Tune (Cobb AP) impact on high mileage engine
#1
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My question is, will a [Cobb] tune cause noticeable additional wear on the engine - specifically in a high mileage car??
I have about 95k miles on my car, and while I like the additional power and taking full advantage of 94oct and high flow exhaust (SpeedTech 3.0"), I'd love to be one of those 996TTs that makes it into the 200k mile range one day...
Before putting my car away at the beginning of the winter I had picked up a Cobb AP and flashed the ECU with the Stage II 93oct (94 is readily accessible where I live). The power improvement was noticeable, although not earth shattering. Wondering if I should flash back to stock or if I shouldn't be concerned.
I have about 95k miles on my car, and while I like the additional power and taking full advantage of 94oct and high flow exhaust (SpeedTech 3.0"), I'd love to be one of those 996TTs that makes it into the 200k mile range one day...
Before putting my car away at the beginning of the winter I had picked up a Cobb AP and flashed the ECU with the Stage II 93oct (94 is readily accessible where I live). The power improvement was noticeable, although not earth shattering. Wondering if I should flash back to stock or if I shouldn't be concerned.
#3
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I'm contemplating a tune myself, since I just did a dyno day and came up with 404 bhp (487hp @ crank ?) and would like to see if I can get another 100 hp out of the engine. The place that did the dyno said new clutch and coils would be recommended as part of the mods.
I hear the turbo's engine is "bulletproof", and that boosting HP isn't a big deal. I'd like to hear from people who have owned the car longer though, too...
I hear the turbo's engine is "bulletproof", and that boosting HP isn't a big deal. I'd like to hear from people who have owned the car longer though, too...
#4
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I know, I'm full of noob questions, but why does the additional power necessarily mean that the clutch will wear faster?
Assuming the clutch is being properly used and isn't having unnecessary additional wear due to driving style, shouldn't the additional power only result in a negligible amount of additional wear?
Assuming the clutch is being properly used and isn't having unnecessary additional wear due to driving style, shouldn't the additional power only result in a negligible amount of additional wear?
#5
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for what it's worth... I've had the EVOMS GT700 kit on my car (700 hp) for 50k miles (110k miles total on the car now) and it's still running strong. I have no doubt that the engine would last longer with stock power levels... but for now all is well with the bratwurst burner.
#6
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I know, I'm full of noob questions, but why does the additional power necessarily mean that the clutch will wear faster?
Assuming the clutch is being properly used and isn't having unnecessary additional wear due to driving style, shouldn't the additional power only result in a negligible amount of additional wear?
Assuming the clutch is being properly used and isn't having unnecessary additional wear due to driving style, shouldn't the additional power only result in a negligible amount of additional wear?
No more torque more power exceeds the clutches clamping force!
#7
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Hey guys. The Cobb tuner comes with several maps/stages depending on your upgrades. These cars have proven to be quite stout and upgrade well even into the 600-700hp range. I have one friend with 155k miles on a GT700 kit (since 30k). Eats water pumps haha but that's about it (random and not related). Good maintenance and tuning she can actually run more efficiently than stock. Especially at stage 2 with exhaust and tune. Feel free to reach out for member pricing and full support from Cobb's largest and proudest dealer anytime!
As for the clutch they hold well until they are done or worn out unless you push it too hard with aggressive tuning and driving. Average condition clutches have held 550+ hp for a long time.
Hope that helps!
As for the clutch they hold well until they are done or worn out unless you push it too hard with aggressive tuning and driving. Average condition clutches have held 550+ hp for a long time.
Hope that helps!
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#9
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We have a bunch of >600hp kits out there that have been on cars for more than 10 years now, and we also tear down and rebuild lots of engines, so we have a pretty good scope on how load affects wear on these.
The most common issues with high mileage engines are fairly basic--vacuum and boost leaks due to vacuum lines popping off, check valves failing, diverter valves leaking, F-hoses tearing, spark plugs and ignition coils wearing out, and wear/tear/improper maintenance techniques. This is all standard stuff that really affects cars whether they're stock or lightly modified like a Stage 2 tune+exhaust car is.
Going a little deeper, past 60-70k miles it's common for the valve guides and stem seals to begin to wear, causing oil consumption to increase. Sometimes you'll see this in more frequent smoking on start up, but it's often fairly uh...transparent, I guess. Oil consumption will go from a qt every 2-3k+ miles to every 1000-1500mi, and if you pull the heads apart the guides measure out of spec. I'm not aware of any motors actually coming apart because of this, but it is a little abnormal. Higher EGTs and higher RPM use from a modified car will cause this wear to be greater than stock.
