kcautodoc

Hello everyone. I've been stalking the place for years but now have a question I cannot solve. I have a 997.2 GTS with a luggage compartment (frunk) latch that will not operate. I have the wiring diagram and have checked the following.

Fuse - good
Key release button - signal is reaching the car (light on dash flashes)
Feeding 12v to release motor will cause actuation
Release switch in car by seat - no response - I'm uncertain how to test if it's functional

I am wondering what to test next and how to test whatever is next. Based on the wiring diagram there is a 'front lock microswitch' which appears to be in the hood latch which goes to the front end control unit. Do you know what voltage should be coming out of the front control box and under what conditions I will see this voltage? Does the front lock micro switch disable the hood release?

I'm at a loss as to what to do next and would prefer to not 'rig' in a new circuit to fix the situation.

Thanks for whatever help you can provide.

Richard

Wayne Smith

The front computer located under the carpet on the right side of the car inside the frunk compartment controls a lot of stuff. For instance, the frunk is open switch feeds into the computer which then decides to turn on the frunk light (thus involving an input and an output) for a time period. This computer appears to be subject to random failure. A friend insisted his wife blew his up when she brushed the front fender with her yoga pants. I don't know what took mine out, creating a very bizarre logic failure on my hazard flashers.

Back on topic, if I were to guess I would say you have a problem there. If you have a local indie you could see if they have one they could swap for a test. Or maybe your dealer will be friendly.

In the meantime I would route a second cable from the bottom of the latch lever to behind the right side light to make opening the frunk easier.

Bruce In Philly

2009 C2S 174K

Have access to a code reader? A Durametric can read codes and then forcibly reset that module. Maybe try unhooking your battery for 5 minutes or so to reset the modules... assuming you can get the frunk open.

Wayne, did your module throw any codes?

Peace
Bruce in Philly (now Atlanta)

Wayne Smith

No codes. By disconnecting the battery I could start the car and drive. But as soon as I shut the car down the flashers would turn on. And the only way to shut them off was to disconnect the battery. Sometimes it would take two on / off cycles before the hazards would turn on. Sometimes they would wait to turn on until the second start. But sometimes they would turn on at the first start. Yeah, it was all over the map.

The replacement computer had an input problem with the frunk open sense. It never realized the frunk was open so it wouldn't turn the frunk light on. But it did see the frunk was open when I set the alarm with the frunk lid up. I could turn the frunk light on with a Durametric so the output was OK. Yeah, weird. I ended up rewiring the light to be directly driven by the frunk open switch and added an in line switch to shut it off if I ever wanted to leave the frunk open. I did this in a way that can easily be reverted if I ever need to change the computer out again.

Bottom line ... In my experience the front computer is vulnerable and can fail in a lot of "interesting" ways. So I'm prone to blame it.

kcautodoc

Thanks. I'll try unhooking the battery and see if that helps. I'll see if I can get ahold of a Durametric and try to reset the module. Frunk is open. That was a whole other fiasco.

Wayne Smith

That fiasco is greatly diminished with an alternate routing of a mechanical release cable.