Aftermarket lower control arms......guidance needed!
#1
Three Wheelin'
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Looking at replacing all. OE as we know $500 a corner. What about Meyle, TRW, Uro, Beck-Arnley, etc? If you have used them please advise. The difference in replacing 4 with aftermarket at 100-300$ a corner versus spending $1k on the fronts alone......etc. Non-track usage. Non adjustable.
Last edited by ALEV8; 04-17-2018 at 08:38 PM.
#2
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If you are talking about adjustable non cup version LCAs then the choice is rather small OEM 996 or 997 GT3 equivalents or RSS. I never heard of anything else running on the track. You only need 2 fronts which are about $700-950 here on the forum or $1.2k new. No need for rear. For stock non-adjustable OEM there are many more options.
#3
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I literally just received some rear uppers that I ordered, left and right side. They are Meyle and they were apprx. $60 a piece from Advance. Upon inspection, they look identical to stock. I plan to swap them in this weekend.
#4
Three Wheelin'
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If you are talking about adjustable non cup version LCAs then the choice is rather small OEM 996 or 997 GT3 equivalents or RSS. I never heard of anything else running on the track. You only need 2 fronts which are about $700-950 here on the forum or $1.2k new. No need for rear. For stock non-adjustable OEM there are many more options.
To clarify, non-track usage. Just need a new suspension after 113k mi on this C4. Stock LCA configuration, non-adjustable. Been sitting on the struts and lowering springs a while. Mights as well look at LCAs too.
Last edited by ALEV8; 04-17-2018 at 08:40 PM.
#5
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I installed Meyle control arms on my 996 3 years ago and no issue. Very happy with the quality.
I had Vertex control arms on my boxster before and they make loud noise from balljoints when wet, I personally don't recommend Vertex control arm.
I had Vertex control arms on my boxster before and they make loud noise from balljoints when wet, I personally don't recommend Vertex control arm.
#6
Three Wheelin'
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I’m going to grab the Meyle arms. They make Benz suspension parts too and I used those previously. I should probably get 4 and not just fronts but all four corners.
#7
RL Community Team
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Regarding replacing everything..... or more than is neccessary..... Let us know how it worked out for you. For me, I would only replace them if they clunked or there were other obvious reasons.... I saw tearing in the center bushing on my rear lower arm on my 2009 C2S when I did shocks, and then the front-back, lateral arms in the rear of my Boxster required replacing when at 100 MPH, I noticed a slight steering change when I applied and removed the gas.... one of the rear wheels was changing toe ever so slightly. But generally, these things clunk when bad.
I find it interesting how engineering (or whatever) has changed .... when I was young, you knew you needed ball joints when the inside tread of tires wore out..... if you were really cheap and lazy like I was, then you got he clunking and then had a really big bill. My old Buick Skylark went through many ball joints in its 100K mile life (it started to eject parts and drive crooked at around 75K)..... I am convinced GM did this to throw work at their dealers and parts suppliers.
Peace
Bruce in Philly
Last edited by Bruce In Philly; 04-19-2018 at 10:58 AM.
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#8
Three Wheelin'
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I’m assuming fronts are done at 113k mi and everything will be unbuttoned at this point just to do shocks/springs, but no clunking whatsoever and our roads are brutal here in Dallas near downtown. As horrific as the roads are I’d hear clunks instantly plus the 19” wheels don’t help at all with the original suspension still in the car AFAIK.
#9
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I’m assuming fronts are done at 113k mi and everything will be unbuttoned at this point just to do shocks/springs, but no clunking whatsoever and our roads are brutal here in Dallas near downtown. As horrific as the roads are I’d hear clunks instantly plus the 19” wheels don’t help at all with the original suspension still in the car AFAIK.
Peace
Bruce in Philly