OCBen

Fellas, here's the secret to working with Klasse AIO, Klasse Sealant Glaze, & Pinnacle's Souveran Carnauba Wax, especially the Sealant Glaze which can be a royal PIA to wipe off: Use a barely damp microfiber towel to remove the product and a dry one to buff off the rest. If you're only using a dry microfiber towel it will probably streak the product. I like to apply each product and let it penetrate a good while even to the point of allowing it to dry. But you'll have a devil of a time trying to remove it with just a dry towel, let alone the streaking. That's where a damp microfiber towel comes in handy by softening up the product, making it a cinch to remove. The moisture in the towel will not remove nor harm the applied product. I actually think it enhances the application, kinda like a military "spit shine" on a pair of boots. This is something I happened upon just by experimenting and it works like a charm every time.

OCBen

Yep, I agree. Clay is especially needed on a just delivered car to remove all the impurities that accumulated during the long transit, especially rail dust. Then followed with a good quality paintwork cleanser, and a good fine polish (my personal favorite is 3M Imperial Hand Glaze, Show Car Finish). Then the Klasse All-In-One, the Sealant Glaze, and finally the "icing on the cake" Pinnacle's Souveran wax. It really is an all day project to do it right, so you better have a few cold ones in your cooler, your favorite tunes on, and your answering machine taking your calls. When I prep my car for concours shows it's usually a two week process detailing every aspect to the minutest detail (you don't even want to know) according to my laid out schedule and then on the day before the show I do aforementioned process, except the Souveran wax. I do that on the day of the show right before I leave.

tagheuer

I'm too lazy. I take it to the carwash. =)

JohnnyBahamas

Hey Ben, I've been a multi-step fanatic for years... wash, clay, cleaner (sometimes cleaner then swirl remover), polish, and wax. I'm already doing the work and the results are stellar, but I've been using Meguiar's professional products.

Are products like Klasse and Pinnacle REALLY better than Meguiars or would I be splitting hairs to switch?

WULF

This is a dangerous topic on which to express an opinion because there are so many fanatics with there own firmly held views (and rightly so). Having said that Klasse and Souveran will give you noticeably better results provided you prep properly. The result is a less "flashy" but a deeper shine and colour. A bit like the difference between estapol and shellac on furniture. It's expensive but worth it. Smells good too. Try it and you won't go back.

Gary R.

ZAINO!!!!!!!

Blue S2

Don't skip step one. The Cleaner is very important. If your paint is not as smooth as silk, you will be rubbing particles into your finish. Might as well not bother doing anything! (then again, i am a little obsessive when it comes to paint care...)
If you regularly use a cleaner, your paint should stay smooth to the touch.
What i do is when i wash, i will also cleaner/polish/wax a panel or two. The car always stays waxed, and it always looks good. And i don't have to break my back and arms doing the whole process in one day.

Personally, i wouldn't use the other 2 products associated with Deep Crystal Polish. I use the other Meguiars products. Meguiars Medallion(?) Paint Cleaner or whatever its called is what i use first. Deep Crystal Polish second,and then various waxes depending on what car im doing. The S2 gets the show products and the daily car gets Meguiars NXT wax. It lasts longer for a daily basis than any Carnauba, and it looks fine. For show, the Souveran, Gold Class, etc... are first choice.

OCBen

Hey Johnny, how's it going. You know, I used to swear by Meguiar's for years using it on my Nissan 300ZX with good results. I used the professional Mirror Glaze series, Nos. 9, 7, & 26 in that order. I don't know if they still make them in those designations.

Well, in the days when I used to be a waiter for my Boxster S four years ago I really learned a lot about the different products and on which type of paint finish each was better suited for. I don't know how valid this still is, but according to some experts Meguiar's and similar products that rely on chemical action work best on Japanese cars and American cars. But that on German cars (especially P-cars and Beemers) other products such as Klasse work better. (I don’t remember where I saw this but another good source for detailing tips & information, as well as great prices on products, is Larry Reynold’s www.carcareonline.com) So when my Boxster finally came in, it was Klasse that I went with (after the polishing step and before the Pinnacle Souveran) and I’ve had excellent results ever since.

