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I just did a rear brake job and saw this. Upper, most rear arm. Well? What do you think?
Which brand of arm to use? Meyle? Febi Bilstein? HT (Hamborg Technic)? Or Porsche-labeled? For the Porsche labeled, the price appears to be around $180 and for the other brands, around $70 give or take.
Now for the last 6 months or so, I have been getting a jangling/clanking from my rear when driving slowly over finely chopped bumps. So, like the knee-jerk reaction of the 'net... it was sway bar links. So, for what, $60 or so, I changed them out. Nothing. I will say this about sway bar links: in the 386K miles I did in my two Porsches, never were the sway bar links bad... front or rear.
So.... looks like I am going to change these out, left and right sides. I hope this was the source of my noise. I am not optimistic it is the noise.... I used a crowbar in there to move all the control arm joints... all move to some degree as they should given the use of rubber... but the torn one did not move any more than the others. Oh well.... spend and see.... I can use my chassis ears on this ... I was if I didn't see something when I did my brakes. Chassis ears are really great but a pain to use.
Peace
Bruce in Philly (now Atlanta)
Last edited by Bruce In Philly; 01-16-2023 at 06:36 PM.
I can imagine the diagnostic cycles (position-secure-drive-listen) for the chassis ears is tedious but it's the best way to narrow down the culprit area. It seems there are enough confounding symptoms/sounds (muffler, cats, brackets, pulleys, etc.) to make the suspension parts an only low- , medium- probability for the cause. On the other hand, rubber-based parts definitely wear out. It's also possible a fastener became un-torqued. If you do change out a rubber-based part, you should consider changing out others that are "touched" in vicinity to the one you're working on. When I switched to coilovers I changed out all the rubber-based parts in the vicinity. This vicinity-based approach may also save having to have more than one alignment.
I can imagine the diagnostic cycles (position-secure-drive-listen) for the chassis ears is tedious but it's the best way to narrow down the culprit area. It seems there are enough confounding symptoms/sounds (muffler, cats, brackets, pulleys, etc.) to make the suspension parts an only low- , medium- probability for the cause. On the other hand, rubber-based parts definitely wear out. It's also possible a fastener became un-torqued. If you do change out a rubber-based part, you should consider changing out others that are "touched" in vicinity to the one you're working on. When I switched to coilovers I changed out all the rubber-based parts in the vicinity. This vicinity-based approach may also save having to have more than one alignment.
Yes, and each time you have to jack and remove the wheel then tape the lines. It does work, but you are in for a day's work.
01-16-2023, 05:41 PM
Bad Control Arm - Noise - Torn Bushing
