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P0011 “Camshaft Timing A Bank 1 Timing Advanced To Far”

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Old 11-23-2018, 11:42 PM
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bgoetz
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Default P0011 “Camshaft Timing A Bank 1 Timing Advanced To Far”

Anyone have any experience with this code? It showed up not as a CEL but in the background during my PPI. We swapped sensors and the seller was nice enough to allow me to drive it for a week. It never came back so we figured it was a bad connection that was remedied when we disconnected and reconnected. We even logged cam deviation and everything looked good.

FFWD to today and I threw the same P0011 CEL. Car runs fine, if I were to say any issue it might be very slight hesitation at 2500 rpm (the same RPM) it logged the code. From what I have read it seems it could be:

1.) Variocam Actuator Solenoid ($300 part and I think easy DIY)

2.) The Actuators themselves ($450 part I think engine maybe has to come out)

3.) Some say cam deviation can be an IMS symptom (we all know what that means)

Coincidentally, I was actually scheduling a clutch, IMS, and RMS because I spent too much time on this forum. But now I think this needs diagnosed first because if the engine has to come out, I am guessing that would make that work a bit easier. Although given that it isn’t dramatic I lean more towards the solenoid, I would think think if it were the actuator it would be more significant of an issue.

The Indy I was taking it to is pretty reputable, so I am sure he will have good advice, but wanted to see if anyone has been down this road. Searching doesn’t turn up but a couple threads and what seems to be a similar issue in the 991s

Last edited by bgoetz; 11-23-2018 at 11:59 PM.
Old 11-24-2018, 09:09 AM
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Bruce In Philly
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What year and model?

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Old 11-24-2018, 09:28 AM
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Petza914
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I would start with the Cam Position Sensor on the bank the throwing the codes. What are the camshaft deviation readings when it's not running right and throwing the code.
Old 11-24-2018, 09:38 AM
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bgoetz
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Originally Posted by Petza914
I would start with the Cam Position Sensor on the bank the throwing the codes. What are the camshaft deviation readings when it's not running right and throwing the code.
I am not sure, I don’t have a Durametric. When we logged they were all less than 1. I don’t think it can be the sensor though, we swapped sides when it was just showing in the background (no CEL). It threw the CEL on the same side, so that eliminates the sensor. Plus I think the sensor has to be working if it is detecting the issue. I really think my choices are solenoid or actuator.

It is an early 05 C2S

Last edited by bgoetz; 11-24-2018 at 03:05 PM.
Old 11-24-2018, 09:54 AM
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I guess my followup would be is there a way to distinguish between the solenoids or actuators without buying the solenoid and seeing if it goes away?
Old 11-24-2018, 09:57 AM
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If both values were close and neither showing zeros, and swapping them did nothing, then you're correct - it's not the cps and likely the solenoid or actuator
Old 11-24-2018, 09:59 AM
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2009 C2S 129K miles

I've been looking into replacing my solenoids..... I just forgot to do it my last plug change. But I am not getting the code. Read about it here:

https://rennlist.com/forums/997-foru...at-3k-rpm.html

May or may not be related. I still have the hesitation and I've owned the car for 100K miles. Dealer back, 100K miles ago went for a drive with me... tech felt it, said "keep an eye on it". That was it.

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Old 11-24-2018, 10:44 AM
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I actually came across your thread, which made me realize I was feeling the same thing at times. I just thought it was the way these cars are mapped from the factory.

The crappy part is that now I don’t want to do the clutch/IMS until I get this sorted and it took a while for this to show back up. I just think it would have to be cheaper to do it all at once should it be worse case and actually be the actuator. Short of tossing on a new solenoid and driving it for a few hundred miles I can’t see a better path, but maybe my Indy will have advice.

