Funny thing is I was actually going to post them up for sale in a couple months. I'll let you know if I go through with that👌

I didn't install the kit actually. The wheel width and offset make the wheel sit too close to the strut and there wouldn't enough clearance. On top of that, the Ohlins supplied endlink bracket may also come in contact. I'm going to leave it for now but I may add it in a year or so if I want to make those changes.

Yeah it took months of talking myself to doing it..😭😭

Thanks!

Tbh they're all different designs that do the same thing and some look cooler than others. I like elephant racing's quality and designs but I was looking at pricing and my needs. If there was a company that made the same items but in hard rubber I'd go that route all day. Comfort over function comes in handy sometimes lol

 

Channelled your inner Nakai-san and cut away! Did you have a cigarette dangling from the corner of your mouth too?

 

Late last year I got an email from Ohlins stating that the coilovers I had just got installed were recall items! Ohlins sent the correct parts (2x front dampers and top hats) and I had those installed right away. I then decided to run a more streetable setup and preserve my precious tires with -1.5 deg camber up front and 2.5 deg in the rear with toe set to 0 all around. Will definitely need to get some advice on the perfect setup for the track but let's perfect everything first.

3deg camber

1.5deg camber




Okay so I've finally got the wheels to fit(kinda). I've gone through 3 tanks on these and have VERY minimal rubbing (which I think has alot to do with the old beat up liners).


So I first test fit the wheels and took note on which areas needed additional clearance. After searching for DAYS for a side radiator bracket removal DIY, I said "**** it" and went through the motions myself. Pwderhound has a write up on how to relocate the radiator brackets for the 996 model but the brackets are a bit different on the 997. Anyways, I removed the front bumper, front portion of the fender liners(completely) and removed 3-4 nuts/bolts in order to move the bracket to where I thought was a safe place. Keep in mind that if the bracket is moved forward TOO much, you may have issues getting the front bumper back on properly as the radiator ducts are made to mate with the bumper openings. Before tightening up the radiator brackets back down, I placed small 1/2" spacers(washers can be used too) behind the lower of the two studs in the wheel well area of the bracket. Feel free to slot those brackets if you need to.

Spacer behind the bolt and bracket

Now the bottom/front of the bracket(under the car)has a hole meant for a bolt...that bolt no longer lines up to the original hole. You now have to either slot the existing hole in the bracket or drill another hole right next to it. I cleaned it up with a file and hit it with some rustoleum and put everything back together.



Now before putting the wheels back on, I used a heat gun to reform the areas in contact with the tire and used a can of black plastidip to spray the areas that would most likely be in contact with the tire. (Kinda messy but these liners are going in the trash anyways)



This little modification seems to have worked pretty well. Relocating the rad brackets ended up pulling the fender liners forward quite a bit. The tire does however rub occasionally in the rear on the Driverside where the windshield washer bottle sits(you can see it in the last pic). I plan on doing all or one of the 3:

1. Shave down the lip on the washer bottle (there's a lip that runs down the bottle, doesn't look like it'll cause any harm)
2. Relocate/slot/modify mounting brackets for the fluid reservoir.
3. Adjust the caster to bring the wheels a tad bit forward for clearance since the majority of the clearance was added to the front of the tire.

LOTS OF WORK TO GET THESE TO FIT! But worth it imo 😂

Now Im getting this squeaking noise while driving down the road. It seems to only start after about 5 minutes of driving but mainly goes with the suspension while going over bumps, lame changes, any kind of driving really etc. But I also started hearing a constant squeaking sound at idle aswell. I believe the squeaking is coming from the spherical bushings on the toe arms in the rear(only 3months old...) and tensioner/pulley. So I stopped by the local Porsche dealer and grabbed a bunch of parts and will be getting everything installed along with a pair of e-cutouts on Friday.

Parts list:
1x OEM Serpentine belt
1x OEM Tensioner(updated part #:0PB-903-308)
1x OEM Tensioner Pulley​​​​​3x OEM Bolts/hardware
1x OEM Driverside Bumper/Fender Bracket (broke mine removing my bumper)
1x OEM Clutch Pedal Switch (Car sometimes doesn't want to start up even with pedal depressed)
1x OEM Clutch Pedal Return Spring(pedal is slow to return at high rpm gear changes)
​​​​​​3x Motul RBF600(due for a brake flush and hoping to figure out the gear changing issue)
6x Rubber boots or Heim joints

Also something I've been waiting forever to do...wheel studs and nuts!

Ordered a set of studs to put on the car but got conversion studs instead of the regular ones(m14x1.5 to m12x1.5) so I can use my fancy floating washer nuts on the new wheels. After receiving my wheel centers with a ball seat instead of the cone seat and realizing how hard they would be to sell down the road, I ask for an exchange. The studs are from Motorsports Hardware and I gotta say I was surprised they took the studs back with no questions asked, 3 months after I received them. Money back was also an option too I believe 👍👍. Anyways they were quick to send out the new studs and I just paid the shipping costs. I then found a set of steel black open end nuts to go with them and installed them this past weekend. Installation took about 1.5hrs but that was with me taking my sweet time and double checking that they were installed correctly. Instructions were clear as day: Apply blue loctite, hand tighten, torque to 25ftlb, torque nuts to 110ftlb. It felt great not having to awkwardly hold the wheel perfectly aligned only to struggle with the wheel bolts😂.






