If you get the nutcracker the wheel will rotate to the brake caliper and jam. No need to worry about engaging the brakes.

Look up videos regarding using the tool.

 

I bought a Neiko brand torque multiplier from Amazon. I got the recommendation from somewhere on Rennlist.

To hold the front brakes I do a variation of what JayZbird does in the thread he linked with the exact same Irwin tools. If the brake booster is "fully charged" you can depress the brake pedal all the way and apply full braking force using that method.

The only problem's I have had with the fronts (other than them being much more difficult to get off than the rears for some reason) Is the rocking mechanism with the Quickjacks. I have never tried with low jackstands, so perhaps there is less risk or minimal rocking. I always use the Quickjack in the locked positions, even on the lowest locked position I could get what I would consider concerning amount of front/back rocking of the car. I'm sure it was still stable enough to proceed but I wasnt comfortable doing it.

 

A friend acquired one of these with his TTS. I love working on his wheels with this tool ...

Precision Torque Tool for Porsche Center Lock Wheels - HYTORC Torque Gun - Obsessed Garage https://share.google/W7NtLG3kfV1WVkWz9

 

Anyone know the reason why Porsche says not to break them free on the ground? I had no idea and that’s how I did the rears. No apparent problem doing so.

 

The centerlock nut tightens onto a taper (inverted cone) on the wheel. If the wheel has a load pushing it up (as would happen if the car was on the ground) then that taper (or the nut cone) could get scored or damaged due to asymmetric compression. Picture the wheel being forced down along that bearing surface as the nut tightens. Yes, you still have the weight of the wheel pushing it down (rather than the weight of the car pushing the wheel up) if the car is in the air. But it's a lot less. That's the reason you tighten to spec, then back off 60 degrees, and then tighten to spec again. This allows the bearing surfaces to properly mesh, insuring the wheel is centered.

 

PCA had a good tech talk recently on centerlocks by a Porsche engineer. Worth the watch.
https://www.pca.org/news/porsche-cen...t-tech-tactics

 

Interesting ! The same physics would apply to wheel/lug nuts/bolts (but the smaller surface area and the fact there are more than one would matter, and centring would be more gentle/even as you tighten the lugs, so less critical). But- I'm thinking this is also why you see evidence of wear/scoring on the holes' surface as the wheel moves (perhaps only slightly) laterally as the lug is tightened , especially on alloy wheels I guess !

 

If I were to service center lock cars daily, I would spring for the $5,000 tool. As an owner of high performance cars for the street who rarely takes my cars to the track, I see this feature as bling more than performance. Even if I did take my cars to the track, I don't need the center lock to slow me down on servicing the wheels. Ignore the comments if you are Louis Hamilton driving F1 race cars and you need your pit crew to do their job in 2 seconds. You need center locks. Everybody else does not.

 

I bribe my daughter with DQ for mechanical assistance lol

 

I believe you're correct, which is why you tighten each lug a bit while skipping every other one (in the case of five lug wheels) as you go, eventually reaching full torque for all lugs.

 

Is it fine on five nut wheels?

 

I have seen this video. It is very useful.

 

In case you guys haven't seen this, for the holding the brakes you can try Nutcracker's TOG.

https://nut-cracker.com/products/the-other-guy-tog

Hope this helps.