DIY Oil Change in the 997
#16
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Originally Posted by kauai_diver
Thanks Ben,
I just passed 2000 miles and will probably do my own oil change soon.
One question I have though is do we need to torque the drain plug? I had to do this on my 3-series BMW (well didnt have to but it stated in the service manual)
Also what oil did you add? I plan on using Mobil 1 0-40w here in n. california.
Thanks again!
I just passed 2000 miles and will probably do my own oil change soon.
One question I have though is do we need to torque the drain plug? I had to do this on my 3-series BMW (well didnt have to but it stated in the service manual)
Also what oil did you add? I plan on using Mobil 1 0-40w here in n. california.
Thanks again!
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The tightening torque value for the drain plug is 37 ft-lbs.
Oh, I used the recommended Mobil1 0W40.
#17
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Originally Posted by nyca
what size socket does the Porsche removal tool take? I don't like the strap style wrench for a filter that points directly down, because the act of turning it to remove, puts a sideways component of force on the filter while its screwed to the engine (its hard to not "pull" the wrench as you turn it). this kind of removal tool, attached to a ratchet socket, places the turning force correctly.
Actually anytime you're using a cantilevered wrench you are placing a bending moment that is transmitted from the end of the wrench handle down to the axis of rotation of the part that is being turned, as well as a torque.
The only way to eliminate this bending moment is to use a double ended wrench handle with the socket in the center so that you are pushing with one end and pulling with the other, thereby applying a pure torque (a "couple" for those who speak the science of mechanics) with no bending moment.
The advantage of using the socket tool is in being able to use a torque wrench.
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Ben, many thanks for taking the time to document this - it's a real easy to follow guide. I've read a few comments about dealers overfilling by as much as 1.4 quarts (what's that in litres? no don't bother
) so your comments on volume are especially helpful.
Years ago I used to rebuild my own engines (Lotus twin cam), gearboxes, diffs etc. and I always made a point of changing the oil after each rebuild at 500 miles, then 1000 then every 3000. This was perhaps a little over-cautious, my wife said obsessive, but I think I'll be doing my first 911 oil change at around 1000 miles. Just 47 days to go before I take delivery, assuming all goes to plan that is.
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Years ago I used to rebuild my own engines (Lotus twin cam), gearboxes, diffs etc. and I always made a point of changing the oil after each rebuild at 500 miles, then 1000 then every 3000. This was perhaps a little over-cautious, my wife said obsessive, but I think I'll be doing my first 911 oil change at around 1000 miles. Just 47 days to go before I take delivery, assuming all goes to plan that is.
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Ben, a thought that might help ease your concerns over the colour of your oil. I've never owned a car with an aluminium engine block but I know that materials used to clean aluminium parts do become black very quickly, so is it possible that the oil in aluminium engine blocks will discolour more rapidly than that in steel engine blocks and that this may not necessarily indicate any lack of lubricating properties or damaging abrasive content? Sleep well
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#22
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do you take the engine out when you are detailing your car? I couldnt see a speck of dust.
it looks like you used the filter wrench that porsche sells, they are usually around $30 if I remember correctly. if you can find the "generic" equivalent you may get it for cheaper, it is the same size that some mercedes models use.
I used a filter wrench I bought from autozone it wasnt as high quality, made of some black anodized aluminum, it was around $5 and works perfectly can be used with a torque wrench.
it looks like you used the filter wrench that porsche sells, they are usually around $30 if I remember correctly. if you can find the "generic" equivalent you may get it for cheaper, it is the same size that some mercedes models use.
I used a filter wrench I bought from autozone it wasnt as high quality, made of some black anodized aluminum, it was around $5 and works perfectly can be used with a torque wrench.
#24
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I kinda did my own.
I bought some Mobil 1 and a filter . . . drove to my buddy's garage . . . chatted while he changed the oil on the lift . . .
Next time I'll do it as my company bought his lift when he needed to get a new one.
I bought some Mobil 1 and a filter . . . drove to my buddy's garage . . . chatted while he changed the oil on the lift . . .
Next time I'll do it as my company bought his lift when he needed to get a new one.
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Outstanding DIY write up Ben.
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Originally Posted by Crazy Canuck
I kinda did my own.
I bought some Mobil 1 and a filter . . . drove to my buddy's garage . . . chatted while he changed the oil on the lift . . .
Next time I'll do it as my company bought his lift when he needed to get a new one.
I bought some Mobil 1 and a filter . . . drove to my buddy's garage . . . chatted while he changed the oil on the lift . . .
Next time I'll do it as my company bought his lift when he needed to get a new one.
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Thanks for the very interesting and well-documented post. This is interesting and I am curious as to what the explanation could be:
Obviously, engines do wear over time, hence the need for reaming cylinder walls at overhaul time, right? So what accounts for this difference between theory and practice? Does the wear occur momentarily at start up, after oil has drained off the cylinder wall? Is it due to road vibration and vertical displacement of the engine on the mounts?
And since there should never be any engine wear (theoretically), could you run an engine continuously (theoretically), always maintaining sufficient oil pressure and cleanliness (theoretically), for 100K miles and experience no engine wear? This seems counter-intuitive, but we are talking theory here.
thanks
Originally Posted by OCBen
...
After the wear-in period, and all the rotating components have found their true centers, there should never, ever be any engine wear (theoretically), since these components will never, ever touch each other (theoretically) due to the protective film of oil separating them.
After the wear-in period, and all the rotating components have found their true centers, there should never, ever be any engine wear (theoretically), since these components will never, ever touch each other (theoretically) due to the protective film of oil separating them.
And since there should never be any engine wear (theoretically), could you run an engine continuously (theoretically), always maintaining sufficient oil pressure and cleanliness (theoretically), for 100K miles and experience no engine wear? This seems counter-intuitive, but we are talking theory here.
thanks
#29
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Originally Posted by snarf
Ben, a thought that might help ease your concerns over the colour of your oil. I've never owned a car with an aluminium engine block but I know that materials used to clean aluminium parts do become black very quickly, so is it possible that the oil in aluminium engine blocks will discolour more rapidly than that in steel engine blocks and that this may not necessarily indicate any lack of lubricating properties or damaging abrasive content? Sleep well ![Smilie](https://rennlist.com/forums/images/smilies/smile.gif)
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I do know that when I changed the oil (twice) in my Boxster S the oil was never this dark. Hmmm, I'll have to ask the service tech at the dealership on my way home tonight to see what he says.
Originally Posted by raffi
do you take the engine out when you are detailing your car? I couldnt see a speck of dust.
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