It's a good feeling I know. I respect that; I have some of the same personality traits.

I also have respect, in another sense, for car owners with such high standards since I bought a concours-level TR6 many years ago and just drove the thing and did a few wax jobs now and then. Great car and I basically bought it brand new! When I sold it, it wasn't concours anymore.

 

Nope, not good at all if it's "polishing". The last thing you need is to induce more marring or at the least, removing you sealant/wax etc. It's a gimmic cloth at best from whaaaay back. Most limo drivers used it until they discovered QD's.

Deanski

 

Oh really? The last polishing is done with careful control of polishing agents and trained techs, not by some odd "effects".

One day I should get the "test" panel (hood) that I use for testing products on and for training people how to use a rotary and hit it with a Kozak a few times and post some pics!

For those of you who feel a bit nervous using a "PC" polisher on your Porsche, go to a junk yard, find a hood that you can use. Best are dark or black hoods in somewhat good shape. Take it home, put it on some saw horses, clamp it down and go at it with your polisher and polishes/pads so you can see what each does and how much you correct. It's always better to spend a few $$ testing everything if you're not familure with polishing with a Porter-Cable. Later, you can try a rotary on the same hood. Rotary polishers works faster and better than any random orbital, but boy, you can burn paint in a heartbeat if you are not carefull!! More caution should be used around corners, bends etc(door jam area, hood openings, headlight surrounds) as they do not get as much paint coverage as say a flat panel or surface.

Have a nice day!

Regards,
Deanski

 

I just tried the Kozak and it seems to work quite well. Don't knock a product until you've tried it! I don't care who you are. Advertising is just that. I'm sure they are trying to sell their product any way they can. It doesn't cost too much...give it a try.

 

The best thing is obviously washing again. Barring that the dusters work. If you really want to brighten it up, duster, then use Meguiar's Quick Detailer with MF.(the QD acts as a lubricant to minimize scratching) Keep in mind that everything scratches to a degree. The blower idea will only get a %.(probably no differerent then just driving the car). Good luck with it.

 

Well, there are some things that can be easily dismissed as being efficacious on simple scientific grounds without having to try them yourself, such as mixing a little anti-freeze in your cool-aid to get rid of a bad cough.

The key pitch to any of these "miracle" products is the promise of eliminating work. How many of these do you suppose they'd sell if it actually took twice as long to use than to just wash the car? Even if it saved water or actually polished the paint in the process?

The truth is that dirt that collects on your car is random in size and texture, and thus random in abrasion. There is no way of knowing the nature of the contaminants and so there is no way of being able to put them to productive use. As I point out in my up-close look at dirt and the damage it can do to your paint in my first linked thread below, dirt is the enemy and you need to respect the amount of damage it can inflict on your p-car's soft paint finish.

Most of you know that I use magnification to examine my paint finish as I polish away the fine micro scratches that inevitably accumulate over time. (Lately it's due more to presbyopia than to my obsession with perfection. ) And you also probably know that I enjoy detailing more than driving. I'd rather spend 8 hrs detailing than 8 hrs driving -- there's no fun in driving if you can't go fast! . . . And as I've said before, the pleasure from driving on a track is over the minute the ride is. But the pleasure from detailing continues to last and last each time I glance at my beauty.

 

Here's a suggestion for you. It's what I do in-between washing/details. Only use this method when the car is dry, or the dust on the car is light (and not caked on). I use a swiffer hand mop. The small one with a small handle. You can also use the anti-static cloth that people use to clean polished wood surfaces (to remove light dust). They work very well, because they pick up the dirt and don't release it (because of the anti-static properties), unless you shake it very hard. And you don't end up pushing the dust from one side to another. Hope it helps. The cloth also works great for the interior, especially on small nooks/crannies, and gaps between the buttons.

 

I've used Kozak cloths to dust off Porsches over for 20 years with excellent eyeball results (don't know what shows under the microscope). Kozak is now sold as a Lexol product.

 

Ben you are trully sick There is no debating with you. I guess the OC is obsessive compulsive now that you're in NC huh?

Cheers.

 

Yep, it's a sickness I'm quite proud of too! The wife gets a bit annoyed by it, but she tolerates it, knowing that's who I am.

Yep, I bought my 911 mainly to indulge my love of detailing perfection. I have never regarded it as a means of transportation -- for getting from Point A to Point B. That's what my commuter car is for. Like I said before, my biggest fantasy dream is to come up with an invisible shield for the car that would keep out all dust and contaminants, so that the car can be driven and kept in a perpetual state of perfection -- now that's what I fantasize about! . . . Sick I know.

 

Ben, if your fantasy ever came true......

whatever would you do

My friend, you are one sick puppy!!!

 

Using de-ionized water will allow you to wash the car, removing the light dust/dirt and not have to dry the car at all (DI water will leave no water spots).

Upon coming home, you could simply lightly pressure wash the car with DI water and let it dry, no contact/scrubbing/scratches.

They advertise in Pano a 5% discount to PCA members.
www.crspotless.com

 

Wow. Good luck with that.

 

Good luck with what?

 

Simple solution - Drive it off?