Originally Posted by mulsanne79
I just sold an 01 996TT, and 3 weeks later the spoiler stopped working on my customer's car. The cylinders are leaking and the wing won't go up.
My customer did some research and found two different fixes on ebay. Mechanical system that is $150, and an electrical system that is $1500. He is a hands on type of a guy and will do the work himself.
Any idea which one is the correct one/better one for the fix?
Also, if he leaves the spoiler the way it is (it being down) is there a danger for him driving the car? Supposedly the rear suspension gets really light at higher speeds.
Any help/advice would be appreciated.
there is no "danger" from driving without "plumage" period. even less so given one assumes a reasonable speed limit on streets. that said, its there to create downforce, so optimally having it "work" as intended is best. alternately the fixed wing kit ( 150 on eBay you mentioned ) is ok, or a fixed wing solution: eg gt2/3/aerokit or dave's rennkit e-ram kit - a terrific aftermarket; an electrically operated solution - that should well stand the test of time is a more permanent if not "pricier" ( relative ) option. that is probably the 1500$ "electric" option you've referenced. which is also, not "pricier" than a gt2/3 wing per se..( just "pricier" than a can of pentosin ) which will more often than not, bring the functionality back to life.
.. so then, there is this: a can of pentosin ch11s hydraulic fluid ( factory fill ) and some patience/diy skills + combined with this this step by step will bring them back to life. provided all the innards are still fully operable the seals or pump are not toast.
here you go:
here's the re-bleed procedure for the umpteenth time. for anyone with skill and patience lol
1. Open rear deck-lid with spoiler in down position
2. Put towels/plastic over the engine to keep fluids from dripping onto engine or body parts.
3. Remove approx. one dozen bolts that retain shroud/fan to deck-lid
4. Loosen and remove 4 retaining acorn style nuts that hold pump onto shroud
5. Cut tie wraps that retain electrical wires and hydralic lines so pump can be removed
6. Lift pump off shroud, loosen and remove banjo fittings on driver's side of pump watch for fluid to leak out and catch in a paper towel or rag. I held pump with channel locks for a good hold while loosening
7. Remove the positiive and negative wires on the opposite end of the pump.
8. Unplug sensors on passenger side ram carefully as they are sensitive. They are under a plastic cover that pulls off
9. Turn pump upside down in proper waste recepticle to empty the fluid remaining
10. With 12 volt power source, connect positive and negative to pump connectors. You will feel the torque and hear the pump motor turning, have a towel ready to catch any remaining fluids
11. With pump in hand, slowly add fluid. The Lucas product has a snout that you can cut and place into recpticle. This took approx. 20 minutes of adding, waiting for it to seep into pump, add more, wait, add more, etc...until bubbles stop coming up. Pump should then be full
12. Carefully attach banjo fittings with pump held upright. A small amount of fluid will seep when attaching banjo bolts
13. Torque the banjo bolts snug
14. Place pump onto shroud, tighten acorn nuts and connect wires
15. Connect sensors to ram (I used a tie wrap to hold sensors in place)
16. Place shroud in position on deck lid and snug up the dozen bolts
17. Tie wrap the electrical wires to the shroud
18. Actuate spoiler from dash with key on to see if you get the warning light
( add: the mention of "lucas" is a reference to the notion of using a 50/50 mix of pentosin and "lucas stop leak". either way, it'll work. ( when it does lol )