaver of paint. I had a rubber flap bounce off the hood. Damage the film, but finish is perfect!!
Regards,
Deanski
Thanks Deanski for the write up! I appreciate your experience and will take all under advisement. I use PLEXUS on my boat and am familiar how it works in that environment. I guess my only real concern is keeping the edge free from wax. There have been suggestions to use painters tape on the edge first and then wax. I do use a quick spray wax after washing just to spruce up. I understand that I should not use wax on the film for fear of yellowing. My car is Midnight Blue.
Originally Posted by Deanski
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As for wax/sealants between film and finish, use great care in removing it. Not only can you possibly damage the finish, but lift the film edge as well. If you did not tape or protect the edge, soak the edge qith a QD and use a brush with natural fibers that are firm, but not too stiff and lightly brush the edge while you wipe.
Regards,
Deanski
As for wax/sealants between film and finish, use great care in removing it. Not only can you possibly damage the finish, but lift the film edge as well. If you did not tape or protect the edge, soak the edge qith a QD and use a brush with natural fibers that are firm, but not too stiff and lightly brush the edge while you wipe.
Regards,
Deanski
Not a commercial for Griot' s products, but I am sure glad it worked. They did sponsor the wash and prep station at the hotel, which was very much appreciated.




