Hey all, first post. I have a 08 C2 with 115k miles on the clock. A rear clunk sound has started in the suspension. My mechanic checked over everything and it's all visibly/physically tight. That means without one of those porsche ear things or taking it apart, no way to specifically know what part has failed. Of course, we suspect it's the damper or rear strut mount. I've been pricing things out and it looks like two rear OE struts and mounts is sub 1k in parts. I'm happy with the handling and ride of the base C2. I've had Ohlin 2-way adjustable in the past and while they improved handling significantly, they were much firmer from stock. I want to ensure I keep the ride qualiy wife compliant. I'm not really interested in lower end coilovers, so it's pretty much between OE and Ohlin for a 100% street car. If I were to replace all 4 corners with OE, the Ohlin are still about 2x the price. I've been down the modifying route (exhaust, shifter, clutch, wheels, brakes, suspension, tune) and it turned the car into a race car. The 911 has so much aftermarket support that it feels like I should go down that road, but I worry about the slippery slope. Any advice on owners that are running coilovers or decided that keeping it OEM was truly the safest bet out there? I've really enjoyed reading through this forum and everyones hands-on expertise. I figure just learning from everyone will help work through the decision. I actually do want to just replace with Ohlin R&T, but I'm trying to play it safe and hear from others. I've probably read every suspension refresh thread out there and over whelmingly the owners on coilovers are satisfied. One reason I'm leaning towards Ohlin is that my research shows that Bilstein can be bouncy and KW can be hard to adjust. I'm not worried about the stainless steel aspect of KW either, this car wont see salt. I don't think I'd be happy with H&R or BCR either. I considered FortuneAuto and Feal, but I like the idea of a big company with R&D. I'm going to refresh anything that looks worn with OE regardless of my strut/spring choice. I'm not planning on lowering it to the point I'll need to upgrade LCA, etc. to hit alignment specs. Hope this generates some discussion.

Thanks everyone

 

Welcome to your first post. As you know you will be getting a bizillion opinions and since the subject is so "subjective" you will have to decide as actual facts on what is best is impossible. For me 2011 base car, 92,000 perfect miles. Driving and handling excellent. As a suspension refresh, I went with TechArt springs and Bilstein 6 HD structs. This lowered the car just enough to be what I call normal. The old OE structs were not leaking but where nowhere near the stiffness of the new Bilstiens. Nothing else in the suspension had any perceived wear. The result- the ride is now so much better it it hard to believe. the TechArt made by Eibach has made a much more complient ride but now soft. The HD structs play perfectly with these springs. I do all my own work so the cost is only the parts cost. The only thing I have noticed is a tiny bit of a push with this set up, probably due to the progressive spring rate. I am right now in the process of installing the Eibach sway bar kit and links and I am excited to get this buttoned up today and go for a spin. I for one think the TechArt springs are perfect and well worth the price. Let us know what you wind up doing and have fun.

 

This was an option that I was pondering and I'm very happy to have your input. Pairing sport Bilstein shocks with aftermarket lowering springs seemed to be a difficult consideration given the potential mismatch in damper/springs. I'll have to price this out and I'd prefer to refresh front/rear to get the most improvement. I'm sure at 115k miles I'm due for a refresh. I'm sure I'll get a lot of opinions and look forward to all of them.

 

I removed all my suspensions. It started with some weird clunk at the back. I was pretty sure it was the rear strut mount but turned out to be one of the dog bone arm. If you let suspension drop, the system pulled the arm and would not snow any play. I went to 3 different mechanics and none of them can find the issue.
Remove your wheel, put the lug bolts and let it sit on jack stand (of course with e-brake on and front wheel chock); with suspension resting on normal height, start shaking all joints. Put another jack stand under the jacking pint just in case the lug bolt jack stand fail.

I am installing PSS9 with all new suspension arms. If you want a standard suspension (all cntrol arms and struts), you can have my originals. All look great, no rust or leak (TX car originally) and had almost 60K miles on them.

 

Interesting method to find the issue. I'll have to give that a try in the garage. I was immediately tempted by your suspension, if I was doing the install. I'm going to have my mechanic do it, so I wonder if it's counter productive to go used. It does sound like the cost concious method and shouldn't hurt too bad to go that route. Not to mention it'd be wife approved and just about guarantee to fix my clunk since we'd have the rear suspension taken apart to swap. I'll send you a PM.

 

I would say swapping suspension on these cars are not hard at all. 1 weekend would be plenty of time to get it done yourself. Don't get intimidated by the number of parts. All you need is ball joint pusher tool and basic hand tools.
I would say if you swap all your suspensions with mine and buy the 4 rear dog bone arms and rear upper strut mount (if your foam/rubber piece disintegrates), you should not experience any clunking.
I bought new rear strut mounts but I ended up reusing my original as rubber/foam part looks brand new. I have a brand new set and about to return them.