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Next are the final touches
- Tow hooks/straps
- PMNA Cup Uprights(ordered)
- PMNA Cup Flaps(ordered)
- PMNA Cup Lip(ordered)
- PMNA Cup Fender liners (ordered)
- Getty Cup Wing Blade(Maybe Voltex Type 13 cause it's more aggressive)- 991.2 Steering Wheel
- OEM GT3 Center Radiator kit
- Yellow seat belts



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nice build! it's amazing that you're doing it all yourself. what are your plans for power?

 

Was planning on supercharger but the reviews on customer service and tune compatibility are pretty poor. So I intend to learn the car as is with no power mods until a Turbo or Turbo S pops up.

 

Awesome build Pretty close to my specs if you're going with a Voltex Type 13. The BBS Monoblocks you mention actually did come in 5 lug and cup spec but was only a limited run.

 

So that final touches have been completed. Ordered an OMP Tow strap in yellow for the front, along with new Cup fender liners and a lip from FVD and installed those just the other night.











I also got a set of uprights, 1700mm Carbon fiber blade w/gurney flap, and some vinyl wrap for the end plates. Once I got the wing I scuffed the surface with a red scuffing pads and clearcoated the top of the wing blade.













I wanted to do a black and yellow theme so I wrapped the inside with a gloss yellow vinyl and the outside with a forged carbon wrap which must say turned out AMAZING.







There are a few more bits and pieces but for the most part, the car is pretty much done! Im on the fence about doing some canards up front due to our laws up here(hence the reason for the strap over the tow hook). I'll be getting some exaust work done sometime this year, some new seats, and a 991 steering wheel which should pretty much wrap up the project. I'm eager to get on track this year to put this thing to work 😎




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First track day of the year in the books! Got a last minute invite to a local track, Mission Raceways. It was my first time at this specific track and first time running this setup so I only hope I can improve from here on! The fastest time for me that day was a 1:15.4, I'll upload a few videos later on.

 

Okay so we're halfway through 2021 and I've had a chance to get out to all our local racetracks multiple times. Started the year out with a shakedown day at Mission Raceways in Mission, BC. It was my first-time on this track and which was pretty intimidating. After a few sessions and finding the limits/learning the behaviour of the car, I was able to run a few consistent 1:15's and 1:16's. I never thought an AWD 911 would be this fun!!

Overall take away was, I needed to play around and find the right tire pressures, suspension and alignment settings. Knowing I could benefit from taking the car into a raceshop to get all that sorted, I decided to just try and mess with the car myself 😅. I ended up going from -1.5 deg camber to -3deg camber up front. The rear is set to 2.5 deg with 0 toe all around using Vorshlag camber plates and a Smart String Alignment kit. Tires are NT01 and the soft spot I found for these is about 33/34psi hot.

Fast forward to the second event which was a Time Attack style event which was broken down like this..5 sessions: 5 laps. 1 warm up lap, 3 timed laps and 1 cool down lap. With the new setup, I was able to shave off a few seconds, dropping down into the 1:13's. This was great news seeing that the other two cars that were faster were a 991.2 RS(1:10) and GT3(1:12). This car has so much potential it's amazing!!

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Bonus: 997.1 Turbo track car😍😍
Stay tuned for an update on both Vancouver Island Motorsports Park and Area 27 Racetrack!
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Insane build. Keep it up!!

 

Thanks 👍

Just another update. I attended another trackday at Mission Raceways with the PCA group but somehow overlooked my brake pads. I was able to complete 2 sessions and on the cool down lap on the second one, I noticed the brake pedal feel a bit outta whack along with an noise coming from the passenger side front wheel(lots of right turns at mission). Pulled into the pits only to see the pads all the down to about 5-10%. The weird part was the inside pad had worn down completely and the backing plate had contacted the rotor😲. I managed to get BCAA to tow the car home.





Once I got home, I pulled the wheels and rotors off to see what the damage was. It turns out that either the pistons were seized on the inside of the caliper or something as the seals were all torn up from the heat. The rotor looks like it may have some brake pad material stuck on the inside along with a bit if warpage/waviness.









So that leaves me with the option to replace the rotors, I have a set of hawk pads I can use and fix the caliper or Upgrade to 350mm or 380mm rotor up front(GT2/Turbo setup).
​​​​​​
I weighted out the pros and cons and decided on the upgrade.
Ordered Yellow GT2 Calipers, 350mm Turbo rotors, Ferodo pads and new hardware...then I realized those pieces won't work with each other LOL. I meant to order the 6 piston 996 calipers to use with the remainder of the parts posted...

My last few track days are Aug 28th, Sept 11&12th. Im pretty certain I'd like to eventually go for the 380mm setup and I think I'll have to keep the calipers, pick up some 2 piece rotors, GT3 MC and do the complete front and rear in the new year.






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Car looks great! Nice setup....

 

What do the Cup fender liners offer that OEM liners do not? Is it a worthy upgrade for any 997?
Thanks.

 

Thanks!

They just offer more clearance for cars with the cup flares on. They won't work under stock(uncut) fenders.

 

wow, what a write up, thank you for sharing. I just got into a 997.2 c2 base my self, 1st P-car, and all I have done is washed the car and picked up some 99.1 rims, now on tire hunt. all the best with your tuning, may reach out for some specifics on your finding, as these rear engine cars are a different beast.