I think no matter what you use, the real key is starting with a clean paint surface free of contaminants (claying step) and a good fine polish for removing swirl marks and fine scratches – my favorite as I’ve noted here is 3M’s Imperial Hand Glaze. (I like to work under fluorescent lighting to find and remove every minute fine scratch I can find. I sometimes have to control myself – painful as it is to do so – from crossing the line into Obsessive Compulsive Disorder territory.) After the fine scratches are removed, it’s just a matter of protecting the finish with your favorite sealer/wax. What I like about Klasse is that it lasts a really long time, providing good paint protection.

Atlas.

Hi Steve - I've got the same problem with the alarm and the headlight! My car has been back at the dealer twice for the alarm and as of yet, the have still not solved the problem. Initially, they said that it was related to the switch and changed it, but that did'nt fix it, so thay changed the siren itself and likewise - it still happens. Can you let me know if you continue to have a problem?

My left headlight by the way also has the small chips around the edge and it is not something that happened in the factory like your dealer has said. Someone else mentioned this I think. I haven't had them look at mine yet (I'm scared they'll make it worse or scratch the car like they did when they fixed a rattle). I guess I'll wait until it annoys me before I change it. As you can tell, I don't really have that much confidence in my dealer..

OCBen

It's kinda funny how this thread grew into two intertwined threads of entirely different topics of conversation.

steve775

The dealer told me that when they install the headlight covers in Germany, the process they use can sometimes cause that defect. I can't imagine you or anyone else here in the US either during delivery or you the owner somehow chipping at the edge of the headlights, right next to the edge of the metal around the headlights, and creating the minute cracks.

If you hit something you'd probably mess up the paint and steel too to get to the headlights.

I think your dealer is trying to weasel out of this situation - push it, explain how hard it would be for you to cause those tiny cracks. Rip 'em up.

The rest of you should look very closely to the extreme outer edge of your headlights.

rss997

just ordered from autopia...full kit and topcoat.....any advice for my first clay and cleaning would be appreciated. black 997........

OCBen

Way to go Robert. Yeah, just basically follow the online detailed instructions there at www.Autopia-CarCare.com on how to use the products, especially the clay which will take some getting used to.

I like to use really soapy water for lubrication when using a clay bar - a good grease-cutting soap like Dawn that will help remove any residue wax. Cup some of the soapy water with one hand and smear it over the area you'll be working on and with your other hand slide the clay bar back and forth to remove surface contaminants. Examine the bar every now and then, and when it starts to get a dirty discoloration just knead the clay to work up a fresh clean surface. Just make sure you always have lubrication between the paint finish and the clay bar, otherwise the clay will stick and leave a smudge mark. But if it does don't panic. Just wipe it off with a clean towel and away you go. You don't need to apply any pressure on the bar as you work it back and forth. The weight of the bar alone should provide sufficient pressure. The only pressure you should be applying is that amount sufficient to hold the clay bar firmly in your hand so that it doesn't slip off and hit the ground. If it does, just tear off that piece that got dirty or throw the whole bar away to be on the safe side.

If you park your car outside often without a car cover your car's paint finish will have undoubtedly picked up contaminants. Before you clay it, run your fingers over the surface to see if you can feel any slight specks of roughness. If it feels smooth to you then, wait until you try this after you've clayed that section. It will feel so unbelievably smooth your girlfriend (or wife, or both) will get jealous at the pleasure you get just feeling up your car.

rss997

Ben,

Thanks, What about the windshield? It says you can clay it too. Mine has some speckled crap on it that wont come off...Autopia says you can clay the glass.........

I cant wait to do it because my black car sits out 4 days a week at my office and gets bee crap on it and a ton of dust from the wind....

Robert

texas911

I clay all my cars, and you can't believe how smooth the paint gets after claying, it make it feel thicker, at least to me.