edited for reason - repost

 

Thanks. This has been posted before during the numerous discussions around break-in.

 

If you have a motorcycle racing engine and expect to rebuilt it after every race this is the way to go. I am sure this results in a "loose" engine making hp. It is the equivalent of buying your Porsche with an engine that already has seen many miles of track use. To hasten the breakin process even further, mix a little fine rubbing compound in your oil and lap in those rings pronto.

 

This method IS the correct way to break in any piston engine and always has been wether the engine drives something on the road or propels it through the air. It's funny that so many, mostly those that know little about engines, follow the ridiculas suggestions of car manufacturers. But, I suspect that sales would dip if their engines lasted longer and didn't have problems like oil burning, leaks and total failure.

Most don't realize that the majority of car manufacturers make more money off servicing than they do vehicle sales. What a hit they woiuld take to the bottom line of their engines did NOT fail.

 

What was that thing I heard Porsche does to every engine before they install them in production cars? They redline the sh*t out of them and give them a good beating until their exhaust manifolds start to glow; is this correct?

If so, puts "break-in" recommendations in a different light.

 

That's exactly what I was thinking MMD. I thought PAG beat them in pretty good BEFORE they shipped stateside.

 

I wonder if anybody here wish they had "break-in" their P-car differently?

 

You've been reading your comic books again, I see.

 

It is a matter of belief and most of the time people would not want to take a chance.

I think if you follow up manufacturers suggested method you end up with a not so good performing engine (many may argue about that). Also if there is going to be a problem with the engine that will come out within time, I prefer that it comes out during the warranty.

I have my own break-in method and I know from my personal experience( I said personal experience) that my cars always made more power than a same model car.

I had a A4 1.8T which was modified to the extreme and at 55000 miles it was running flowless and very strong.

My 2003 M3 at 52000 miles was also very strong and went through an extensive test at regional BMW per request of the person who bought it. He added 10000 miles so far and still no problems at all.

Bare in mind that these cars were all driven like they were stolen when I was the owner. (no speed limits here)

I am planning to do the same with my C4S since only good things came out of it so far by my experience and by my elders experiences.

As I said it is very hard to change belief of someone about this subject. Everybody will come up with experiences and facts of their own and I think no explanation will be sufficient enough for the opposing side to change their way. It is sort of like trying to make someone with faith believe that there is no god or vice versa.

 

Others have posted, after a tour of the factory, that Porsche does indeed bench test every motor after manufacture. They have confirmed with the factory techs that they do in fact break them in on the stand. Don't remember the details of the process, but do a Search

 

No thanks for the sarcastic remark.

If you know something about the issue I raised then by all means feel free to inform us all.

 

Well said and I couldn’t agree more. I have always felt that the manufacturers are way too conservative in their break-in procedure. Whereas I don’t drive a new car (or new engine) like I stole it I do work up to full power and full rpm in a much shorter mileage schedule than the manufacturer recommends.

I think the key is to avoid extended periods of full throttle and high rpm but I have found relatively short bursts of full throttle and high rpm actually help facilitate break-in but I will add if you do not understand the dynamics of what is taking place during engine break-in you are likely better off following the manufacturers over simplified failsafe procedure.

When I was at PDE on March 14-15 the cars we were using all had starting mileages of under 700 miles (the 997 track cars get about 200 miles put on them in a two day program) and on the second day when we were allowed to downshift to third we were routinely shifting from 3rd to 4th at or very near red line and the Boxster and Boxster S used in the autocross were red lined at full throttle in first and then at or near full throttle and red line in 2nd gear a couple of times on each lap so it doesn’t appear Porsche is too concerned about full throttle and high rpm as they sell the cars to dealers who then retail them with the remainder of the 4 year/50,000 mile factory warranty. I will add that the PDE cars due to track constraints were never allowed to remain at full throttle and high rpm for any length of time before coming completely off throttle and going to (usually to full) brake.

 

Porsche no longer bench tests every engine - they are now randomly selected for bench testing. Received this info for an engineer who worked at the factory. Agree when they are bench tested it is red lined for a determined time.

 

More importantly, if you don't know what you're talking about (which is most of the time in your case), keep your trap shut and don't mislead with misinformation such as this tidbit:

Since you're such an avid reader, I'm surprised you've never read the saying that it is better to keep your mouth shut and be thought wise...than to open it and remove all doubt.

 

The part for driving like you stole it meant for the period under my ownership. I do not drive them like I stole when they are new. My method is very similar to what you have described. I feel like teaching her how to behave rather than to pity her