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Just need a little clarity as my brakes still feel like a sponge.
Redid Lines, new calipers, new MC.
When I go through the individual menus start/stop (Bleed Rear Left, etc) nothing really happens other than a quick PSM light. Brakes tightened up but first press when car is on is still sponge.
Do I need to do "pump motor activation" instead? That seems to trigger the actual motor when I tested it.
Alex,
I'll chime in since there have been no responses so far.
A while back I committed the cardinal sin of letting the reservoir run dry during the bleeding process.
Even though I thoroughly bled the brakes following that, I still had a spongey brake pedal. It took me two
add'l bleeding procedures to get things back to normal. Since you essentially changed everything out in the
brake system. It just might take a few more passes to get out any residual air pockets.
I know this doesn't answer your Durametric question specifically, but hopefully it helps.
My experience is with a 987.2 and a Foxwell NT-530, so keep that in mind….. the foxwell has a bleed the PSM function where it tells you which corner to bleed in order, and it’s not the standard furthest first.
it ran through rear left, front left, right front, right rear.
it also turned the pump on at each corner. When I got to the third step, of front right, a bunch of foam came out when the pump was run, and after that, my pedal was firm…..
if the durametric doesn’t have a semi-auto bleed function, I would do those steps manually with the functions it gives you.
careful not to run the pump longer than 30 seconds continuous, and let it cool down a couple minutes between corners.
if you Google about psm bleeding with the durametric and 997, there are a number of threads discussing the order and pump usage…..
thanks all, yes i have the order of it all - just nothing is really “happening” when i activate it via durametric, i’ve read this can be normal but others have said they hear the actual pump activating.
the circled menu i can hear activates a pump - though i’m not sure which pump is being activated
when going through the brake bleed options below - i get a simple PSM click on the dash of the car, and that’s it. I’ve checked all online notes and there’s not much clarity
I just did the same in my Turbo. I didn't use Durametric but Foxwell NT530 and Autel shop diagnostic tool. I used 2 because when following the order (Dr Rear, Dr Front, Pass front, Pass rear), I didn't get any action out of the ABS till I got to the passenger side. Some research showed this was normal. You need some one to pump the brakes while bleeding the ABS unit, at least both of the diagnostic tool prompted to do so. After 2 rounds with normal bleeding after ABS bleeding, brake pedal was solid. Hopefully you blead the MC before you plugged the ABS lines in.
You don't need that setup to bleed the MC. Look at the cylinder: the outlet ports are at the top, it will self bleed.
Just fill the reservoir with the tubes loose to the MC. Once fluid starts to drip out of the ports tighten them up. That's all you need to do.
Yes, i don't need to bleed the MC - just the ABS unit and my brakes. the ABS function on the durametric is not well laid out but I'm going to test it out again later this week.
You don’t have to bleed the MC but it sure makes it a lot easier to bleed the rest of the system. When you don’t bleed the MC, you are pushing all the air into the system without knowing if all the air is out of the MC. It is a process of elimination. It took 10 minutes to bleed the MC and I was surprised at how much air comes out it. I blead the MC with it on the car while the wife pumped the pedal.
You don’t have to bleed the MC but it sure makes it a lot easier to bleed the rest of the system. When you don’t bleed the MC, you are pushing all the air into the system without knowing if all the air is out of the MC. It is a process of elimination. It took 10 minutes to bleed the MC and I was surprised at how much air comes out it. I blead the MC with it on the car while the wife pumped the pedal.
I agree you should bleed the MC, I'm just saying you don't need to jury-rig a setup with tubes like that. Go back and read what I wrote.
Look closely at the master cylinder. The outlet ports both come out of the top of the cylinder by design: if they did not you would have an air trap. Because of that you can just gravity bleed it: all you need to do is leave the outlet hoses loose, fill the master cylinder, and wait a little bit. The brake fluid will flow into the two chambers of the master cylinder and fill it from the bottom, pushing the air out the top. Once liquid starts dripping from the outlet fittings tighten them up and you're done: the MC is full of liquid.
It's simpler and less messy than what you guys are doing, and it works just as well.
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Durametric ABS Bleed Clarity
