Proper Breakin Procedure
#31
Originally Posted by 1999Porsche911
My opinion, based on education and experience, is that driving a car or any other combustion engine at low to mediem revs only, is the IMROPER procedure for breakin AND it WILL do irriversable damage to the engine in many cases. There is only one component of a piston engine that needs to be properly broken in, and that is the pistons, rings and cylinders. The rings need to rub hard and evenly through all heat ranges early on in the process in order to evenly smooth out the cylinders. This can only be accomplished with high compression in the cylinders. If this is NOT done, there is a chance that the cylnder(s) will wear in an oval shape and that cylinder(s) will begin blowing oil.
Proper breakin must be done in the first 100 -200 miles and below is the proper procedure:
1. Always bring engine to FULL operating temperature before high revs.
2. Dive trhe car easy for the first 10 miles or so, varying the rpm's from 2,000 - 5,000.
3. Then, start bringing the engine up to maximum rpm's and letting the the engine bring the revs back down by coating in gear.
4. Repeat several times, in order to create maximum heat in the cylinders.
5. Drive around at lower RMP's for seveal more miles, remembering to vary the speed of the engine every couple of miles.
6. Repeat number 3, 4 and 5.
7. Park car and let the engine cool down overnight.
8. Repeat all the above 2 more times.
You engine is now fully broken in correctly and should be driven hard from here on.
Proper breakin must be done in the first 100 -200 miles and below is the proper procedure:
1. Always bring engine to FULL operating temperature before high revs.
2. Dive trhe car easy for the first 10 miles or so, varying the rpm's from 2,000 - 5,000.
3. Then, start bringing the engine up to maximum rpm's and letting the the engine bring the revs back down by coating in gear.
4. Repeat several times, in order to create maximum heat in the cylinders.
5. Drive around at lower RMP's for seveal more miles, remembering to vary the speed of the engine every couple of miles.
6. Repeat number 3, 4 and 5.
7. Park car and let the engine cool down overnight.
8. Repeat all the above 2 more times.
You engine is now fully broken in correctly and should be driven hard from here on.
#32
Originally Posted by Moogle
however, there is clearly a part in the manual that dictates how PORSCHE recommends the engine be broken in.
yet so many so many people ask about this that is is clear that some think the manual isnt correct or good enough.
yet so many so many people ask about this that is is clear that some think the manual isnt correct or good enough.
#33
Originally Posted by avelino
In case you haven't seen it before, here is a great link on the break-in issue: http://www.mototuneusa.com/break_in_secrets.htm
PS. I believe Porsche runs the engines at redline for a few seconds or something at the factory, and also above 4200 RPM to test to make sure the engine makes the required power.
there is nothing you can do about this. However, the manual still tells you what to do AFTER YOU get the car.
#34
Originally Posted by jcf7
what about oil changes? My dealer told me, and I think the manuel states, that the very first service is at 20K, yet others have told me that they change the oil after the first 2K, and others recommend after 10K. My car is a 3 year lease and all I want is 3 years without hassles, after that I get something else or another Porsche. Any thoughts on oil? thanks.
SAAB in Sweden just went through a lot of wrecked engines due to their long intervals...after about 12K quite a lot of the engines in question started smoking,if you kept on driving,by 16 - 18K they had major engine damage. Running low viscosity "wide-band" oil like 0W-50 or 5W-50 contributes to the wear,when the VI-improver in these oils wear out,it becomes even thinner,and less load-carrying. Most engines today are made as "low-friction" ones,they have very small bearings compared to the loads they have,making oil viscosity critical,and very thin piston rings,that (especially if not broken in properly) causes blow-by,which contaminates the oil,making the oil "worn out" even more prematurely... Very long intervals+minimalized engine components+very thin oil = trouble.
#35
Originally Posted by Moogle
Still, I would follow Porsche's OEM Manual "Hints" over the webpage of some child molestor looking fellow.
PS. I believe Porsche runs the engines at redline for a few seconds or something at the factory,
#36
Originally Posted by Robert Santangelo
Beware of saying anything here that Porsche could use against you if you have engine trouble while under warranty...
I sat in an arbitration today with Porsche NA and a friend....They produced all evidence and PCA club records to say that he abuses his car at autocross events.......
Better follow 2 k mile break in....
I sat in an arbitration today with Porsche NA and a friend....They produced all evidence and PCA club records to say that he abuses his car at autocross events.......
Better follow 2 k mile break in....
#37
Originally Posted by Moogle
Still, I would follow Porsche's OEM Manual "Hints" over the webpage of some child molestor looking fellow.
#39
Picked up the 997 6 days ago today and just turned 1,000 miles. I'll need to read the manuel this morning and learn how to check the oil. That said, it's a beautiful (cold) Sunday morning in Connecticut and I am going to do my best to add a few more miles today.
After reading these posts it seems that Porsche ownership may be a bit more complicated than I expected.....but, who cares....I love this car. Previously owned an 840 bmw and an '02 xkr.
After reading these posts it seems that Porsche ownership may be a bit more complicated than I expected.....but, who cares....I love this car. Previously owned an 840 bmw and an '02 xkr.
#42
My thoughts exactly re warranty and Porsche recommendations. That said, the dealer told me to come in for the first service and oil change at 20k. After 1,054 miles my oil meter, cold and hot, shows 1 bar down. Then you read so the posts here and you have to ask yourself if the dealer is right. In any case, I plan to call the dealer and its service manager tomorrow and ask.
#43
My car will not be here until May or June so I do not have the opportunity to experience any oil or break in issues. But there has to be someone out there knowledgeabe enough to know the proper way to break in a sports car to properly seal the rings to avoid oil problems. It seems almost universal that all people on this site have to add some oil within the first 2000 miles. We need to ask a sales rep or mechanic is it normal to burn oil with the initial break in. And second is there a tie between how you break the car in and avoiding RMS issues. There seems to be a correlation. I hope to have a definitive answer soon.
Jay
April build
997 S Cab
Atlas Grey Metallic
Full Leather, black
Sports Chrono
Jay
April build
997 S Cab
Atlas Grey Metallic
Full Leather, black
Sports Chrono
#44
Man, you guys take yourselves too seriously...
everything I said was in good humour.
im finished with this pointless argument.
if the manual isnt good enough for you, do your own thing, just know, its not the 'right way'.
i'll be waiting here when you come back crying when your engine explodes, or you get RMS, and you complain about Porsche making a bad product or not saying the 'break in' procedure was not open to interpretation.
I'm outta here.
everything I said was in good humour.
im finished with this pointless argument.
if the manual isnt good enough for you, do your own thing, just know, its not the 'right way'.
i'll be waiting here when you come back crying when your engine explodes, or you get RMS, and you complain about Porsche making a bad product or not saying the 'break in' procedure was not open to interpretation.
I'm outta here.
#45
.....after checking the oil cold and hot it shows 1 bar empty (1054 miles)...I park it in the garage and 30 minutes later, just before I go out again, I check it and it shows all bars full.
I think I'll just drive the car and not get to hung-up on "potential" problems.
I think I'll just drive the car and not get to hung-up on "potential" problems.