Wayne Smith

That is definitely different than the 997.2 latch. The net operation is the same but the 997.2 pulls from the top right and has a second solenoid pulling from the bottom left to release the secondary latch should the escape lever be operated from inside the frunk.

Bruce In Philly

2009 C2S 170K miles

Mr/Ms CayenneS2083 , I gotta ask... are you sure the battery connect to the fuse box does not work? Are you really really sure?

The reason I ask this is two: 1) This could happen to me and 2) Porsche thought about this and has a procedure. If the Porsche-designed procedure doesn't work... then what is broken about it?

Porsche owners store their cars... pull out batteries..... this stuff happens all the time I am sure.... I just don't understand why the Porsche-designed procedure would not work? Is the battery you are using to connect to the fuse box healthy? Are the connections tight and secure? I just don't get this.

BTW... Wayne, B3Freak....... oil that thing!!! Just an old maintenance issue.... but boy it can make a latch last ... and I suspect, make it easier to pull that emergency cable. I use that miracle stuff, Winzer Poly Lube.... my Porsche dealer sells it at their parts counter and a local BMW indy uses it in their shop.. they get it from their parts supply company.

Peace
Bruce in Philly

Wayne Smith

I have oiled it. But if you look closely at how the 997.2 manual release cable works it depends on pulling the sheath out of the coupling at the latch. This will then develop cable tension to pull on the latch itself. And the angles are all wrong for getting mechanical advantage or purchase.

If the Porsche method at the fuse box doesn't work it may be that the solenoid is burnt out. Or there is a connection problem to the solenoid. Then all electrical over rides are useless. I mentioned this problem in another thread in regards to a Honda Accord I helped out. But this isn't likely of the electronics were working just before the battery went dead.

Then again, recently I've had three bizarre failures regarding the front computer that have given me insight to how much that device controls ... And how it appears to be highly prone to failures given unexpected or unspecified voltages. It is humbling ... The longer I own this car the more I realize all the stuff I don't know!!!

Floyd540

Bruce, the fuse box method works. The process is detailed in the owners manual and a copy is provided inside the fuse box cover. The issue with this that it has to be followed exactly. This includes pulling the contact out FULLY; connecting a ground to the latch; using the key fobb REMOTE. The posts we read about where this procedure did not work include using the cigarette lighter socket; using the frunk opening switch next to the seat etc. All of the things that were not included in the proper procedure.
Reading and following directions is an advanced subject I guess.

Wayne Smith

In the FWIW category ... The lower latch lever attachment point with cable running to the opposite side works ... Beautifully!!! And is one of the easiest mods you can do. And cheapest 8)

Wayne Smith

And just to be complete ... The cable capture which fits under the side light securing clip and behind it. Easy access should you ever need it. Easy to pull with minimal required force should you ever use it.

ManoTexas

Wayne, I look forward to this weekend when you swing by and update mine.

Prairiedawg

So that's just a piece of yellow wire ran to the side marker light? If so, can you show how you connected to the release assembly.

Jaws1

Thanks Wayne Smith. The bumper was coming off this weekend to clean the rads. I’ll add this to the “to do” list while I’m in there.

Wayne Smith

See pictures on previous posts for details.

I used some spare 16 AWG MTW (machinist tool worker ... fine stranded) wire that I had laying around. But almost anything would work. I stripped back and looped the latch end, heated up the wire so the solder would melt into the strands, slipped that over the slot / hole on the bottom side of the lever arm, and then used pliers to "crimp" it. Nothing fancy or special.

Wayne Smith

Two different frunk threads going on. I cross posted. Sorry. Please refer to both for my full results. Bottom line ... It works!!!

Prairiedawg

Is/was there anything connected to the point where your soldered "eye" attaches? What are the black sheathed wires that go into the mechanism where your new and improved latch wire enters?

Looks like you just ran enough wire to loop around your hand to pull, must not take much effort to pull/release?


Looks like a great way to release your frunk! No removing a wheel, wondering if I'm pulling hard enough on the factory pull wire, plus the 1 time I left my keys in the ignition and ran the battery down, I was extremely lucky. I had just enough juice to pop it with the fob. It then dawned on me the centerlock key was in the frunk!

This will be on my list of things to do as soon as it comes out of storage. Great Job!

Wayne Smith

There was nothing connected there. The solenoid cable connects at the other end of this lever. The wires sense that the latch has opened and feed into the front computer module to start the timer for powering the frunk light. It only requires a couple of pounds of force to open.

See the other frunk post for more info and pictures. I screwed up and posted some stuff on one post and other stuff on the other.

Prairiedawg

Excellent work, looks like a must do with minimal effort. Can the loop be attached with the mechanism left in place?

Sorry for so many questions, my car is offline for another month when it comes out of hibernation. This will be one of the first things I do.

Wayne Smith

The front is covered with a black plate so you can't get to the lever. Pull off the side and front trim pieces around the frunk. Lift the front edge of the weather stripping. Pull back on the carpet. Use a black Sharpie to mark the washer locations before using a 10 mm wrench to just loosen the mounting bolts. This will five you a reference when you reinstall the latch. Pull up on the sheet metal shield that is covering the latch (loosen the left bolt a bit more if it feels stuck). Pull up on the solenoid cable sheath connection and the cable connection to remove those from the latch. Now remove the mounting bolts. There will be enough spare wire from the "frunk open" sensor to lift the latch and tilt it over (beware the emergency escape solenoid at the bottom). Now you can install the new manual release wire / cable. Route this out toward the car's right side (to your left) at the bottom being careful to not wrap it around the sensor cable. Go in reverse order to reassemble. Don't forget to install the solenoid cable!!! Route the new release wire through the front and to the side light (slide back from the front of the side light to pop it out). I was able to use a coat hanger to pull the wire through so I did not need to remove the fender liner or the bumper. But be careful to not wrap it around anything.

Use a screw driver to "close" the latch. Pull on the release cable to test, making sure it's not pinched between the latch and the body. Wrap the wire through the side light mounting hole one time to keep it in place. Snap the side light in. Have a beer.