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Torque spec for Wheel stud nuts?

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Old Jan 9, 2024 | 12:04 PM
  #16  
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Originally Posted by leeked
All of the people that want to keep bolting on your wheels under-torqued, go right ahead, just stay off any road or track I might be on. I'm done with you.
@8x57IRS is just pointing out that the workshop manual you linked states the retroactive torque spec



The difference in torque spec for different color bolts implies different compositions. As I suggested earlier, if you are using an aftermarket stud kit, it would be safest to get in touch with the manufacturer to obtain official torque specifications for the specific fastener in question.
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Old Jan 10, 2024 | 10:48 PM
  #17  
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Originally Posted by leeked
Nice to be considered a smart *** for providing correct information, so let me bring some receipts.

Petza is correct, your owners manual is outdated. Please refer to Porsche documents such as WM 4001TW and WM 440519 for the updated information. It should also be noted that these are a lubricated torque spec, so putting them in dry will result in under-torquing your lug bolts.
I do appreciate that you provided those documents. I had seen the 118 ft-lbs referenced but never saw the actual Porsche reference. Thanks for providing them. I do see that 96 ft-lbs still appears as primary and 118 is "also permitted". So I don't see that either value is incorrect - my bad. Perhaps it was the increase in engine/drive torque for the .2 and 991 that caused Porsche to up the value. But you are still a smart a** for taking such an attitude about this. Bad forum form, IMO.

Originally Posted by leeked
All of the people that want to keep bolting on your wheels under-torqued, go right ahead, just stay off any road or track I might be on. I'm done with you.
You need to lay off the coffee or whatever is amping you up so much over this. More bad forum form.

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Old Jan 13, 2024 | 08:40 AM
  #18  
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After all of that, and to actually answer your question, you should be using no more than 95 ft/lbs with studs and nuts (typically listed as such in the instructions for them). This is the general consensus across all track/race studs on Porsches using full slicks etc, and the wheels do not fall off.
To be clear, this isn't an opinion, but a professional consensus applied to both my personal and 100's of client's cars. Do with it what you will.
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Old Jan 13, 2024 | 10:25 AM
  #19  
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As mentioned above Porsche changed their torque specs to 118, dry. They found over-torqueing failures using the "wet" lube. Regardless of the torque value the lugs or nuts should be checked periodically cold. At least a daily requirement if you track. If you use a tire shop slip the worker a $20 to ensure they hand torque, not air gun. Common practice at a "Porsche" independent shop. Retorqueing when "hot" will result in over torqueing. I had one four year old lug fail last year and replaced all of them. You will find many who track replace studs or lugs after a few years as preemptive maintenance. The many heat cycles and torqueing case "fatigue" failure. If you have studs and track make sure you have the tools to extract a broken stud and a spare stud. Studs are commonly used for those who track to make wheel changes quicker. Most clubs and tracks will not allow spacers.
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Old Jan 13, 2024 | 11:06 AM
  #20  
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Originally Posted by Ptech1
After all of that, and to actually answer your question, you should be using no more than 95 ft/lbs with studs and nuts (typically listed as such in the instructions for them). This is the general consensus across all track/race studs on Porsches using full slicks etc, and the wheels do not fall off.
To be clear, this isn't an opinion, but a professional consensus applied to both my personal and 100's of client's cars. Do with it what you will.
Thanks.

Jaba
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