Aside from that, there is some wear that commonly happens with the gearbox--synchros and occasionally bearings and gears wearing, moreso if they're abused and fluid isn't changed on schedule.
The bottom ends seem to be really solid. Cylinder and ring wear is low, as is bearing wear. Rods will only go if something stupid happens--too much power or detonation. Sometimes guides, chains, and lifters will wear, but maintenance and overrev history have more to do with those 'failures' than average use.
Long story short, if you take good care of your car and previous owners have done the same, I wouldn't be afraid of modifying it and driving it hard at 95k miles.
Sam
The most common issues with high mileage engines are fairly basic--vacuum and boost leaks due to vacuum lines popping off, check valves failing, diverter valves leaking, F-hoses tearing, spark plugs and ignition coils wearing out, and wear/tear/improper maintenance techniques. This is all standard stuff that really affects cars whether they're stock or lightly modified like a Stage 2 tune+exhaust car is.
Going a little deeper, past 60-70k miles it's common for the valve guides and stem seals to begin to wear, causing oil consumption to increase. Sometimes you'll see this in more frequent smoking on start up, but it's often fairly uh...transparent, I guess. Oil consumption will go from a qt every 2-3k+ miles to every 1000-1500mi, and if you pull the heads apart the guides measure out of spec. I'm not aware of any motors actually coming apart because of this, but it is a little abnormal. Higher EGTs and higher RPM use from a modified car will cause this wear to be greater than stock.
Aside from that, there is some wear that commonly happens with the gearbox--synchros and occasionally bearings and gears wearing, moreso if they're abused and fluid isn't changed on schedule.
The bottom ends seem to be really solid. Cylinder and ring wear is low, as is bearing wear. Rods will only go if something stupid happens--too much power or detonation. Sometimes guides, chains, and lifters will wear, but maintenance and overrev history have more to do with those 'failures' than average use.
Long story short, if you take good care of your car and previous owners have done the same, I wouldn't be afraid of modifying it and driving it hard at 95k miles.
Sam
#11
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i've been running this 2nd tt that's been tuned for years w hybrid turbos and bolt on's at 140k combo track canyon city miles and it's going to continue to run as is, for many years still. it's not out to pasture yet, or in need of internal work.
as others have noted a 1000 times. the cars are de-tuned from the factory and the easily obtained sweet spot is the 550/600 that with ( obviously ) tune and a few upgraded parts, and they'll run virtually trouble free for years.
if the car f*cks up? look first to the owner lol
oh yeah, i blew the first one up.. but it wasn't my fault
as others have noted a 1000 times. the cars are de-tuned from the factory and the easily obtained sweet spot is the 550/600 that with ( obviously ) tune and a few upgraded parts, and they'll run virtually trouble free for years.
if the car f*cks up? look first to the owner lol
oh yeah, i blew the first one up.. but it wasn't my fault
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#12
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I'll put it this was. Local car to me just sold. 590k miles on the car. Upgraded turbos running 550whp for the majority of the 590k miles. Had the original motor and trans (clutch had been upgraded).
If it's a good time and well maintained car, you won't have a problem.
If it's a good time and well maintained car, you won't have a problem.
#13
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if I remember correctly that 590k only 'recently' had the turbos upgraded as the vehicle was previously owned by an (now) older couple who did multiple road trips to get dinner ... via Panamera Magazine.
Then a Porsche employee bought the car off them and made those modifications? (or subsequent owner after the couple)
Not to detract, but I think this must have been the same car.
Then a Porsche employee bought the car off them and made those modifications? (or subsequent owner after the couple)
Not to detract, but I think this must have been the same car.
#14
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Why is it when you ask a tuner that writes the 'tune' program from scratch about a Cobb off the shelf tune, they say its junk.
They then add how in the heck can one tune work for so many different cars with different milage.
You ask a Cobb vendor about the Cobb tune and they tell you that these cars dont need a tune written from scratch for each carr.
UMW + Markski vs Cobb
whom do you believe????
They then add how in the heck can one tune work for so many different cars with different milage.
You ask a Cobb vendor about the Cobb tune and they tell you that these cars dont need a tune written from scratch for each carr.
UMW + Markski vs Cobb
whom do you believe????
#15
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It's a big jump from stock and definitely worth doing, but the stock exhaust and intake choke things up and make it difficult to safely make power on pump gas.
Sam