Significant steering vibration between 60-70mph - tie rods?
12-31-2018, 10:43 AM
#16
Took it to another shop who balanced them with a regular spin balancer, problem solved.
The only time a road force might be a benefit, is if you have an out of round wheel. However, I would have the wheel straightened and spin balanced before road force balancing.
And yes I have personally mounted and balanced tires, I know how both systems work.
Maybe gimmick is a poor choice for wording. But I don't believe in it at all
12-31-2018, 10:58 AM
#17
RL Community Team
Rennlist Member
Rennlist Member
2009 C2S 130K miles
Get a road force balance as other suggested. Further, it will most likely be cheaper to have done at a Chevy or Plymouth/Dodge dealer..... why? They now need this sophisticated equipment to support the Corvettes and other high-horse cars they are selling. Further, they need a BIG balancer that can take these big wide wheels we have. Also, these sophisticated road force machines will tell the tech if your wheels are out of round.... bent.
I was out of town visiting family.... small western PA place..... the only place that had a machine big enough to take my wheels was Chrysler/Plymoth/Dodge dealer but they were booked. I found a Chevy dealer over in Ohio that could take me. He noted two of my stupid 19" rims were bent. I tell ya, I really hate these larger rims... just fashion stupid. I have been driving for 40 years and never bent rims until I had these dopey, greasy kid stuff 19" silicone falsies. And get off my lawn!
Road force balance is not a gimmick.... and the machines are really sophisticated and will tell you about the health of the tire and wheel. A good tech will actually, break down the wheel/tire, and shift the position of the tire on the wheels to give you a great balance.... ask them about this.
Oh... tie rods, control rods, sway links.... they usually clunk when going bad.... drive slowly over an undulating surface that twists the car.... you will hear them.
Peace
Bruce in Philly
Get a road force balance as other suggested. Further, it will most likely be cheaper to have done at a Chevy or Plymouth/Dodge dealer..... why? They now need this sophisticated equipment to support the Corvettes and other high-horse cars they are selling. Further, they need a BIG balancer that can take these big wide wheels we have. Also, these sophisticated road force machines will tell the tech if your wheels are out of round.... bent.
I was out of town visiting family.... small western PA place..... the only place that had a machine big enough to take my wheels was Chrysler/Plymoth/Dodge dealer but they were booked. I found a Chevy dealer over in Ohio that could take me. He noted two of my stupid 19" rims were bent. I tell ya, I really hate these larger rims... just fashion stupid. I have been driving for 40 years and never bent rims until I had these dopey, greasy kid stuff 19" silicone falsies. And get off my lawn!
Road force balance is not a gimmick.... and the machines are really sophisticated and will tell you about the health of the tire and wheel. A good tech will actually, break down the wheel/tire, and shift the position of the tire on the wheels to give you a great balance.... ask them about this.
Oh... tie rods, control rods, sway links.... they usually clunk when going bad.... drive slowly over an undulating surface that twists the car.... you will hear them.
Peace
Bruce in Philly
My Champions are actually for sale (NB fitment) if you're interested.
12-31-2018, 11:38 AM
#18
RL Community Team
Rennlist Member
Rennlist Member
I am upset that Porsche provides wheels that do not stand up to "normal" driving. I NEVER had this problem with the Porsche 17" rims on my 2000 Boxster S even after 197K miles of all year driving (swapped for Porsche-rims in winter). So, to prevent rim bending, I must buy rims for the car? If so, and it does appear that way, then Porsche really blew it. To be clear.... it is not just the size of the rim, but the narrowness/thinness of the tire wall that cushions the blow.... the rim strength...... still a Porsche spec... and a very inadequate one.
Peace
Bruce in Philly
Peace
Bruce in Philly
12-31-2018, 11:56 AM
#19
I am upset that Porsche provides wheels that do not stand up to "normal" driving. I NEVER had this problem with the Porsche 17" rims on my 2000 Boxster S even after 197K miles of all year driving (swapped for Porsche-rims in winter). So, to prevent rim bending, I must buy rims for the car? If so, and it does appear that way, then Porsche really blew it. To be clear.... it is not just the size of the rim, but the narrowness/thinness of the tire wall that cushions the blow.... the rim strength...... still a Porsche spec... and a very inadequate one.
