useridchallenged

No surprise that it's time to replace the original strut assemblies after 20 years.

At this mileage, which suspension components/bushings most likely need to be replaced (or upgraded)?

Any and all opinions appreciated, including specific brands and parts.

Current Plan (in order)

• Goal - more autox
• Goal - an affordable and streetable GT-ish DD in terms of suspension that doesn't attract attention (sleeper)
• New struts/dampers (OEM? Bilstein B6? B12? B16?) - I've decided I want to retain an active suspension
• Stiffer sways (OEM? GT? others?) - surprisingly PASM helps flatten out the turns, but I'm hoping adjustable sways will help fine-tune over- and under-steer
• DCS (seems to be a near universal recommendation on Rennlist)
• Get another 175k miles of joy out of this chassis (another 20 years!)

Vehicle

• 2005 997.1 C2 with PASM (basically a C2 with a C2S suspension) and 175k miles.
• At 162k miles - new steering rack, new tie rods ends (front/rear), new sway bar links (front/rear)

Non-essential Details - feel free to skip

• I've owned the car for 19 out of 20 years, it's occasionally auto-crossed, and is obviously a DD.
• I drive with PASM enabled - no exception when its just me, and also with most passengers
• No DCS - completely stock and OEM parts.
• Northern California Bay Area roads (potholes and roadwork) and Sierra snow-damaged roads (exceptional potholes)
• Garaged (some UV and heat/cold protection)
• Driven in all weather except snow
• Not suspension related - new crate motor in 2009 (IMS failure), 110k miles on crate motor

Symptoms:

• Asymmetric toe-in (bushings?) - I align wheels regularly, usually the changes are roughly symmetric
• Porpoises when PASM is disabled (struts are EOL) - actually amazed at how well PASM can compensate for an aging damper
• Very faint and intermittent suspension squeaking from rear (I've not tried to lubricate the bushings)

Preferences, Habits, Limitations (nothing extraordinary):

• NVH doesn't bother me at all, but I need to take calls and talk to passengers. I have a 4x4 as my alternate vehicle FWIW.
• Active dampers (mentioned earlier) - I was worried about the PASM lifespan, I think 175k+ miles of usability is remarkable
• More autox, less track, almost always thinking about the apex
• Desire less understeer, less pitch than current OEM setup
• Desire lower ride height (may not be realistic). Alas, the -10mm with my stock PASM seems to be the limit on local streets (and my driveway)
• Don't mind adjusting and optimizing, and enjoy performance (like most here)
• Lean toward reliability and cost (i.e. pick two - performance, reliability and cost), but still willing to spend for high-value gains
• Don't need the latest and greatest (i.e. 20 years, 175k miles)
• Okay, I wouldn't say no to Tractive dampers with DCS, but really hard to justify in a DD
• I don't have infinite garage space and bays - probably a good thing

M3Cavalry

What is DCS?

r_towle

So, I did a thread on this at 99k miles
With pics of the failed parts.

struts
upper strut bushing/bearing
control arm
thrust arm
sway bar drop link
brake pads
(get a new level sensor bracket if pasm)
get all wheels checked and straightened
4 wheel aligment


rich

Monster231

Just wrapped up a full suspension refresh on my '06 C2S with 79K miles. The car was previously dropped on cut springs, making the ride bumpy as hell and causing me to bottom out all the time. I had B16s on a different 997 before, but they were too much for street driving—tight and sporty, but way too track-focused. This time, I went with 997.2 GT3 coilovers, new OEM control arms and droplinks all around, new sway bar bushings, and Wevo semi-solid motor mounts. I also got my wheels refinished, and they straightened out some slight lip bends. After corner-balancing and raising it to stock GT3 height, the ride quality and performance blew my mind. It's firm and sporty but also quiet and compliant, handling rough roads like a champ and staying flat in the turns. Next up is adding a DSC and getting fresh tires, but I'm really pumped with the improvement. I knew some of the rubber parts would be worn, but I didn’t expect to find some of it completely rotted.

useridchallenged

@Monster231 This is great feedback, especially on the B16s - exactly what I was looking for. I've heard the same as your experience with the B16s (some prefer the B12s), but others have said that the DSC can make a world of difference with the B16s (pretty much all dampers). Not sure how the B16s would hold up on a 10k mile/year DD?

Did you put 997.2 GT3 coilovers on a 997.1?

Did you replace with OEM GT3 control arms, or are the GT3 coilovers compatible with the C2S control arms?

Are you running stock sway bars?

useridchallenged

@M3Cavalry My bad - DSC, not DCS. If you're not already familiar, https://www.dscsport.com/product/dsc-vplug-n-play/

useridchallenged

@r_towle Thank you - I found your thread: https://rennlist.com/forums/997-foru...on-update.html

Which strut (brand/model) did you go with?

Monster231

@useridchallenged Yes, I put 997.2 GT3 coilovers on my 997.1. They are visually different, but have the same part number. I went with non-adjustable control arms (OEM C2S) they are compatible. I am running stock swaybars with the new bushings. I think the swaybar bushings smoothed out a lot of the clicky noises and notchy spots during turns

Bruce In Philly

2009 C2S 200K miles

If you want the DSC controller, you will need to add the accelerometer. Also, I would check with DSC to ensure whatever shock you want is compatible with their system.

With that many miles and years, I would change all control arms. They all have bushings and they all will go bad. For me, I go OEM and not Porsche-labeled but when I did my rears last year, only Meyle were available... but one was defective. Honestly, I would check all parts now regardless of source... the parts supply system in the world is full of mergers and aquisitions and moving/closing of facilities that I don't trust anything anymore.

I would also take a close look at the bearings... the fronts are probably fine, but the rears can go. You will have the whole thing apart so going further and replacing the rear bearings is not big deal. I did have to take the hubs to a speed shop and have them press out and in some parts..... call and ask them the price first as the Harbor Freight press is so darn cheap, I should have just purchased that one.... the shop was using that exact press as a production tool.

https://rennlist.com/forums/997-foru...ues-meyle.html

Peace
Bruce in Philly (now Atlanta)

Sylverlee

Would you do all the arms at once? Or would you start with just the coffin control arms? I thought I read the other arms have a longer life.

Bruce In Philly

I am assuming all the arms are original... if so, then yes I would change them all. I did just that on my rears and I know I had already changed that lower arm once... and maybe another but can't remember. They wear out. Oh, and I forgot, you should do the top mounts and those boots and bumper.

Keep in mind that when you change an arm, you should get an alignment that then adds some real cost. I didn't always do this... but the lower arm is different and you should get one for this arm for sure.

Peace
Bruce in Philly (now Atlanta)

useridchallenged

@Monster231 What ride height are you running with the 997.2 GT3 coilovers? GT3? GTS/SPASM? Is your ride height usable as a DD?

useridchallenged

@Bruce In Philly Thank you for those great high-mile tips. That's exactly what I was looking for.

Monster231

I set it to stock 997.2 GT3 height and had it corner balanced and aligned, which brought the rear down 2MM and the front up 1.5MM. My car was slammed before so I am used to scraping and dodging everything. Now, it feels like a safari car to me, it gobbles up the bumps, and other than unusually steep garage entries. I rarely scrape

M3Cavalry

@Monster231 what do GT3 coilovers cost? Do you have a link? Debating just putting my 997.2 C2S back to stock or trying something like your route.