hey guys,

Took my 2009 tt 6 speed in for an inspection and there are a few items I need to address. All the smaller items I have already address but the big items are all related to the braking system.

- Rotors all the way around need to be replaced
- parking brake shoes/drum rusted
- Parking brake weak cable/sticking

I have ordered new rotors for all 4 corners I expect this will take care of the first two items (the mechanic said all my pads were fine.. I did however order new hawk ceramic pads but they were backordered so may not be here right away).

For the parking brake cable is there a way to lubricate this? I am hoping once I get the rear rotors off and work the parking brake I can see some place to lubricate it or it will just free itself up. Or should I just replace the cable (I believe I would need two part#99742414106)?

Thank you

 

2009 C2S 175K miles

I replaced my wheel hubs and bearings so I had to remove and replace the emergency brake system... I am intimately familiar with that D**N system. In short, do not remove any part of it at all. It is hellish to put back together.

Some points:
1 - The cable is unbelievably difficult to remove from the hub... don't even try. If you are curious as to why, the diagram in parts Katalog is incorrect and the thing is frozen in place. I think you can lubricate the cable, but honestly, I am super surprised it is binding up... it shouldn't do that. If you want to lubricate it, do it from the top, inside the cabin. Have to get access to the anchor points. You may be able to spray some stuff in there like a bicycle cable.... butt... beware, you don't want the lubricant to drain down into the brake as it may affect the emergency brake performance.
2 - The emergecy brake shoe system can be lubricated butt again, you don't want lubricant dripping or migrating anywhwere. Again, I am surprised that it is binding up... I really am not sure how that can happen. When you pull the rotors off, you will see what I mean. My brake system is not lubricated... I did not get any grease on my fingers from any of the parts when I removed and replaced it.
3 - The shoes being rusty.... so what? Take some scotch brite and rub the shoe smooth. Done. Or just apply the brake lightly while driving. This is not a super-sensitive system... it is a brute-force mechanism.
4 - There is no drum... the drum is the inside of the rotors... so a new rotor is a new drum.

There is little to go wrong with this system. I recommend pulling the rotor off as you would when you replace them, then apply the emergency brake over and over again and observe its functioning. I am not sure if you can overextend the shoes without the rotor in place, just be careful. I suspect you are not going to find anything wrong in there.

BTW, how did the tech know if the emergency brake system was rusted? He/she must have removed the brakes and rotor to see.

Peace
Bruce in Philly (now Atlanta)

At 7:45 you can see the shoe system (blue)... you need to release the parking brake if on (because it is pressed to the rotor).

 

Thanks for the response. I will have a look when I replace the rotors and maybe they were just binding up on the rusted drum which will be corrected with the new rotors. Hoping to get this done asap

 

If they were grinding when you apply the brake while turning, that is normal. Nothing is wrong.

Peace
Bruce in Philly (now Atlanta)

 

I dont know what the inspector was seeing. I just replaced the rear rotors and re-adjusted the parking brake and it seems to function fine. He better not fail it for this at my re-inspection or ill be upset. Even before it felt fine and held the car.