Help-Engine lid will not open
#1
Help-Engine lid will not open
I have a 2005 C2. I can hear the engine compartment release motor working. But the lid will not pop open. I have wiggled, pulled, pressed down, pulled up.
I found the emergency cable for the release and pulled and pulled until the cable broke.
I was able to get the spoiler off and the fan un bolted from the outside.
Anyone know how to open the lid short of cutting the deck lid into pieces?
John
I found the emergency cable for the release and pulled and pulled until the cable broke.
I was able to get the spoiler off and the fan un bolted from the outside.
Anyone know how to open the lid short of cutting the deck lid into pieces?
John
#2
Wow. What a nightmare. So you are between going to the dealer or finding a used decklid on Ebay...dealer might be the cheaper option. Or........
If it was a super high end car.....I would get a cheepo bore scope from Harbor Freight and a long pick. Once the 'pop up spoiler' is off, you should have enough room to pop the lock with the pick and bore scope.
If it was a super high end car.....I would get a cheepo bore scope from Harbor Freight and a long pick. Once the 'pop up spoiler' is off, you should have enough room to pop the lock with the pick and bore scope.
#3
#4
#5
Does anyone know if the hook (the hook is what I am calling the part that moves inside the mechanism) goes over (or over and around) the latch (the “latch" is what I am calling the D shaped portion that is attached to the deck lid)? Meaning if I get a pick from the back side can I just push the latch to the driver’s side? Or is it more like a door latch that goes over and then down around the D shaped latch?
I know the hook goes from the drivers side to the passengers side. That means I need to “pick” the hook and push it to the drivers side. Is this even possible? Will the mechanism even allow this to be pushed, or is it “pick” proof?
I know the hook goes from the drivers side to the passengers side. That means I need to “pick” the hook and push it to the drivers side. Is this even possible? Will the mechanism even allow this to be pushed, or is it “pick” proof?
#6
Rennlist Member
The hook part goes overcenter and surrounds the latch part attached to the decklid. It does so with a fair amount of force - I can’t see how you can pick it free.
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#8
Update: We got it open! 18 hours later.
1. The latch just broke. I will take it apart and see what happened but looks like it just broke internally.
2. The manual release cable was not attached when we pulled on it. The cable came out under the tail light about 2 feet when we started to pull on it. So the cable was not attached to the release mechanism. I did not know there was a manual release until this started so never checked it.
Here is what we did.
1. We wedged several plastic trim tools under the deck lid to create enough space to get a reciprocating saw (sawzall) with a metal blade on the aft pin (closest to the bumper) we tapped off the car and used a tape covered piece of thin aluminum to protect the bumper. It was really not too bad to cut. Then we tried to bend the hook by lifting on the lid, we thought with one side cut we could bend it. It will not bend.
2. We pried up between the hook where we cut it and made a little more space to get the blade to the front side of the hook.
3. We have a little damage on the air box but not bad. The lid and the bumper made it through without a scratch.
Lesson learned.
1. Make sure you know how to get to the manual release.
2. Make sure you inspect and exercise the cable every time you open the deck lid.
3. I am going to reroute the cable to a much better place, under the tail light is not a great place for it.
Thanks everyone,
John
1. The latch just broke. I will take it apart and see what happened but looks like it just broke internally.
2. The manual release cable was not attached when we pulled on it. The cable came out under the tail light about 2 feet when we started to pull on it. So the cable was not attached to the release mechanism. I did not know there was a manual release until this started so never checked it.
Here is what we did.
1. We wedged several plastic trim tools under the deck lid to create enough space to get a reciprocating saw (sawzall) with a metal blade on the aft pin (closest to the bumper) we tapped off the car and used a tape covered piece of thin aluminum to protect the bumper. It was really not too bad to cut. Then we tried to bend the hook by lifting on the lid, we thought with one side cut we could bend it. It will not bend.
2. We pried up between the hook where we cut it and made a little more space to get the blade to the front side of the hook.
3. We have a little damage on the air box but not bad. The lid and the bumper made it through without a scratch.
Lesson learned.
1. Make sure you know how to get to the manual release.
2. Make sure you inspect and exercise the cable every time you open the deck lid.
3. I am going to reroute the cable to a much better place, under the tail light is not a great place for it.
Thanks everyone,
John
#9
Nordschleife Master
#10
Rennlist Member
You can relocate the cable looped end to behind the license plate and tape it in place with plastic packing tape. It works fine from this angle when you pull on it. This way all you need is a Phillips head screwdriver to take the license plate off. I agree and am not a fan of the under the tail light location and using a coat hangar to catch the loop.
#11
Good for you!!!!! I have a sliding scale of tenderness with my brood. If I can replace a part for cheap.....it gets a bigger hammer. If everything is made of gold, the scalpel comes out. Range Rover gets the hammer, Ferrari gets the scalpel. 997 gets a ride to my friend who is a senior tech at a large Pcar dealership. He takes care of her gratis plus the cost of parts.