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IMHO, just go 997GT stuff....if your spending the funds on uprights/coilovers....go latest
simpler sway bar setup...better geometry
if you want 996 stuff, want my full 6T2 Ohlins/suspension/brakes setup?
7 front upright are 1300 each, rears are 500 each, rear subframes 1300 each, and 200 for cross member, 400 rear sway, 200 drop links, etc. He'd need to spend $6000 extra to go 997 instead of 996.. I don't think he wants to spend that much. I was gonna do it but I would most likely also need to get sets of new wheels which would add 10K to the bill.
IMHO, just go 997GT stuff....if your spending the funds on uprights/coilovers....go latest
simpler sway bar setup...better geometry
if you want 996 stuff, want my full 6T2 Ohlins/suspension/brakes setup?
Did you end up going with 997 stuff or are you wanting to?
I priced this out too and the uprights were considerably more, along with everything listed by powdrhound.
unfortunately not, 996tt shocks are bigger body then GT2 uprights allow...sleeves allow you to do the opposite conversion (which I'm doing to my dads 6tt)
kind of surprised you haven't yet John, but money is money!
just wanting to Mark, 997's have better bump steer geometry
I might at some point but I'd need to verify that my wheel offset would still work with the 997 uprights. I have $15K+ worth of wheels and they would need to work. I'm also not 100% sure that the 997 rear subframes are a direct bolt on. Honestly, I don't think there is that much of a benefit with the 997 parts for me over the the suspension I'm currently running. Bump steer is not really much of an issue with my spring rates and both the front and rear RSR toe arms have bump steer correction. My roll centers are slightly lower with the RSR LCA because they have longer trunnion pins over the regular LCAs. Looking at the RSR PET, I just found out PMNA makes another version of the trunnion pin that is another 5mm longer than the one I'm running which would further lower the roll centers. I will probably swap them out on all 4 corners prior to the next alignment.
Made a few phone calls today to confirm pricing, thanks again everyone for the help.
In reviewing the costs with completing the conversion the entry point is pretty steep, about $2k in hardware and another $4k for proper coilovers and such.
The coilovers really added a new element as proper valving, spring rates, and adjustability can't really be achieved for much less than that. If you're doing it, might as well go all in.
Powdrhound - Let me know if and when you decide to part with those JRZs.
Appreciate the great information from everyone so I wasn't walking into this one blindly. I've done everything else imaginable to my car already and I have no doubts I'll end up pulling the trigger at some point. I'll wait until I've been out to a few track days this season to make the call.
i reached much the same conclusion, after a brief cost benefit analysis. i'd have long ago pulled the trigger on the gt3 parts at my disposal, had i been able to pinpoint something significant lacking in my setup based upon my daily usage. but i just don't see it.
The 996.2GT3 upright are shared with the 996GT2 and 996.2Cup. If I recall the 996.1Cup has older style uprights but don't quote me on that. Boxster and C2 have different uprights with smaller bearings and different geometry. The 997Cup stuff is good with better geometry but you will need to change out all of the rear suspension to match the different roll centers.
To make things as painless as possible, this is the conversion kit you will need. It includes the uprights, bearing, bearing cover bolts, tension bolts, heat shields, brake line brackets, and ABS sensor heat shields. The part numbers are:
996 GT3 cup uprights: 996.341.157.91 and 996.341.158.91
Front bearings (2x): 999.053.054.06
Front rotor heatshields: 996.351.801.30 and 996.351.802.30
ABS sensor heatshields: 996.606.235.91 and 996.606.236.91
Cover bolts (8x): 999.217.042.09
Brake line brackets: 996.355.501.06 and 996.355.502.06
Tension bolts (2x): 996.341.131.04
You will need different brake rotors as the offset on the TT 350 rotors is 1.5mm different. You need GT2/3 specific brake rotors.
RL is truly an amazing place where people share this wealth of info. Personally I don’t think I would be able to get all this information on my own versus hitting a search button.
I am looking to complete this set up. I am having trouble finding the wheel uprights. Probably be a slow project and gather everything but this would really make things come together. Pwdrhound where do u get those PMNA parts? Any help on sourcing will be appreciated.
01-23-2017, 10:15 AM
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