Peace
Bruce in Philly
Peace
Bruce in Philly
12-31-2018, 07:49 PM
#20
Totally agree with the idea of wheels being too big. Besides the proclivity to bend, it also means you have smaller sidewalls, reducing comfort. And the bigger rubber is more expensive.
The car I bought has 19" Carrera Classics. I love how they look, in fact they're my favorite factory 996/997 wheels. But I'd have thought them even better if they were 18".
The car I bought has 19" Carrera Classics. I love how they look, in fact they're my favorite factory 996/997 wheels. But I'd have thought them even better if they were 18".
01-01-2019, 02:24 AM
#21
Drifting
In my experience, yes. I have witnessed road force balancing on a friends truck. He paid a lot of money for this service when mounting brand new tires only to come away with vibrations. Took it back twice for more balancing. Tire shop gave up and stated it was a problem with new tires.
Took it to another shop who balanced them with a regular spin balancer, problem solved.
The only time a road force might be a benefit, is if you have an out of round wheel. However, I would have the wheel straightened and spin balanced before road force balancing.
And yes I have personally mounted and balanced tires, I know how both systems work.
Maybe gimmick is a poor choice for wording. But I don't believe in it at all
Took it to another shop who balanced them with a regular spin balancer, problem solved.
The only time a road force might be a benefit, is if you have an out of round wheel. However, I would have the wheel straightened and spin balanced before road force balancing.
And yes I have personally mounted and balanced tires, I know how both systems work.
Maybe gimmick is a poor choice for wording. But I don't believe in it at all
10 times out of 10, a failed balance job is due to the tech, not the machine.
05-28-2019, 07:35 PM
#22
Longer term followup -
The tie rods diminished the shake almost completely in *most* circumstances. But not all. Ambient temps, and seemingly the phase of the moon would impact its appearance. At its worst it was nearly as bad as it was before the tie rods. Other days it was imperceptible. I had the wheels balanced and it didn't help.
I'd had Eibachs on my wishlist since getting the car, and as part of the job I replaced all four LCA's, the front thrust arms, and all four sway links. I found a tear in the passenger side rear lower control arm, middle bushing. ALL of the ball joints were floppy. The two front shock mounts about disintegrated - rubber separated from the bearing, and the cover separated from the bearing race. Whatever component it was, it's now well and truly gone.
Lesson for searchers finding this thread in the future - a number of things can contribute. And when these cars have ~80k miles on them, some of that in bumpy city streets, expect to replace just about every wear part if you want to revitalize the handling.
Job was time consuming but looks and feels good now, and will probably be better after it gets realigned. On the downside, I got a Christmas tree on startup. PSM/ABS and occasional CEL. Code P0503. Either I reconnected an ABS sensor badly, or one of them was damaged during the job.
Job went well,
The tie rods diminished the shake almost completely in *most* circumstances. But not all. Ambient temps, and seemingly the phase of the moon would impact its appearance. At its worst it was nearly as bad as it was before the tie rods. Other days it was imperceptible. I had the wheels balanced and it didn't help.
I'd had Eibachs on my wishlist since getting the car, and as part of the job I replaced all four LCA's, the front thrust arms, and all four sway links. I found a tear in the passenger side rear lower control arm, middle bushing. ALL of the ball joints were floppy. The two front shock mounts about disintegrated - rubber separated from the bearing, and the cover separated from the bearing race. Whatever component it was, it's now well and truly gone.
Lesson for searchers finding this thread in the future - a number of things can contribute. And when these cars have ~80k miles on them, some of that in bumpy city streets, expect to replace just about every wear part if you want to revitalize the handling.
Job was time consuming but looks and feels good now, and will probably be better after it gets realigned. On the downside, I got a Christmas tree on startup. PSM/ABS and occasional CEL. Code P0503. Either I reconnected an ABS sensor badly, or one of them was damaged during the job.
Job went well,