Best V1direct install?
I would like to directly install my V1. The kit that comes with the V1 has a snap-on connection. Not having much luck with that. I'm afraid I will damage the wires, and don't know which wire to use. Been mucking around under the stearing wheel so far. Any way to hook it up to the fuse box, or nearby? Thanks, in advance.
Alvin!
Someone else asked this recently so I just went out to take a pic. The empty fuse slot is switched. The hardest part was finding a ground point. the hot lead was easy. Used a meter to find a ground that was good on an existing chassis bolt.
Someone else asked this recently so I just went out to take a pic. The empty fuse slot is switched. The hardest part was finding a ground point. the hot lead was easy. Used a meter to find a ground that was good on an existing chassis bolt.
Bob, It's all because of your great set-up that I'm in this mess. I liked your direct hook-up so much, I thought I'd give it a try. I'm leaving the main unit up by the rear-view mirror and running the wire down the left side. The remote unit will sit just to the left of the instrument cluster, on the dash. That way, I don't have to keep looking down near the stereo where it was before.
I see where the hot/red wire went in, but what's at the end of it. Any way you can take a pic. Where did you connect the ground? Pics would help. Don't mean to be a bother. I think I'll have to go to a chiropractor after spending an hour, all contorted, under the dash.
I see where the hot/red wire went in, but what's at the end of it. Any way you can take a pic. Where did you connect the ground? Pics would help. Don't mean to be a bother. I think I'll have to go to a chiropractor after spending an hour, all contorted, under the dash.
I'll take a pic of the end of the wire. if i recall, i used a spade lug that i filed down to fit the fuse holder.
the gound wire was actually attached to a bolt behind the console. i see what i did and take a pic of that.
the gound wire was actually attached to a bolt behind the console. i see what i did and take a pic of that.
Here is another method that was posted here. It took me about an hour to do the install. Very clean and the V1 is very visable yet tucked nicely.
Deacon
V1 hardwire/switched install
Deacon
V1 hardwire/switched install
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shlbrn-thanks for the link. I've seen that install and it's fantastic, but a little too much for me. Bob's method is the best for my set up, with the remote on the LHS.
Bob-thanks for the pics. I'm going to give it one final try this weekend; & if I fail I may have to take you up on your offer. I hear it's going to be a chilling 75 degrees!!
Bob-thanks for the pics. I'm going to give it one final try this weekend; & if I fail I may have to take you up on your offer. I hear it's going to be a chilling 75 degrees!!
Bob,
Got it done last Saturday. Took about 1/2 hour total-very easy. I unscrewed the plate over the fuse box and ran the live wire to the fuse-just like you sayed. Works like a charm. Thanks! Merry Christmas mate!
Got it done last Saturday. Took about 1/2 hour total-very easy. I unscrewed the plate over the fuse box and ran the live wire to the fuse-just like you sayed. Works like a charm. Thanks! Merry Christmas mate!
I went for a totally different installation approach and display method. Will posts pictures later. I started off by mounting the antenna (head unit) up in the position left of the rearview mirror, but have the remote display and power control mounted down in the cubbyhole forward of the stickshift. I also have an option to close it off with a piece of trim so that so parts of the system are not visible at all (while parked, etc.).
I sourced my ground from the area next to the fuse box, and also sourced my 12V dc from a switched lead above the fuse box. The two wires were then run from the fuse box area, beneath the carpet along the fire wall to the center console. From there they were rounted up into that cubbyhole box from the rear through one of two small holes in the back of the cubbyhole. Ditto for the RJ11 line from the head unit. I clipped off the RJ11 connector from the end of the wire from overhead, routed it in from the right side, and fished it into the cubbyhole, reinstalling an RJ11 termination on it. The power lines were all soldered to the Valentine-provided power plug, using heat-shrink tuping to cover up the patches. Two short RJ11 lines where made to route signals from the remote power on to the remote display and to run the power from the power plug to the remote control devise. All in all, a super clean installation. Tools needed include an RJ11 termination crimper, several RJ11 ends, soldering gun, flux, solder, and the other small tools associated with this sort of work.
I sourced my ground from the area next to the fuse box, and also sourced my 12V dc from a switched lead above the fuse box. The two wires were then run from the fuse box area, beneath the carpet along the fire wall to the center console. From there they were rounted up into that cubbyhole box from the rear through one of two small holes in the back of the cubbyhole. Ditto for the RJ11 line from the head unit. I clipped off the RJ11 connector from the end of the wire from overhead, routed it in from the right side, and fished it into the cubbyhole, reinstalling an RJ11 termination on it. The power lines were all soldered to the Valentine-provided power plug, using heat-shrink tuping to cover up the patches. Two short RJ11 lines where made to route signals from the remote power on to the remote display and to run the power from the power plug to the remote control devise. All in all, a super clean installation. Tools needed include an RJ11 termination crimper, several RJ11 ends, soldering gun, flux, solder, and the other small tools associated with this sort of work.
Originally Posted by Bob/Ft. Worth
glad it worked, Alvin!
Dan: I'd be very interested in some pics, please
Dan: I'd be very interested in some pics, please
Last edited by Edgy01; Dec 18, 2006 at 10:38 PM.





