997.1 C4S suspension refresh
#1
Advanced
Thread Starter
997.1 C4S suspension refresh
I was hoping I could get some critique of my shopping cart so far. Anything I should add or subtract? I’m at 113k and it seems all is original. I would like to replace everything that should be replaced in order to have as close to a like new suspension as possible. Thanks in advance for any advice!
#2
Rennlist Member
If they are original, replacement of all four top mounts/bearings are more than likely necessary, as well as the rear coffin (lower control) arms.
I would personally advise that you go with Genuine parts in the case of control arms. The bushings lasted 113k miles, and wouldn’t you love to get 113k more out of them? The aftermarket brands available are not of the highest quality.
I would personally advise that you go with Genuine parts in the case of control arms. The bushings lasted 113k miles, and wouldn’t you love to get 113k more out of them? The aftermarket brands available are not of the highest quality.
#3
Pro
This is what I purchased from FCP for just the shock install... https://www.fcpeuro.com/cart?utm_sou...1060847848%232
#4
Pro
And this is where i got the Bilsteins from...came quickly and perfect condition. Saved me a few bucks over any other source, $500 is $500. https://smile.amazon.com/gp/product/...?ie=UTF8&psc=1
Last edited by frybear; 05-10-2022 at 10:13 AM.
#5
Advanced
Thread Starter
Thanks. I think new bump stops and mounts makes sense. I will just need to bite the bullet on all of this to get another 100k out of this.
I thought about DIY, but the online videos show mechanics with perfect tools and lifts struggling with some of the removal. I wish I could just pay an indy shop to let me hang out for a weekend and use their stuff.
Thanks for the input.
I thought about DIY, but the online videos show mechanics with perfect tools and lifts struggling with some of the removal. I wish I could just pay an indy shop to let me hang out for a weekend and use their stuff.
Thanks for the input.
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#8
I did this refresh in stages. I did front arms one day, rear arms the next day. Then another weekend day, I did the dampers, springs, top mounts, bump stops. I had a lift and plenty of tools so I would definitely allocate yourself ample time to do it all. Also if you don't have an alignment rack / strings at home, make sure you mark your eccentric bolts for toe and camber to get yourself back into the ballpark so you can drive to the alignment shop.
For reference, it took me about 2 hours for the front end arms/tie rods, 4 hours for the rear 10 arms, 4 hours for the full dampers. If i were to do it again, i'd replace the dampers/springs for each axle at the same time as the arms because I had to do the work twice. Overall, it wasn't a hard job but it was time consuming.
I recommend breaking the axle bolt loose on the front end before you drop the knuckle as well. Otherwise, you risk pulling the inner stub out and you'll need to wrestle that back in while the knuckle is flopping around and whatnot.
For reference, it took me about 2 hours for the front end arms/tie rods, 4 hours for the rear 10 arms, 4 hours for the full dampers. If i were to do it again, i'd replace the dampers/springs for each axle at the same time as the arms because I had to do the work twice. Overall, it wasn't a hard job but it was time consuming.
I recommend breaking the axle bolt loose on the front end before you drop the knuckle as well. Otherwise, you risk pulling the inner stub out and you'll need to wrestle that back in while the knuckle is flopping around and whatnot.
Last edited by andino; 05-10-2022 at 03:16 PM.
#9
Racer
"I recommend breaking the axle bolt loose on the front end before you drop the knuckle as well. Otherwise, you risk pulling the inner stub out and you'll need to wrestle that back in while the knuckle is flopping around and whatnot."
I'd second this recommendation, pulling the inner half-shaft out of the front differential can be a nasty surprise, don't ask me how I know.
I'd second this recommendation, pulling the inner half-shaft out of the front differential can be a nasty surprise, don't ask me how I know.
#10
#12
This is what I purchased from FCP for just the shock install... https://www.fcpeuro.com/cart?utm_sou...1060847848%232
I’m thinking bump stops and strut mounts but I’m not smart enough in Porsche’s to understand exactly what parts I need. I see front strut mounts but is the rear different? Are there 4 exact same bump stops or 2 front and 2 rear that are different? What about the sleeve things for the shocks? Any bearings?
thanks if anyone can help me know what I need 🙏🏼
#13
Rennlist Member
Having just done this, fronts and backs are different. I replaced bump stops, all mounts, struts and the bellows that cover the struts. My control arms and tie rods were fine.
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VB_CarreraS (10-08-2023)
#14
Rennlist Member
+100. Never use Hamburg Tehnic parts. Not just their control arms but their strut mounts, etc are all very cheap. As my most recent example of their poor quality we were putting new struts and mounts on the back of our 986 Boxster. When torquing down the top bolts to the specified 24ft-lbs, the strut three strut mount bolts started turning in the strut mount at about 10 ft lbs. So we couldn't torque them down but we also couldn't take them off! It took hours of cutting with dremel tools and trying various thing to get the defective mount out of the car. I've had similar quality issues with strut mounts for my 2016 Golf R and other HT products. Steer clear!