MMD

Own a car long enough and get the exact same oil over and over again and eventually you'll be doing an oil change with quarts from different batches widely spaced in time of manufacture.

At that time you may notice that oil from different batches sometimes has noticeablely different darkness/lightness. I.e. color and tone of refined oil isn't something mfgrs care about. Same true with synthetics? Who knows?

snarf

In that fist picture is he looking for the drain plug up front? Just kidding.

OCBen

You are correct in suspecting that engine wear is mainly caused at engine startup, when the oil has drained and only a micro thin layer of oil is separating the components. What was that oil commercial on tv not long ago about starting your car is the worst thing you could do to your engine, or something like that? That's why you should always wait until oil pressure is built up before increasing revs and putting your car in gear.

A corollary of this fact is that a 1 yr old car that has twice the miles (say 30k) than a 5 yr old car with 15k miles on the clock, probably has less engine wear even though it has twice the mileage. Most of those miles were probably put on in long distance, cross country highway driving (a la MJones). The 5 yr old car would have more engine wear due to its many startups. Keep this in mind next time you're shopping for a used car. The newer one would be a better choice even though it has excessive mileage. And certainly those miles will take a depreciation hit that you can take advantage of.

So yes, theoretically, if you start an engine and run it continuosly (on a test stand) for 100k miles (or the equivalent hrs) you should experience zero wear once oil pressure is built up.

OCBen

You are misinformed.

It's when using a hydraulic jack to lift a car that you should use jackstands before crawling underneath. A hydraulic jack can potentially blow a seal under pressure, that's why you should always use jackstands - a solid structure - for supporting the weight of the car, and not relying on the hydraulic fluid.

Ramps are solid structures.

MMD

Yes, you are quite logical, but still unsafe.

How about a screw-type jack? Is that a "solid structure?"

And those plastic-not-steel ramps you paid us$25 for; rated to 8000 lbs..., is the QC in China up to mil specs?

Experienced intelligent mechanics will always use jackstands.

Kinda funny: Ever see those "exploding" plastic lawn/patio chairs people sometimes "detonate" just by sitting on them? THAT image represents a interesting physical property of Chinese-made plastic extrusions.

Dariof

Great write-up.

I have the cannister tool, the oil flters and oil, but where did you get the 8mm hex?
I want to get one that fits on my torque wrench.

BTW: I already PDF'd this thread for when the time comes...I'll have your instructions next to me. The name of the file: "Ben's Oil Change Instructions with Pics"

uzj100

Dariof-excuse the blurry photo, but this is what you need. Maybe you were thinking about an "L" shaped allen type wrench?

Rolf Stumberger

You can buy one at any Car parts store, or you can get a whole set at Walmart for around $ 10 ( for a 3/8 socket wrench )

You can also pick up the oil filter wrench ( 74mm dia.) for under $ 4 if you need it .

Btw: When ordering the oil filter , air filter etc. it's also a good idea to get a new oil drain plug. It's cheap and since it's aluminum , very easy to strip the socket opening (You need to torque it to 37 ft.lbs.)
Finally, don't forget to replace the aluminum gasket at the drain plug.

gravedgr

Contrary to popular belief, it is possible offer advice/differing opinions without being insulting.

CBejbl

I trust that you did chock the front wheels while the rears were on the ramp?

OCBen

Yes, you'll want to replace the aluminum gasket/washer for the drain plug, as well as the o-ring on the oil filter housing. My dealership usually includes them when I buy the filter cartridge, but make sure you get them.

No need to replace the drain plug. You won't strip the threads if you're using a torque wrench to make sure you don't over torque.

I didn't go into as much detail as the service manual such as making sure that you're careful when removing the old o-ring so you don't accidentally scratch the plastic oil filter housing with a small flat blade screwdriver, which will compromise the sealing if the o-ring seat is scratched (use a plastic flat blade if you have one). Also when you replace the o-ring, make sure you rub oil around it, just as you would on the seal on a typical oil filter.

Here are additional tips that the service manual doesn't mention. When putting on the new o-ring make sure you roll it down evenly like a .... ah, never mind. If you don't, the o-ring will end up having a residual twist, which is bad. When replacing the aluminum washer make sure the smooth side is toward the engine block and the sharp edged side toward the plug.

clif

ben, did you pre-fill the filter with oil? second, the oil did not look so bad. third the oil in the pan isn't much different than when you pour out fresh mobil 1. If that was the oil from around the filter i am not terribly surprised that there is metal there. the filter appears to be doing it's job. I think if you oiled the new filter it will darken up a little. all in all i appreciate your post as i changed mine at 3200 it did not look so bad. however most of my runs are highway at driving speed.

OCBen

Nope. Check the negative grade in the first pic to see which way the load vector of the car points.

Dariof

I think the suggestions for an jack stands is simply because of Murphy's Law. I would do the same.

It seems whenever the "stage is set" for something to go wrong, it does. Jack stands, or even a hydraulic jack raised to a point close to, but not pressing against anything would suffice to get the hell out of the way just in case. If using a hydraulic jack, and it actually has to do its job because of that tire ramp failure that can't happen, oh well. Better the car than your chest.

If something unforseeable does happen to one of the tire ramps, at least there is a secondary form of support to buy those extra seconds necessary to get out of there.

I think the others have given good advise, and when I use the tire ramps, I will have two jack stands or one hydraulic jack in position.

My neighbor, who is always under his C-6, uses tire ramps, and jack stands and a hydraulic jack and chaulks. To each his own.....

MMD

Yes, how right you are! I agree whole heartedly. Let me clarify:

"Experienced intelligent mechanics" are often found working on cars everyday for a living.

"Experienced it-will-do mechanics" also work on cars for a living but usually have a few fingers missing.

We here are amateurs.