Bruce is there a DIY for the solenoid? Admittedly I haven’t even looked to see where it is located
Old 11-24-2018, 11:10 AM
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Originally Posted by bgoetz
Bruce is there a DIY for the solenoid? Admittedly I haven’t even looked to see where it is located
The part numbers may be different for you car... for the 9A1 997.2, the part "11" number is: 9a1 105 308 03 (appears to have 1 revision) and runs about $171 each. The one on the top of the engine, the actual valve, looks like you have to pull the entire top crap off.... maybe taking the air plenum, throttle body etc will get you there but I am not at all sure. The part number for that "13" is 9A110530404 (appears to have 4 revisions) and runs about $219 ea. I have a service manual that shows the solenoid (the one between the plugs) and it shows it is a simple plug and play just like a coil pack... have to remove the infrastructure just like a plug job. It does say you have to grease the O ring with Kluber Syntheso Glep .

My active imagination thinks there may be some debris from manufacture slowing the flow of oil in there. Who the f knows? Jeff at Renntech thought it was a "lazy actuator". My Ford engineer friend thought it is a classic software problem.

Maybe I will do this one when I have a rainy weekend or something. Let us know if you decide to do this work. I can kick myself that I forgot to do this when I did my last plug change.

BUT: I am NOT getting a code thrown (I have a Durametric)... so if I was you, I would go after that camshaft sensor as Mr Petza noted.

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Old 11-24-2018, 12:08 PM
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If I look on Pelican it seems there is more to the system than just the solenoids & actuators, a valve and a screen show up when I look for an 05 C2S. I am really going to have to get a good understanding of this system before I do anything either that or pay to have it figured out. In my S2k there is the Vtec solenoid which is super easy and there is a screen as well. The screen tends to get clogged on the S2k. I might need to invest in a manual for this car so I can learn more about it.

Old 11-24-2018, 12:39 PM
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So from looking here there are:

https://www.porsche.com/all/media/pd...97_KATALOG.pdf

2 actuator valves, 2 actuators, 2 screens, and 2 adjusters (one on each bank). It seems the valves and actuators are pretty easy to get at while the adjuster would require engine removal. The screen might be a decent place to start though, it would be free to clean it. From there I don’t know if it would be the valve or the actuator, if it isn’t either of those then I guess that would leave the adjuster.
Old 11-24-2018, 03:08 PM
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So more searching and it seems the valves control high and low lift, while the actuator adjusts, so it seems most likely the actuator. It seems these can simply be unbolted and pulled out then cleaned, but not being familiar with this car I am a bit hesitant to give it a try.
Old 11-24-2018, 03:18 PM
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Interesting..... your M97 engine is the same but different than the 9A1. Both the actuator valve and solenoid are in-line with the plugs where the valve is on the top of my 9A1. Also, the 9A1 does not have an oil filter screen. As I noted, the manual I have denotes the solenoid is a simple pull out and push in. I don;t have the instructions for the other unit.

Good luck, let us know how it goes!

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Old 11-26-2018, 03:44 PM
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Your M97 engine has the same variocam+ design of the M96. The solenoid in question (the one for timing and not valve lift) should be this one. Use the coupon code "FRI20" (ending today) to get additional 20% off...to about $140-ish.
Perhaps try to swap between the two banks first. If that fixes your problem you can return the unused new part. If swapping doesn't work, it's possible you have some issues with the vane-type phase adjustor on the intake cam.

Just two bolts holding each solenoid. Kinda like changing plugs but easier.

Old 11-26-2018, 04:32 PM
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Originally Posted by Ahsai
Your M97 engine has the same variocam+ design of the M96. The solenoid in question (the one for timing and not valve lift) should be this one. Use the coupon code "FRI20" (ending today) to get additional 20% off...to about $140-ish.
Perhaps try to swap between the two banks first. If that fixes your problem you can return the unused new part. If swapping doesn't work, it's possible you have some issues with the vane-type phase adjustor on the intake cam.

Just two bolts holding each solenoid. Kinda like changing plugs but easier.

Awesome, thanks! The one that you linked says sensor, but in the description it indicates solenoid, just to confirm that is the solenoid and not the cam position sensor?


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