Frederic944

Ladies and gentlemen,

First of all, I want to thank all of you for making this forum so enjoyable to read and so informational. Now, I'm coming to you with what seems an easy issue but didn't find a definitive answer going through the forum.
The problem is that my clutch doesn't seem to disengage enough to allow gear engagement without grinding noise.
Some background now:
First, the car, a 2006 997.1 Carrera 2.

It started when I dropped the transmission to install new a RMS, checking the IMS bearing and removing the seal to allow full lubrification.
When the transmission was out here's the list of what I installed new:
- Asco Motorsport Lightweight sport version flywheel P/N: 106411-11
- Sachs Performance Clutch Friction disc P/N: 881861999856
- Sachs Performance Releaser P/N: 3151000394

After all that was installed and before reinstalling the transmission, I wanted to test that there was no leak and to allow me to see, I asked my son to start the vehicle and of course, to start, you need to push the clutch but as the transmission was fitted back, the clutch Slave Cylinder had nothing to push so at that time, I'm pretty sure that I damaged it by over extending. (The Clutch Slave Cylinder was still hooked up to its hydraulic line). I agree that it was stupid to ask him to push the pedal in order to start instead of just pushing the Clutch Interlock switch.

So, after that, I bought a new Clutch Slave Cylinder (Sachs SH6196), installed it, put back the transmission and bled the clutch system as Porsche recommends to do it:
- Remote pressurized (1.3 bar) reservoid hooked up to the brake-clutch expansion tank.
- set the pressure at 1.3 bar
- Push the Clutch pedal
- open the bleeder screw and let the fluid drains for at least 30 sec.
- then stroke back and forth slowly the clutch pedal: maybe 10-15 times for at least 60 sec
- Close the bleeder screw after no more air gets out of the bleeder screw through a clear tube.
- This was done through a remote clutch bleed line sold by DemonMotorsports to simplify the process


It didn't fix the issue, still couldn't engage a gear without grinding.

Then, I tried the reverse bleeding process where, by using an oiler can type with an integrated pump, you inject brake fluid through the bleeder forcing the air to go up via the clutch lines to the expansion tank up front in the frunk, same results, clutch still short of disengaging enough to engage a gear.

So, now, with your knowledge, do you think my last resort is also to change the Clutch Master cylinder? That I certainly damaged also by pushing the clutch without any lever and resistance to counter its action?

Thanks in advance for any feedback.

Frederic

andino

If you have access to PIWIS or Durametric, you can try doing the ABS module bleed procedure to make sure there's no air in the master and abs modules. Could be a good step to try before going through the trouble of replacing the master. I haven't run into this issue with my 997 but I have had luck with doing a similar procedure on my BMWs. Worth a shot anyway to try it before replacing the master and having to rebleed to entire system.

Frederic944

Andino,

The issue I'm having is with the clutch not the brakes, doing the ABS bleeding procedure won't do anything with the Clutch hydraulic system.

Thanks

Frederic

andino

Except that the systems are tied together since they use the same reservoir. The clutch and brake system rely on brake fluid and not hydraulic like in the turbo/mezgar cars. You're welcome to go replacing parts though if that's what you're set on. I figured you'd like to try some debugging options before having to rip the system apart.

Frederic944

Andino,

Don't take it wrong, I appreciate your help but the Brake system and Clutch system only share the same fluid and same expansion tank but none of the lines are shared, see picture below: