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I love using the clay bar. You can make it even easier by incorporating it into your wash (depending on your paint condition).
I just tried Iron Remover today, which is like a clay bar substitute and it’s great. If you haven’t tried that approach, I’d recommend it before your next detail.
I love using the clay bar. You can make it even easier by incorporating it into your wash (depending on your paint condition).
I just tried Iron Remover today, which is like a clay bar substitute and it’s great. If you haven’t tried that approach, I’d recommend it before your next detail.
Iron remover is not a clay bar substitute. Iron remover use is speculative at best. Yes it turns colors, but it does not remove particles from your paint surface.
Bruce, I love you, man, but if you scratched your car using clay, thats user error, not a fault of the product.
Clay isn't at all like compound. Compound grinds off high spots. Clay grabs dirt. Compound thins your clear coat every time you use it.. Clay doesn't. Totally different methodologies.
Clay only becomes abrasive if you don't turn it and use it too long. I think the stuff is magical, and one of the best detailing products to come along in ages.
For me, using clay on my car is like using a blow dryer in the tub... not a good idea... But using it on my buddy's car, well that is OK.
Iron remover is not a clay bar substitute. Iron remover use is speculative at best. Yes it turns colors, but it does not remove particles from your paint surface.
Really? Granted my 911 was always pristine clean, I used iron remover on my wifes white BMW and it removed 90% of iron deposits from the paint (it looks like rust embedded into the paint).
The other 10% were bigger patches but it did a decent job of diluting them and then the clay was able to get them out completely. Probably could've come out with another application but I was scared it might be tough on the paint because it smells very strong.
Really? Granted my 911 was always pristine clean, I used iron remover on my wifes white BMW and it removed 90% of iron deposits from the paint (it looks like rust embedded into the paint).
The other 10% were bigger patches but it did a decent job of diluting them and then the clay was able to get them out completely. Probably could've come out with another application but I was scared it might be tough on the paint because it smells very strong.
Iron isn't the only thing that gets embedded into your paint. If you're in the rust belt, iron remover could be helpful. But clay/autoscrub, will remove the same stuff AND the other crap in there.
I've clayed my cars for many years. I do like the Griots Garage clay and their Speed Shine (the only two Griots Garage products I buy - mainly because their products overall I think are just ok but the pricing is just ridiculous. I did try the synthetic clay product. After a half hour with it, it went into the trash.
What a waste, I would have taken it.
Detailers garage is local to me and they have coupons every now and then. I still have traditional clay but use the synthetic clay for in between full details. Sorry it didn't work out for you but it works for me. One of my cars is black so it'll show everything.
The iron is easiest to see in white paint and will look like orange particles. It comes from brake dust and road particulate. Using an Iron dissolving product like IronX helps dissolve the ferrous particles embedded in the paint while the clay bar is mechanically removing whatever is left over, plus the non-ferrous stuff. They can be used together followed by a polish, as clay is a mild abrasive.
The iron is easiest to see in white paint and will look like orange particles. It comes from brake dust and road particulate. Using an Iron dissolving product like IronX helps dissolve the ferrous particles embedded in the paint while the clay bar is mechanically removing whatever is left over, plus the non-ferrous stuff. They can be used together followed by a polish, as clay is a mild abrasive.
Only issue with the IronX is the smell.
And when it comes to automotive product chemistry, I've smelled more than my fair share by a wide margin.
IronX is just God-awful smelling stuff. Gag inducing really.
At least it's good that it does work.
Last edited by Ironman88; Nov 9, 2020 at 04:09 PM.
Reason: I can't spell
It is TGA, the mercaptan sulphur (rotten egg smell) is inherent. Although almost PH neutral, it is a salt of a glycolic acid. Corrosive by nature. I like clay bars, I even use them in the tub.
I am totally against claying due to a scratch I put on the hood of my 2000 Boxster S. I stopped using it. Besides, I could never see a difference when I did use clay. Clay is wet sanding. Clay was developed to remove over-spray in paint shops.
Well, yes and no. It is slightly abrasive, but it is also sticky. Used with a lubricant it will embed the bad stuff in the clay and not scratch the finish. Keep rinsing and turning the clay to prevent issues. But as you did, only after a really good wash. Clay should be used before compounding and polishing. If you can pick it up with clay, you can pick it up in a polishing pad and then swirl it all over the car.
I've been using pinnacle ultra poly clay and mothers clay and been happy with both. Never had any scratches introduced by the clay. I don't use it regularly, but I do find it helps clean off the summer pollen and very fine sap that can carry on the wind returning the car to a smooth feel without damaging or requiring polishing after.
I tried plumbers putty on my wifes Kia (shhhhh....don't tell her). Well it does actually work about the same as a clay bar but requires a bit more rubbing to achieve the same results. There are lots of YouTube videos on it.
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